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bleeding fuel injection lines

wayne pick

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If the electric fuel pump you installed is working properly, fuel should be pouring out of the fuel line going to the IP regardless of the engine turning or not. If it's just weeping, there is a restriction or a kinked line after the electric fuel pump or spin on filter install. Make sure the fuel is flowing the right way from the pump. There should be an arrow on the pump pointing to the direction of the fuel to the engine.
 

swbradley1

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If the electric fuel pump you installed is working properly, fuel should be pouring out of the fuel line going to the IP regardless of the engine turning or not. If it's just weeping, there is a restriction or a kinked line after the electric fuel pump or spin on filter install. Make sure the fuel is flowing the right way from the pump. There should be an arrow on the pump pointing to the direction of the fuel to the engine.

Yep, step-by-step. 13 posts later and it is pointed out again. If the electric pump is doing 5 PSI then there should be a steady stream out of the line.
 
In the back where the grounds attach there are 3 grounds, 1 to buss, 1 to body, 1 to wire loom. And I just installed a IP ,fuel, and electric pump today. You just have to take your time and dont rush or youll burn up your starter. I only cracked open one injector to know when fuel was there and she started right up.
 

galeo7171

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If the electric fuel pump you installed is working properly, fuel should be pouring out of the fuel line going to the IP regardless of the engine turning or not. If it's just weeping, there is a restriction or a kinked line after the electric fuel pump or spin on filter install. Make sure the fuel is flowing the right way from the pump. There should be an arrow on the pump pointing to the direction of the fuel to the engine.
I meant that the fuel is weeping out at the actual injector lines just prior to the injectors. The fuel pours out after the filter.
 

wayne pick

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Ok! Now put the injector lines back on tight and then back off one turn. I do two at a time as it makes less of a mess. Crank untill you see pure fuel with no air bubbles. Do not crank any more than 5 to 8 seconds with a cool down period in between. This is very important if you have not done the doghead starter relay upgrade. If the starter motor gets so hot that you can't hold your hand on it, it's too hot. let it cool down and continue. If you get a few cylinders to fire, the rest might clear up. If they don't you will have to bleed the rest with the engine running on those few cylinders. keep hands away from the fan and belts.
 

Shankem-Deep

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All that help and you never finished the thread....It doesn't help anyone to search and read threads with a similiar problem if you don't finish the thread with a resolution! Consider it giving back for all the help you received.
 

Skinny

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I agree, some type of resolution would have helped out the people searching these types of threads. There was an awful lot of "what not to do" in this scenario. No one should be burning out starters trying to bleed fuel systems. Even with the stock pump and box filter, you should not need any more than 3 or 4 crank cycles to bleed it out. Since he had an electric pump, this really would have been a no brainer to bleed. At least people searching should note to not overlook ground/power issues on a 30 year old truck.
 
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