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Big Dumb Trailer ...more pics

rizzo

Active member
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Port Huron, MI
Re: RE: tgrailer

spicergear said:
Mike- Not sure on tongue weight, maybe 200-300Lbs..??

BFR- Will prolly pull the axle shafts and try and round up 4 spare drive flanges to slap on. Not sure about the chunks as of yet...I think for the 430Lbs they weigh total, I'll just leave them in. HA-HA, besides who breaks them? Yeah...

Mike- STOP IT...I'm struggling as it is NOT to build a drive trailer!!! ;)

Kenny- Glad you like the view, me too!

Katch1- Not at all. Still need to acquire the front mounting plate...or what I decide.

I got a line on a heavy duty stand for the front and some brake parts so I'll try and get them next week sometime. We'll see!
I was thinking of the view in the first few pics. I'm a little envious of you and the others in the mountains.

are you gonna use the air over hydraulic from a m105?
 

spicergear

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RE: Re: RE: tgrailer

That's the plan, I got a line on some great priced new air over jobbies and will run one per axle. Mike was kind enough to compare some part #'s and by the technical views and PN's they should work fine.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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RE: Re: RE: tgrailer

Tom, My semi has one relay valve that branches into 2 air chambers that apply 2 M105 master cylinders. Onne master per axle.
 

hot rod deuce

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Kasota, Mn
RE: Re: RE: tgrailer

You beat me to it again.
My plans was to build air ride suspension for the truck and take my rear set up for 16's and do the same thing.
Once again genious minds think alike!

I like the idea that your trailer has a pintle hitch too, this could be never ending. How big is your air brake tank? or did you gain two of those in the swap too?

Is that old cab any good?
 

spicergear

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RE: Re: RE: tgrailer

HRD...but you still have tracked vehicles. :(

I gained two good tanks with the donor truck. Was debating about using them or not. Was kind of figuring that since they're there, I might as well run the line to them and help with the system. I have added a 20+ gallon air tank to the truck above my hydraulic tank that I'm planning on plumbing in as well.

The old cab had the engine ripped out of it and has the floor buggered up at the tranny cover and firewall, but other than that it's in not too bad a shape. No rust in floor, no feathered metal in back. If it wasn't for the floor being FUBAR'ed at the firewall and trans area, it would be better than my trucks cab.

I am having a very difficult time NOT making this a drive trailer. Talked to a buddy of mine tonight who dropped the idea of a snap pin hook up like a PTO on a tractor. I think I'm screwed now and will be building the drive option into it. Gotta get some sleep and lay under it tomorrow and see how feasible it looks.
 

warwick

Member
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Location
Maryland, USA
RE: Re: RE: tgrailer

Tom i might have missed this somewhere, but, are you going to pull this with "blue"? are you goning to put a bed on "blue"?

any thing change with velvet or futura since you left the zone?
 

Gatnom

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Central PA
RE: Re: RE: tgrailer

Tom: It's an interesting idea, but my big concern is how to manage the u-joint angles. As long as your pointing dead ahead, all is well, but as you turn, I think the angles will become impossibly steep. Sure to twist off crosses or open the yokes. The other thing to think of is how well it will drive? Again, strait ahead, geat, but begin to turn and the trailer will continue to push nearly strait shoving the rear of the towing vehicle sideways. Just my 2cents. Have Fun. Dave
 

mangus580

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Western NY
RE: Re: RE: tgrailer

Gatnom, same way a tractor can turn a corner with its implement..... a nice CV joint.

I dont think the trailer will really push the truck.... unless maybe in a jackknife situation, where the rear tires of the truck lose traction.
 

Elwenil

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RE: Re: RE: tgrailer

Geez, you guys are going to have Tom's head swimming with ideas, lol. This is just the sort of thing to put him into overdrive fab mode, lmfao...
 

1ton

New member
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Location
Lawrence, KS
I see a trip to a Tractor Supply Co. and with Spicy and a cart full of PTO parts. I bet the the clerk is gonna ask "What you need all theses parts for? The clerk will regret asking. You could as use a tcase that can be shifted to neutral. I have no doubt that he will find a use for the front output too. :twisted:
Just make sure you can't shift into low trailer wheels would be turning quite a lot slower than the truck.
 

BFR

Rocket Surgeon
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Location
North Georgia
well you would always want the trailer wheels going slower anyway, right? It would only be engaged offroad, right? :wink:
 

rdixiemiller

Active member
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Location
Olive Branch Mississipi
There were actually some articulated trucks built that way over the years, HEMMTS are now. You want the driveshafts to pivot as close to the vehicle connection (pintle hook in this case) as possible. You would want to run a driveshaft up from the rear axle drive flange to a pillow block bearing under the pintle hook. The driveline from the trailer would end up in the same relative position. I would build a short driveshaft with a slip yoke and a single bolt locking mechanism to hold the whole thing together. You could leave the short shaft out for highway use, and slip the shaft in for off road antics.
 
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