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Blew up my new MEP-005a!

sewerzuk

Member
524
9
18
Location
Seaside, OR
One of the sets I picked up from Ft. Lewis was this really nice, low hour -005a, with ASK. I spent my normal few hours running through everything, changing filters, purging fuel lines, etc. She fired right up, came up to 50Hz, oil pressure came up within about 3 or 4 seconds, and I thought, "sweet! this is one great sounding machine." At the conclusion of that thought, the engine began to miss for about 2 seconds, followed by several successive knocks. I hit the off switch, but before the engine came to a stop the banging turned into and earsplitting sledgehammer-on-the-side-of-the-block sound (a neighbor came over to see if I was OK). I cranked the engine over by hand and could hear compression rapidly bleeding out the intake side of one cylinder. I can hear something hitting the side of the block in the oilpan area too...

I'm betting a valve stuck, the piston hit and bent it, which bent the connecting rod for that cylinder. :doh:

What a bummer...it would be one thing if there was already a hole in the side of the block, but it was :almost: just fine...if that one valve wouldn't have stuck there would have been no issue. Spent a lot of $$ just to end up with a pile of spare parts.

It isn't worth fixing...too much work for not enough payback. On the brighter side, it frees up a lot of spare parts for the other 5 sets I picked up. I will certainly be stripping it down, so if anybody needs a good 60Hz generator head or other MEP-004a or -005a parts I may have some in the coming months...
 

coyotegray

Member
492
10
18
Location
Oklahoma City
That really sucks...

I wonder what prestart steps someone could follow when dealing with an engine that may have not been run in a long time to help prevent this..?
 

sewerzuk

Member
524
9
18
Location
Seaside, OR
That really sucks...

I wonder what prestart steps someone could follow when dealing with an engine that may have not been run in a long time to help prevent this..?
I actually seriously thought about using some kind of an oil pump in line with the remote oil filter on these sets to prelube...could have saved a perfectly good -005 in this case. It would be easy with the -004 and -005 because of the remote filter cannister.

I typically crank a set for several seconds, then stop and check all fittings/hoses/etc. to make sure there are no leaks, smoke, etc. If that first check is good, I crank it until it starts. I let it run for about 5-10 seconds (just long enough for oil pressure to fully build) and then I shut down and do the same checks. This has worked for me on dozens of other MEP's...but it didn't this time.
 

sewerzuk

Member
524
9
18
Location
Seaside, OR
Decided to fire it up long enough to test the electrical side of things. Figured the engine was done for anyway, so I let her rip. Aside from the loud knocking and running on 5 cylinders, everything else checked out OK; in fact, I even was able to get about 25kW out of it before the engine began to bog down. And, amazingly enough, the engine held up for at least 5 minutes of runtime and didn't barf parts out of the side of the block. So, now the teardown begins...
 

sewerzuk

Member
524
9
18
Location
Seaside, OR
I got a chance to strip the set down this afternoon...found a 3/8"x1" bolt lodged in the intake valve of #3 cylinder. %^&*$!!aua

Valve is bent, seat is damaged, the piston is damaged, and the connecting rod is bent. Not worth fixing. Spare parts, now.

So...the set was probably just fine when I started it. I had no reason to suspect that there might have been something in the intake; the air filter was intact and in place when I got it. What really irks me is that this was obviously preventable by me. If I had taken the time to pull the air filter, I might have seen that stray bolt. I WILL be doing that on all future pre-run inspections.

Wonder who pulled that crap on me...some disgruntled grunt? A prankster in the GL yard?
 

PeterD

New member
622
6
0
Location
Jaffrey, NH
Personally, if the unit was in the condition you describe I would consider rebuilding it. Find a unit (like the one described above) nearby with a good engine (or parts?) and make it work. I know when I rebuilt my MEP-004 I did consider just throwing in a new engine. Fortunately for me, it wasn't necessary.

As for that 'errant' bolt, I gotta agree, that sucks, big time. I know sometimes the grunts did do stuff like that when they felt they didn't want to fix something that was fixable but difficult to do--so they'd have an accident that totaled out the unit.
 

sewerzuk

Member
524
9
18
Location
Seaside, OR

sewerzuk

Member
524
9
18
Location
Seaside, OR
Personally, if the unit was in the condition you describe I would consider rebuilding it. Find a unit (like the one described above) nearby with a good engine (or parts?) and make it work. I know when I rebuilt my MEP-004 I did consider just throwing in a new engine. Fortunately for me, it wasn't necessary.
Its too late now, anyway...several of the parts went to my many -004's to get them running. I seriously thought about trying to repair it, but at a minimum I would have needed machine work on the head, new valve, top end gasket set, new piston/rings/bearings/connecting rod, and even then I don't know if the crank was bent, or if there was damage to the block, head was warped, bent/broken pushrods/rocker arm, etc.
I have to admit...I move these sets though my shop with the intention of making $$ on them. If I sell a good working -005 for $3500, I need to be into it for $2000 or less, or it really isn't worth my time. I paid over $1k for this one from GL and am a bit more into it when you consider my time and fuel for hauling AND the fuel/oil/filters that I wasted on starting the engine; so the only way out for me was to part it out. If I fully repaired it properly, I'm guessing that I would be getting close to the $3000-$3500 area with tons of time invested. Just isn't worth it.
 
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