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Bad news from the mechanic x)

wallew

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It means about $500 ish for a new pump and what ever he will charge you to put it in.

Think of it like your 'carb' has gone south on a really old gas truck. Only the IP is the part that times and delivers the fuel to the correct cylinder.

Not too bad, because once it's replaced, it should be good for quite a while.

How many miles showing on your truck?
 

zout

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He may not be very talkative - but your question is more extremely vague.

Or is this like one of them guessing games where I am to be physic and know what was wrong with the vehicle in the first place - these are a host of trouble shooting proceedures that need to be laid out here for someone to answer your question.

Did you drive it into the shop ?
Was the unit towed to a shop because of ?????
 

Keith_J

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Well, since you have it at the mechanic, I suppose DIY isn't your option. Too bad because they are not all that complex. Nor are they easy to overhaul yourself.

As long as you don't mess with the torque screw which limits maximum fuel injected per stroke, there is no need for calibration after overhaul.

The timing advance mechanism probably is stuck from varnish/debris. Many repairs can be done without pulling.

Stanadyne DB2 teardown manual in here.
 

FridgeBrilliance

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Looks like it will become DIY. Just drove it home. All the injectors tested bad as well. I can't afforf what they want in labor by a long shot. So I am going to order up some injectors and a pump and give it a shot, see if maybe I can get some help, as I am not a mechanical guy. Capable for sure, but between here, my tools, and the TM's I should be able to make this happen.
 

hndrsonj

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So you just drove it home and it has ALL bad injectors and a pump? What's it doing? Doesn't seem remotely right.
 

doghead

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How do you know it has bad injectors? Did they remove them all and test them? If so, there would have been no additional labor to install new ones(they had to put the old ones back in).
 

FridgeBrilliance

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Just runs like utter ****. My first diesel. I wouldn't have known. Quotes from the shop: "Removed noisy injectors #2 and #4, bad spary patterns and and low pressures. Compression test on cyl #2, #4, and #6, 380/420/400. This tells us that most likely other injectors are bad. Suggest all injectors be replaced. Inj. pump adv pist. not working. Replace or retime pump. Noise under cover cyl.#4 either the bad injector or worn rocker".

They couldn't find anything else wrong with the entire vehicle besides leaky oil cooler line and leaky transfer case.
 

rickf

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Get another opinion, Way too many things going on there! These things are known for lifters going bad and tapping and I am wondering if that may be your issue. A lot cheaper than a pump. Not a whole lot of shops have the equipment to test injectors, is this a large diesel repair place? Or a local small shop? When it is first started is the motor noticeably louder? as in clatters more? If so then the timing advance is working. I am not talking about high idle, when the high idle is activated so is the timing advance. Be sure NOT to bend any of the injection lines or that could give you a timing knock that sounds just like a rod knock. Make sure all of the isolators are in place holding the injector lines.

Rick

P.S. I don't understand how they come up with bad injectors because of the compression readings. I do not see anything wrong with those readings anyway.
 
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FridgeBrilliance

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Get another opinion, Way too many things going on there! These things are known for lifters going bad and tapping and I am wondering if that may be your issue. A lot cheaper than a pump. Not a whole lot of shops have the equipment to test injectors, is this a large diesel repair place? Or a local small shop? When it is first started is the motor noticeably louder? as in clatters more? If so then the timing advance is working. I am not talking about high idle, when the high idle is activated so is the timing advance. Be sure NOT to bend any of the injection lines or that could give you a timing knock that sounds just like a rod knock. Make sure all of the isolators are in place holding the injector lines.

Rick
It doesn't sound anything like a gasser with tapping lifters. On start it doesn't sound any different than after it has been running for a while. The shop is diesel specific, even big rigs and marine stuff, they have a second shop in the same business that does nothing but fuel injection work, even customizing pumps for the hot rod crowd. I will take a look at the injection lines for any wierdness tonight. Thanks!
 

FridgeBrilliance

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Thanks twice rick. On closer inspection the lines do look to be tweaked, and they have scale all over them. It actually looks like one of them was cut there is just a flimsy looking tube attached, though this might be normal. I will try to get some pictures soon. Also, three of the isolators are bent up and have the rubber missing. More for the list!
 

rickf

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In that case they may very well have the stuff to test the injectors BUT, I would still get a second opinion from a local shop. Remember, this is the same vehicle as the civvie Chevy trucks with the 6.2 diesel. There are millions of them out there and lots of shops have worked on them and know them well. One problem with a diesel specific shop is that you are going to pay diesel specific prices! Like you said, they cater to the marine industry. You can triple the price of everything because it is a niche market.

Rick
 
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