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Battery Indicator Issues MEP 003

mastrman

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Put new fuse in my 24VDC and all voltages are within spec. My battery indicator is dead as a hammer. Took off lead to check with ammeter. Absolutely no voltage to indicator. Where do I begin to look? 33v at stator, 26.6vdc at batteries. I still do not have an engine kill solenoid hooked up. Put ammeter red lead in single socket and grounded my black lead. Am I missing something?
 
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Triple Jim

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Put ammeter red lead in single socket and grounded my black lead.
I'm not sure what the "single socket" is you're referring to, but if you have an ammeter and put the red lead on something like a live 24V terminal and put the black lead on ground, you create a short circuit that will either blow a fuse somewhere or wreck your meter.
 

mastrman

New member
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Tulsa, OK
The single socket is a one wire lead to the battery indicator. The socket should put out about 26vdc. The battery indicator is grounded to the control panel.
 

lxawolf

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6
Location
Sussex, NJ
I also have a DOA DC volt meeter. Looking around and doing some research, it looks as if the Stewart Warner # 82347 is a drop in replacement. I have not received it to confirm but just wanted to pass on and give you the part number.
 

Triple Jim

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The single socket is a one wire lead to the battery indicator. The socket should put out about 26vdc. The battery indicator is grounded to the control panel.
OK I understand now. You need to use a volt meter or a multimeter configured for measuring volts to measure between the connector and ground, not an ammeter.

The panel meter gets its power right after the "start relay", which closes when the oil pressure comes up. Does the engine start and run without holding the master switch in the "start" position? If so, it would look like the wire to the meter is disconnected or broken. If the meter is not reading anything before you actually start the engine, that's normal.
 

mastrman

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Tulsa, OK
I was looking at the forum archives and one problem that was identical to mine was the ground to the control box. I also have an hour meter that is not working. Will clean ground leads tomorrow and see if that works. Also I checked for voltage with a multimeter, not an ammeter. No ground to control box, no current to instruments.
 

cuad4u

Active member
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28
Location
St Matthews, SC
I have been a HAM radio operator (AD4U) for 50 years. We have get-togethers called hamfests where people buy and sell junk. At most every large hamfest there are people who have truck loads of new and used meters and gauges. Last year at the Charlotte NC hamfest I plundered through a pile of meters and gauges and found several brand new in the box 28VDC meters identical to the ones on the 002A and 003A for $1.00 each. In the same pile I also found numerous 0-300VAC and % current gauges to use on MEP generators for a couple of bucks each. You may want to try this. You to not have to be a HAM to attend hamfests.
 

cuad4u

Active member
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Location
St Matthews, SC
It's nice to bump in to a fellow Ham. I've been one for something like 20 years. I need to go to a hamfest! I haven't been to one for a few years now.
Hi "Triple Jim". I have been going to the Charlotte NC hamfest since the mid 1970's. Originally this was a weekend family affair with a couple of other ham families. All the kiddos are grown with children and scattered all over the country, so we old time hams are the only ones who still attend. It is no longer a weekend long family trip. I also try to make Shelby every year or so. I see where you designed a replacement VR for the MEP gens. I was working on one too. I actually have one of mine installed on a 002A that has been working quite well for about 18 months. Basically my design is an adjustable 3 terminal VR with a couple of pass transistors. Total cost for the parts was less than $20.

Dick AD4U
 
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Triple Jim

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Is this the main control regulator for the exciter field, or a 24VDC one? The cost of materials isn't a lot for the DC regulator, but fabricating a housing, assembling a board, testing, and potting takes more time that one would guess it does!
 

cuad4u

Active member
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Location
St Matthews, SC
Sorry for not being specific. I now see where your VR is for the AC. The VR I built is for the 28V battery charging circuit. I have seen quite a few OE regulators go south. I never tried to market mine for the reasons you mentioned. It is hard wired in a small sealed aluminum project box with the pass transistors heat sinked to a small finned heat sink on the front of the box so the air flow from the fan keeps things cool. With around 1000CFM of air going across it, I probably did not need the external finned heat sink.
 

Triple Jim

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Location
North Carolina
Sounds good. I have a couple prototype "24V" regulators getting some hours on them now, and will have the production version available in a couple weeks. Good work on making your own.

Sorry for the hijack, still waiting to hear about Mastrman's meter, and whether the problem was a bad ground.
 

Triple Jim

Well-known member
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Location
North Carolina
I understand. It was near 70 here today, but it won't be tomorrow, and Thursday's high is going to be in the 20s. That's pretty cold for NC!
 

mastrman

New member
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Location
Tulsa, OK
Had an excellent moment today! The battery indicator was not working and my kill solenoid on the injector pump would not stay up after put in run position. I looked through the archives because I had closed both heat and oil sensor with no result. I found one thread that talked about the K1 armature relay in the control box. It is a rectangular piece in the right upper corner between terminals than can be flipped over. Feeling it or the start switch was bad, I switched it over as instructed. The solenoid and the battery indicator came to life! I have not yet checked both the sensors but I feel truly grateful that I could find the information I needed on this forum. Steel Soldiers is the BOMB!
 

doghead

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That is fantastic!
 
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