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Battery/Alt question

raf32

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Location
Central Texas
I am still having my battery/charging issues here is where I'm at with my M1009 charging/starting problem:

Unhooked both batteries and charged them to full separately and when I installed them, the vehicle still turned over slow and would not start.

The loca shop says my drivers side alt is not charging correctly and says it needs to be replaced?

Should I do both? Or has anyone here had a similar issue? I just got this vehicle a couple weeks ago and the electrical agrivation is putting serious doubts about my decision. Any help appreciated.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
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If you charged your batterys, the alternator is not causing your starting problem(unless you see huge sparks when connecting your batterys).

Start reading the CUCV forum. Read for about 6 hours. You'll know your not alone and there are many items that can cause your situation.

You need to do a total "once over" of your CUCV electrical systems, to get things under control and reliable.
 

markg

Member
352
1
18
Location
hutto,tx
I am still having my battery/charging issues here is where I'm at with my M1009 charging/starting problem:

Unhooked both batteries and charged them to full separately and when I installed them, the vehicle still turned over slow and would not start.

The loca shop says my drivers side alt is not charging correctly and says it needs to be replaced?

Should I do both? Or has anyone here had a similar issue? I just got this vehicle a couple weeks ago and the electrical agrivation is putting serious doubts about my decision. Any help appreciated.
come see me next week and ill try to help you out.
 

Warthog

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OKC, OK
When you charged your batteries did you load test them also? Just because they will take a charge doesn't mean they are good.

Three of the most important tools you can buy are:
Voltmeter and know how to use it - ~$10 and up
12v Battery Charger - ~$50 for a decent one
Battery Load Tester - ~$30 for an okay one at Harbor Freight

Until you are 100 percent sure the batteries are good you will be chasing ghosts.

And then start cleaning electrical connections. The trucks are 25+ years old and the connections are dirty, corroaded or broken.

Also,the majority of the CUCVs do need to have the alternators rebuilt when you get them fro GL. You can rebuild them yourself for ~$50.

The 6.2L diesel needs to spin fast inorder to build compression, which heats the air and causes the diesel to ignite. Slow cranking leads to no starting.
 
Last edited:

BobMassive

New member
56
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Location
Chicago, Illinois
Raf32, just had a similar problem today. Voltmeter has always been in the yellow with the key in "on" position and its always started hard, a separate issue im still diagnosing. 2 or 3 cranks in the cold. Then once it started all was well volts were green. But today by the third crank volts were at the red/yellow hash mark and no start. removed batteries read 12.8 and had them tested. Cleaned all connections. The driver side alt does sound like it might be going too, making a slight whirring sound. Although Ive read in several places that the starter will sometimes crank slow just before it dies. ill test alt and starter hopefully this weekend.
 
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