Behr Paint Jobs- Show me your MV's

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wilfreeman

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Richburg, SC
Well ****, thats what I was looking for - cheap, hides alot of flaws (b/c i'm not going to blast the whole trailer - just scuff it) and an even finish for the work involved (i think - i'll look at it on my laptop when I get home - i'm sure this phone doesn't do it justice). Even with 5 gal, you still only have what, $175 in the paint? Can't complain, just :grd:
 

Gunfreak25

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Yuma, AZ
I couldn't be happier with my $25 electric paint gun. I got it off Amazon, they don't have any left. But it looks very similar to the Chicago Electric made ones at HB. Very simple in construction and easy to clean and take care of. I don't see how it could break, there's nothing to it. For those about to jump on the soap box about "made in china". So are the Wagners. Albeit by better Chinese. :lol:
 

Loco_Hosa

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Ethel, Wa
I couldn't be happier with my $25 electric paint gun. I got it off Amazon, they don't have any left. But it looks very similar to the Chicago Electric made ones at HB. Very simple in construction and easy to clean and take care of. I don't see how it could break, there's nothing to it. For those about to jump on the soap box about "made in china". So are the Wagners. Albeit by better Chinese. :lol:
Ok, let me start by saying that I am still months away from being ready to paint my truck, but I do want to paint the old girl and get her looking good. This thread has certainly made that goal seem much more in reach.

Since I have many painters subscribed who will read this, I will go a bit off topic to undercoatings and bed liners. If anyone is bothered by my minor hi-jack, please inform me I will politely delete this posting.

Have any of you used a spraygun for undercoatings and bed-liners? Do you have any input on which to use, what worked for you, ect? I saw something on TV about a spray in sound deadening material (I believe it was sold on summit racing), has anyone tried this?

Lastly, if you have used any kind of undercoating, where did you undercoat? I know many muscle car guys use bed liner material on the bottoms of their cars, it keeps it from rusting and is scratch proof.

My only experience was with Herculiner, rolled on with the wrong roller. I did an offraod bumper with it and the results were OK, but I felt it faded quickly.

Gunfreak, the gun you mentioned, can it be used to spray such things?

Im sorry if any of this is REALLY n00bish, I just don't have any experience with paint sprayers. Im trying to plot out how I want to do the job when I am ready to start spraying my truck.

EDIT:
Summit racing sells Lizard skin. There are two types.

Type #1 is ceramic insulation, its class A fire rated, reduces heat transfer by 25 -30 degrees and noise by 20-30 decibels and it withstand temps from -45 degrees to 500 degrees. Summit part # Is LIZ-50100. $159
Type #2. Is strictly a noise reduction coating and withstands temps up to 300 degrees, summit part# LIZ-50115 $149

Both types come in a 2gal bucket, the ceramic stuff applied at .040 thick will cover 45-50 sq feet. The sound control coating will cover a 100 sq feet when applied at .020 thick. Basically ya spray it on, and it cures to a durable yet flexible state.
 
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firefirefire90

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Honolulu, HI
Air brush? Y'all could use a roller and get te same result. Behr paint doesn't leave any streaks. Once the sun comes out I'll snap some pics. The only thing I dislike about Behr is the incredibly long curing process.. Two days after first paint there was fog which ruined my first coat
 

Gunfreak25

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I don't believe the Herculiner would spray very well. For one, it is textured which means there is some type of abrasive material in the paint which would destroy the brass spraying tip rather quickly. I tried brushing and rolling the Behr and was not happy with how it came out. I wanted a uniform texture that could be quickly and easily sprayed into all sorts of crevices in, around and under the truck. I would recommend thinning the Behr as much as is allowed for the given amount of paint.

For what it's worth, I took apart my gun today to see how it works and is built. Super simple. I see no way it could break and if it did, nothing any man couldn't fix. Nothing to them. The Chinese use the KISS principle here.
 
461
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Location
Sandyston, NJ
For spraying a bed liner or undercoating you need to use what is called a shutz gun. They are cheap at your local auto body supply, about $20. It hase a 1/4" nozzle to allow a good flow. As for the Herculiner fading, they make a UV top coat. It is not really advertised or carried in stores but if you go to where you buy your Herculiner and ask for it they can order it in for you. I have used the shutz gun to spray the interior of a M1009 and it looks like a pro sprayed it. It comes out very even with no lines and has a very uniform look. I don't have any pics but I will try to get some this weekend and post them. Any other questions feel free to ask.
 

roady

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Greensboro MD
For spraying a bed liner or undercoating you need to use what is called a shutz gun. They are cheap at your local auto body supply, about $20. It hase a 1/4" nozzle to allow a good flow. As for the Herculiner fading, they make a UV top coat. It is not really advertised or carried in stores but if you go to where you buy your Herculiner and ask for it they can order it in for you. I have used the shutz gun to spray the interior of a M1009 and it looks like a pro sprayed it. It comes out very even with no lines and has a very uniform look. I don't have any pics but I will try to get some this weekend and post them. Any other questions feel free to ask.

Yes please get us some pics. I would be interested in them.
 

Gunfreak25

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Yuma, AZ
If your asking if it would keep it from sun rotting, sure. A lot of people down here paint PVC pipe that sits outdoors to keep it from sun rotting. Works great, just make sure the herculiner is not a super smooth finish. Being a bedliner, it's probably quite porous so any paint should adhere remarkably well.
 

hawkeyepoole

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Keller, TX
Just a quick note. I volunteer at an Air Museum and one of our C-47's is painted with "house paint" and it's been 4 years sitting outside. It flies all the time, gets copius amounts of fuel and engine oil dumped on it and it's holding up just fine. We laughed when it was painted, but the director is laughing now!:jumpin:
 

Loco_Hosa

Member
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Location
Ethel, Wa
Just a quick note. I volunteer at an Air Museum and one of our C-47's is painted with "house paint" and it's been 4 years sitting outside. It flies all the time, gets copius amounts of fuel and engine oil dumped on it and it's holding up just fine. We laughed when it was painted, but the director is laughing now!:jumpin:
just about every Deuce I have seen has a ring around the filler port on the fuel tank, indicating where fuel has damaged or at least discolored the paint.

Can you share a photo of the area surrounding (Do planes have gas caps?) to show how un-damaged the paint is?

Either way, thanks for the helpful post!
 

bjsmith

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zachary,la
i think i might be painting my truck soon but will be using sherwin williams exterior paint because i have account with them and can get it for half of what i can get the berh for just have to see if they can use the behr paint codes if not i have some flaking under my hood that i can take a peice to them to match
 

RAYZER

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sanford/florida
I painted the inside of my cab 2 weeks ago,the color looks right on but the finish is not quite a carc
Finish texture,its just one coat at this time but I'll apply a second,i used a narrow tip and that worked well giving a nice even coat without having to thin the paint.the entire truck will get this treatment after i get the cab back together,i have to admit im just a little scepticle about long term results and durability but am hoping for the best, has any one tried to force dry this stuff?
 

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Tow4

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has any one tried to force dry this stuff?
I noticed Behr takes a long time to dry and get hard. I did several test areas on my M818 and it was several weeks before I couldn't scratch it off. On a side note my truck is parked inside where it doesn't get any sun.

You might be able to heat it to help it dry. I also painted the exhaust pipe and guard from the fender up. I primed the pipe with red-oxide primer after sanding it. I let that dry a few days and then scuffed it with a scotchbrite pad and then painted with the Behr. I let it dry for a couple of days and then took the truck for a drive. I smelled the paint baking, but it only discolored a little and is now baked on. It's very hard and after driving around several more times the color has not changed and the paint didn't burn off.

I would probably let it dry naturally a few days before heating. Paint a test piece and then try different methods to dry it. My buddy uses heat lamps in his shop, but they are painting with solvent based and catalytic paints. It kicks pretty fast, I don't know how a latex paint would react. You might end up with shrinkage, etc. since it drys slower.

Let us know what you find out.
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
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Location
sanford/florida
Waiting a couple days and then force dry kinda defeats the purpose of force drying :razz:
I was thinking of those who don't have enclosure to keep the rain and dew off of uncured paint,super curing using heat would sure be convenient.
I worked for a boat builder and we would wrap the finished product with shrinkwrap and use a lp flamethrower to shrink the wrap without burning it,I've seen these flamethrowers in the roofing dept at lowes, i think I'll try this if someone don't beat me to it!
 
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