• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Banks turbo problem

JohnFire

Member
336
4
18
Location
Pottsville, PA
I am guessing that my new sound that I heard yesterday is the turbo. It sounds like a loud sucking noise when under load. I checked quick yesterday to see if I saw anything noticable and didn't. Today on my way home it was the same and I noticed that the boost gauge is reading lower than normal. This is only when it is accelerating quickly, or going up a hill. It quiets down once you are cruising but at that point there is almost no boost pressure reading on the gauge. Max boost I got today was 5, and normally it would get up to 7-8 for the similar driving.

So if anyone has any ideas on what to start looking at I am open to ideas.
 

ken

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,480
24
38
Location
Houston Texas
I had a crack show up in the bonnet housing. The square can that replaced the original airfilter. It split from the rear stud that holds it to the intake manafold to the bug pipe plug at the rear. Giving the engine a sound like you describe. it was hard to see but leaked pretty good.
 

JohnFire

Member
336
4
18
Location
Pottsville, PA
Tommorrow morning I am going to pull the intake side off and look at it, with Banks stating that they no longer sell rebuild kits for it, and a new turbo would be $1100.

I am now debating on whether to keep the truck, sell the truck and all parts I have for it, or turn it in for the $4500 for the government's cash for clunkers. If I sell it , it would have to be for more than the $4500 that the gov is offering. I have two bostrom freightliner seats for the front, about $500 in body panels, a 24V starter that is good(from the 12V conversion), a M1008 rear step bumper that I was looking at converting to fit the M1009.

This is a very difficult decision for me since I have had the truck for 10 years including the time I had it in Germany where I bought it.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,247
1,168
113
Location
NY
Read the details for the Cash for Clunkers, I don't think that truck will qualify.
 
Last edited:

JohnFire

Member
336
4
18
Location
Pottsville, PA
Waller I will let you know. I am still trying to figure out what to do.

On the cash for clunkers part, from what I have read, the truck should qualify, and at that point I would step down to a small car. it is an 86 suv, that I have owned and insured for 10 years. On the Side-by-Side Comparison they are listing them as a k-10 blazer with a 6.2l diesel. With a 17mpg combined fuel estimate.
 

JohnFire

Member
336
4
18
Location
Pottsville, PA
Thought about that but then I need to get something rigged up for an exhaust system since the banks changes that. I have to look at the fact that I am throwing money into a 24 yr old vehicle. which has cost me an average of $1000-$1500 a year for the past couple years, and this year I think it would run me around $2500 cause I should get the radiator recored, new injectors, the body panels, and now the turbo.

This is a very difficult decision for me to make since I have owned this truck for so long and have taken it on many memorable trips. I bought it in Germany in 1999. I have driven it to England, France(paris), Netherlands (amsterdam), Belgium, Luxemburg, Switzerland, Leichtenstein, Austria, Italy, and of course Germany.

But I need a vehicle for transportation and to keep putting money into it is getting too much. As long as I have read everything correctly it qualifies for $4500, which I doubt, anyone would give me that much for it. For it to be worth selling it with the other seats, and panels it would have to go for $5500.

Not a happy time for me :cry:
 

Taz

New member
39
1
0
Location
Laramie, WY
I had a couple of leaks develop on my 1008 after I installed the Banks kit:
Double check that the rubber caps on the intake manifold are still there and not dry-rotted and leaking. The caps are installed at the fittings that used to work with the crankcase ventilation, on the sides under where the intake elbow bolts to the manifold. Mine dry rotted and leaked after a year or two.

And make sure the exhaust crossover is not leaking at the slip connection where they want you to clamp it.

Under boost, you hear pressurized air leaking out if either one of these is at fault and boost will be less.

You might not have a real seriuos problem. Good luck
 

3dubs

New member
424
2
0
Location
Houston, TX
I have never bought a new turbo. I always go to junk yards. If you can work on your own engine you can rebuild a turbo. I did it in a college dorm room. If you need some advice look for those guys in little cars that go way too fast. They are always working on turbos. But the housing on turbos can be swapped. The only part that must be the same is the flange that bolts to the manifold. So first check to see what the problem is. When you get to the turbo look at the fins on both sides. Spin it by hand. It should spin very easy. Then wiggle, pull and push the shaft. Depending on if there are bearings or not it should not move much. If it does not have bearings pull then push the total travel should not be more than about 1/4 inch. The wiggle should not be much. If this is causing your problems you will not need to measure it, you will know. You only need to measure things if you are buying a junk yard turbo. Then it depends on the turbo. But the Banks turbo in the 6.2 kit is a non-wastegated turbo. If there is too much boost it can be a problem. This would only be a problem if you rebuild it and do not use the right parts. The wastegated turbos allow you to adjust the boost. They do this with an adjustable preasure relief valve. So when the boost gets just above the selected boost the valve opens to drop the preasure.

So you can always get another turbo. They are very interchangable. You can always find one in a junkyard that will fit and not need to be rebuilt. Most come in from some kid who put too much boost in his little engine and blew the engine. But the turbo is fine. Look at your turbo get the numbers off the side and google them. You can find all kinds of information. Plus you will find the same numbers on other turbos.

This is a very long subject. So if you find your turbo is the problem PM me and we can just get on the phone.
 
Last edited:

ButterDiesel

New member
6
0
0
Location
Washington,PA
Don't know what size turbo you have, but 3dubs is right; turbos are interchangeable. Check ebay if you haven't already. Maybe check out other makes like Dodge/Ford. The turbo on my truck, a '99 Dodge w/Cummins, should work imo. It's a Holset hx-35, and should be enough for your application. Just pick up one of the hi-po diesel mags and start calling the numbers in the ads. Just my .02
 
Top