Bed mounted accessory crane location INFO

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V8srfun

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Altoona pa
I just got this lift to install in the bed of my deuce to make loading and unloading heavy objects easier. I am looking for opinions on if you think my proposed mounting location is going to cause any issues. I want to make it as close to the back and side as possible but I need to leave enough room to operate it.

I was planning on mounting on the drivers side but being that it would block the hydraulic valve I moved to the passenger side.

I would mount right up against the bed side but then the upright would hit the troop seats. Where it is here in the picture there is some clearance but I don’t know that it is enough?

The bed support bar is 15 inches from the end of the bed and I have it positioned so that the front bolts would go through it for extra rigidity.and I can not move it to far back or I would not be able to close the tailgate when the lift is in its static position.

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If you see anything that you would change about the location please let me know and why. I need to go to the hardware to get the bolts to attach to the bed since they were not included.

Any suggestions/ help is appreciated I definitely don’t want to turn my bed in to Swiss Cheese!
 

gentrysgarage

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Lost Angels, CA
I don't now how thick the reinforcements are for the bed but I think they would be 2 thin and would flex at the mount. when I rigged up the crane for my truck
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the 1/4 inch rectangular tubing under the mount flexed a little when lifting the transmission up at the 1000 lbs position (trans weighs 416 lbs) . the plate under the rectangular tubing is a rear crossmember from a M35A2.
 

MWMULES

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gimpyrobb had a thread on this years ago, seems like he had to use an oversized plate underneath to keep the bed from flexing.

 

V8srfun

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Altoona pa
I got the poor mans knuckle boom installed Friday and have used it for a couple jobs so far. This is far from a perfect tool but for the price I am more than satisfied with what I can do with it.

Here are some pictures of the location and support used to install. I would have loved to wield a piece of half inch plate but I had this angle iron laying around and it only needed to be cut to size, cleaned, and painted so the cheap alternative works for me.

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The only thing I would change is maybe move it out in to the bed a couple inches but I really don’t know. It is a compromise no matter what because you either loose bed space or work with the crane tight against the bedside.
And I definitely need to cover this orange paint with something more fitting. I am thinking some flat black rattle can but have not decided yet.
 

VPed

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I figured on mounting one of those with the base below the bed so the removable hoist inserts through a hole in the bed. The base would have been mounted to one of the bed support rails for adequate support. This way, one would not lose bed space when the hoist is not installed and you take advantage of a very strong mounting point. My plan fell to the wayside when I bought a wrecker.
 

CMPPhil

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Temple, NH
Hi

Your unit is very similar to the one I have in my truck. Word of Caution - be sure the locking screw on the swivel is back all the way out when unit is loaded. When screwed in it puts a spot load on the swivel tube which will dent the tube in time. On mine this resulted in the swivel tub failing under load.

Other wise this type of unit has worked great for me, I did replace the manual winch on it with a Warren electric winch. Mine is the 1000LBS version and yes I have used it up to the limit. That is probably why the swivel lock was able to damage the tube.

Cheer PhilScreen Shot 2020-06-08 at 11.45.02 AM.pngScreen Shot 2020-06-08 at 11.44.44 AM.png

Went out to the shop and found the old base tube in the scrap pile to show the problem.Hoist base.pngHoist base 2.pngHoist base 3.png
Now instead of the little screw in locking bolt, added a ring bolt to the floor plate and hook the winch cable to it. There is another thing I have leaned with this setup particularly with the electric winch don't be tempted to use the winch do not be tempted to use it to drag thing over to the truck to lift. The side loading on lift unit becomes enormous. Instead I use the lift block hooked to the ring and the lift are all the way down to redirect the pull.

Cheers Phil
 
Last edited:

CMPPhil

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Another modification I made to my hoist was to add a hinge so that it will lay down in the truck bed. Did this for a couple of reasons -
First the door and ceiling were this truck is stored is to low to drive the truck in with it in the upright position. These hoist are a little to heavy to man handle comfortably when the swivel flange bolts are removed. Hence the hinge, just remove the swivel flange bolts and fold the upper hoist down.
Second reason is with the hoist folded down it is below the side of the side of the truck so that it is out of sight when the truck is in parade or display use.
Screen Shot 2020-06-09 at 3.08.20 PM.pngScreen Shot 2020-06-09 at 3.08.04 PM.png
I'm sure you are going to find the hoist very useful, makes the truck much more useful for single handed projects. Flower planting boxes moved around the yard, haul the generator down to the kids home when their power is out. Loading logs to be cut up for fire wood.

Cheers Phil
 

davidb56

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Bonners Ferry Idaho
Im going to bolt my place through the deck into the bed cross members, the add a 4 inch piece of channel and weld it to the frame. Im not sure what brake mechanism I'll make up. Maybe a worm gear so it will turn by a handle, but not rotate because of the mechanical nature. My tubing will be 1/4"x3"x3" square. the bearing will be a 7000lb stub axle shaft in a idler flange. Bolted to a 3/8"x12"x18" plate. I'll set it back from the tail gate about 16" to clear the log lift Im building so I dont have to roll the rounds up a board anymore. Pictures in a few weeks. Been real busy building stuff and planting food. Roll cage is next.
 

V8srfun

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Altoona pa
V8srfun, where did you get your crane?

I found the product on amazon then found their website and bought directly from them. Keep in mind the reason Jeff Bezos is one of the richest men alive is because he charges 30% off the top of everything sold on his website. So whenever you see a product on amazon you can almost always buy it cheaper directly from the manufacturer if they offer direct sale.
 

gentrysgarage

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Lost Angels, CA
Im going to bolt my place through the deck into the bed cross members, the add a 4 inch piece of channel and weld it to the frame. Im not sure what brake mechanism I'll make up. Maybe a worm gear so it will turn by a handle, but not rotate because of the mechanical nature. My tubing will be 1/4"x3"x3" square. the bearing will be a 7000lb stub axle shaft in a idler flange. Bolted to a 3/8"x12"x18" plate. I'll set it back from the tail gate about 16" to clear the log lift Im building so I dont have to roll the rounds up a board anymore. Pictures in a few weeks. Been real busy building stuff and planting food. Roll cage is next.
Post this up when you do! I have 2 tubes and hubs off a Dana 70 set aside for something that seems like what you are planning!
 

davidb56

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Bonners Ferry Idaho
I will. I bought the stub and hub off flea bay for 120$ a harbor junk jack with a 20" ram for 70$, and a bad land 2500lb winch for 80$. Im waiting for the steel shop to punch the holes in the plate, as im to busy/lazy to drill 18, 1/2" holes in 3/8 inch plate. they may take a few weeks as its planting /harvesting season here.....something about Hops for beer, and potatoes for fries, or vodka.
 

Sgt Jiggins

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Lynchburg, VA
I really like the looks of this. And the cost is fully within reason at the link supplied above by v8srfun. What I'm wondering: how well does this thing pivot/spin/rotate under load?
 

davidb56

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Bonners Ferry Idaho
The 2 Inch square stub axle slips into the 2 1/2 inch square tubing, but you/I had to grind a small groove in the stub to clear the seam weld in the tube. that took about five minutes and about 6 inches long. Sure beats picking slivers out from trying to die grind the seam weld. the round plate is to keep the wood debris and snow off the axle seal. I may put a brake mechanism there, but realistically, Im too lazy to do it unless the crane moves too much. You probably figured I had to burn a 8 inch hole through the deck for the rest of the hub to fit through. this system both the bearings in it.
 

davidb56

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Bonners Ferry Idaho
I should have welded a disc brake rotor instead of that round plate to protect the seal AND provide a brake to hold the crane in place. Now I may have to add some thickness to it so a caliper can clamp down on it, or split a rotor in half and re weld it on...... Hind sight will bite you on the as$ every time.
 

SlowRoller

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Location
14760
What vehicle is that mounted in?

Hi

Your unit is very similar to the one I have in my truck. Word of Caution - be sure the locking screw on the swivel is back all the way out when unit is loaded. When screwed in it puts a spot load on the swivel tube which will dent the tube in time. On mine this resulted in the swivel tub failing under load.

Other wise this type of unit has worked great for me, I did replace the manual winch on it with a Warren electric winch. Mine is the 1000LBS version and yes I have used it up to the limit. That is probably why the swivel lock was able to damage the tube.

Cheer PhilView attachment 802561View attachment 802562

Went out to the shop and found the old base tube in the scrap pile to show the problem.View attachment 802650View attachment 802651View attachment 802652
Now instead of the little screw in locking bolt, added a ring bolt to the floor plate and hook the winch cable to it. There is another thing I have leaned with this setup particularly with the electric winch don't be tempted to use the winch do not be tempted to use it to drag thing over to the truck to lift. The side loading on lift unit becomes enormous. Instead I use the lift block hooked to the ring and the lift are all the way down to redirect the pull.

Cheers Phil
 
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