Batteries

underdog

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Well the receipts say 2012 I replaced the batteries as a pair.
One of them died over the winter.
The battery was still under replacement warranty so they replaced it (thanks tractor supply) for a no hassle resolution.

So that leaves me in a debate with my understanding of the situation.

The batteries teamed up to 24 volts need to be a matched pair.
I had another battery here that is also dated 2012 I put in to get the truck running but it is not an exact match to the other battery.
950 CCA vs 925 CCA; Not a big difference and may actually be the same as they are different brand labels on them.

I say team the two dated batteries up.
Or should I put the fresh matching battery with the dated battery?
 

steelandcanvas

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Did you have a Maintainer on your batteries over the Winter? The problem with what you are suggesting is that the batteries won't absorb a charge the same way. I replace the odd one...but that's just me.
 

doghead

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With a CUCV, you do not need to worry about matching the production dates.

Matched capacity/performance is important still.

Remember, each battery has it's own alternator.
 

underdog

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No maintainer used.
The vehicle was not in storage, but I do not get out much anymore.
I really need to get my battery maintainer functioning correctly or replace it I suppose.
It could also have been vibration that got it.
The old gal is rotting away so I have had to come up with creative ways to keep the forward battery in the vehicle.
 

underdog

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With a CUCV, you do not need to worry about matching the production dates.

Matched capacity/performance is important still.

Remember, each battery has it's own alternator.
I do not think so.
The drivers side alt hooks to the passenger side alt then that is sent to the power strip.
The forward battery hooks to the rear battery then hooks to the power strip.
There is no separate wiring there.

The driver side alt shows 12.3 volts
The passenger side 24.8 and that is wired to the power strip.

The drivers side alt has a bunch of wires run to it that must run to the fuse boxes.
 
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antennaclimber

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I do not think so.
The drivers side alt hooks to the passenger side alt then that is sent to the power strip.
The forward battery hooks to the rear battery then hooks to the power strip.
There is no separate wiring there.

The driver side alt shows 12.3 volts
The passenger side 24.8 and that is wired to the power strip.

The drivers side alt has a bunch of wires run to it that must run to the fuse boxes.
You may want to do some additional research on the CUCV electrical system

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ternator-Isolated-Ground-Therory-of-Operation

Each battery is charged with it's own alternator.
 

Attachments

underdog

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That was good info.
Thanks.
I could not open the .doc

I see the wire from the rear battery negative running to the glow plug circuit. That must also be a link to the drivers side alt.
Interesting.

That's why I come here.
To share and learn.

This old gal had her wiring hacked long ago.
That's how my dad got it. No one could make it function; But he did.
Dad is gone but the old gal is still getting it done the best she can.
I have her replacement out here but have never got around to making the change.
It is getting closer as the seats are about to fall thru the floor.
 
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Keith_J

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The wire from the rear battery negative is the same as the front battery positive, it runs to the diamond block left of center on the firewall, this is the 12 volt bus for the majority of the truck's electrical load. Only one fuse on the block is 24 volt and there is a 24 volt line running to the starter solenoid under the dash since the starter switch is 12 volt while the starter is 24 volt.
 

emr

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All batterys need a maintainer , I am amazed at how many people purchase a new batt and after a winter or a few months are surprised its not enough to crank over a motor, All batts even brand new should be brought up to a full charge, then the recommendation from techs I have called over the years is if it sits for more than 4 days it should be plugged in. Batts that sit below charge sulphate, Not all new batts are not still fully charged when we get them. As for dates, If one has different manufacture dates, Charge up all batts fully, let sit a day, load test , if they are in the same test range they do not have to be the same date, Also None of the batts in our trucks all hold the same charge anyway, The first batt in charging order is always full, the others down the line are always a little wanting, its like filling a pool, the first one will hold so much and the next one has to have enough need for the first one to have a draw so the charger keeps charging, the second and so on batt down the line gets enough charge to stop the charging system But stays a little low and walla, Sulphates over time , more than the lead batt, Batts must be rotated to get max life out of them, individually charged also at least once a year, no need to disconnect them to charge individually. fyi :) I realize the CUCV is different meaning one batt is not drawing from another but its good info to keep posted :)
 

AECS

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I have two different batteries in my 09. Been that way since before I bought it 6 months ago and it runs and works like a champ. Should I match them or just let it rock on till one fails then match them at that time.
 

nyoffroad

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If I ever had a truck/battery that needed to have a charger or "plugged in" every four days (or after sitting 4 day) I would either FIX the problem or sell the truck! My current truck has the military batts that came with it. Last time I had them out (1yr maybe 2 yrs.) they were dated something like 5 years old then. I'm not saying ya need OEM Batts or that they should last that long BUT Mine have sat for almost a year without starting it when I bought it and at times will sit for 2-4 weeks with out starting even in cold weather. Only time it failed was once I left the lights on for about 14 hours (in the winter!) and once when #1 alt. quit. Date codes mean nothing except when it was made, you do NOT have to match them up!
CCA should be the same, but if different I don't see why it would matter as long as there close EX. 900 CCA and 950CCA
BUT if Doghead say's it matters, Then I would either take his advice or think hard on why not to.
 

4x4 Forever

Emerald Shellback
Steel Soldiers Supporter
My CUCV was deader that a doornail with leaving it untended for months at a time (work out of country). I was looking at getting 2 new batts a couple of months ago and then started thinking about the Battery Maintainers/Desulphaters by Battery Minder and the solar panel route. I have tried the Battery Minder (1212?), hooked up one to each battery, and let them rip for a week. Right now they are both in good shape and working, both 3 years old. If you have power available at the truck you might want to try that before getting new batts. Got them for 59 each from Northern, new batts are 99+/-. Note: I have not tried the solar route yet as I am still looking.

Good luck!
 

whiskey357

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leave the batteries as is iffn one fails just replace iit...this is not a match set of final power amps in a transmitter......big difference....just get a replacement battery.....military always did it that way.....
 
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