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Bobbed M931 almost done, Pics soon! A few questions please...

joesco

Member
442
1
18
Location
Hampstead, NH
We are finishing up a few small details on the M931 Bob Project and I did a search to see if I could find an answer to a few questions, but was unsuccessful.

My truck originally came with G177's and I swapped for buddy's Michelin 14x20 Super Singles. I have a brand new SS spare, but it won't fit in the M931 G177 tire carrier behind the cab. Do I need to swap the tire carrier on my buddy's M931A1 or can mine be adjusted to fit the monster tire?

Block Heater Installation.....Thanks for the great posts on block heaters. We installed a ZeroStart 1500 watt block heater in the forward port today and it took about 15 minutes to install and about an hour to drain the antifreeze as described. We used high temp RTV sealant on both sides of the new gasket, NO LEAKS! How and where do you guys run the a/c plug, through the front grill area?? Thanks!!!

Headlight issue.....
We lost the head lights on the trip back to NH from New Castle last year and believe it was a high-beam foot switch. There are three wires in which I have to install new connectors to plug into the take-out switch. Does it matter which wires plug into the bottom of the high-beam / dimmer floor switch? They all seem to be labeled 18.

Thanks Folks!
 

joesco

Member
442
1
18
Location
Hampstead, NH
Here are some pics. Lots of mildew on the cab, some surface rust on the donor Deuce bed, but need warm weather to do some sanding and prep before a paint job this Spring. Some immediately tasks ahead are to install a set of mudflaps, (purchased on Amazon), trouble shoot my headlights, figure out why my ABS light is on, and swap out my 931 tire carrieforkr a 931A1 tire carrier, short list for now. Today I install a set of locking door handles and tomorrow the battery cut-off switch. PS the site crashed as I was uploading pics, sorry about that!
 

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camoyj7

Member
927
18
18
Location
wonder lake IL
I don't mean to knock anyone's work but those blocks look like an accident waiting to happen. It wouldn't take much of a side hit to knock them out.
 

joesco

Member
442
1
18
Location
Hampstead, NH
Perches and Springs from an older 5 ton commercial dump truck. No bounce at all, and I don't plan to haul anything, especially with Antique plates/tags. In NH, that would be a big nono! The blocks are welded and secured with 10 ton rated U-bolts. Sure hope I don't get t-boned as the t-boneer would not live to tell about it.
 

540fordman

New member
23
0
1
Location
pana, il
You've got a good start there. The lift blocks aren't a problem, especially since you have used traction bars to control any axle wrap, but at least cap the ends on the tubing. What concerns me most is the lack of bolts to the bottom of the frame on your spring hangers! Maybe they just aren't clear in the pic, sure hope so!
 
461
6
18
Location
Sandyston, NJ
Those blocks in my mind are an accident and law suit waiting to happen. There have been plenty of safe ways demonstrated on this site as far as bobbing and lifting trucks and I would say this is not one of them.
 

joesco

Member
442
1
18
Location
Hampstead, NH
Keep in mind, my buddy did the suspension work, I appreciate all the comments but would appreciate some suggestions instead of alarming the bejeusus out of me. Thank you 540fordman for suggesting I cap the ends. I don't see any bolts on the hangers bolting it to the bottom of the frame rail. Another SS member suggested you should never drill into the bottom of frame rail as it may weaken it. This make sense to me????
 

camoyj7

Member
927
18
18
Location
wonder lake IL
Didn't mean to scare you. I know stacking blocks is never a good idea. They could shift and pop out. Also make sure they have the locating pins. most blocks are a heavy cast iron with the locating pins cast into them. Using box tubing they could crush down. Without having the bolt in on the bottom of the spring hangers it looks like there is only two 1/2" bolts holding them on. Military trucks always get a bad rap so we need to try doing what ever we can to avoid an accident.
 

joesco

Member
442
1
18
Location
Hampstead, NH
Thanks for some technical suspension advise. You are right, after a closer look, here are my observations...
<> Yes,there are only (2) 1/2 bolts holding the two spring hangers on but I am wondering if the heavy-duty single spring which is bolted using four bolts and attached to very beefy plate the entire length of the two blocks would be the stress point
<> It appears the leafs are reinforced on the front /forward portion of the blocks with a solid steel support brace which is bolted to the single leaf support
<> It appears that the blocks are welded together
<> It appears that the two welded blocks were then welded on the bottom to a plate which wraps around and sits on the axle

In an effort to endure more stress, I took some addition closeup pics today and I going to post them. Any and all help is really appreciated. Thanks folks!

Didn't mean to scare you. I know stacking blocks is never a good idea. They could shift and pop out. Also make sure they have the locating pins. most blocks are a heavy cast iron with the locating pins cast into them. Using box tubing they could crush down. Without having the bolt in on the bottom of the spring hangers it looks like there is only two 1/2" bolts holding them on. Military trucks always get a bad rap so we need to try doing what ever we can to avoid an accident.
 

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joesco

Member
442
1
18
Location
Hampstead, NH
Suspension update.... I have had two experienced suspension "experts" out to look at my truck recently and the following comments / suggestions were made:
1) U-bolts are rated for 10 ton. The blocks are welded together and it would take a hit from a D-9 dozer blade to topple them!
2) 1" X 1" solid stock is going to be welded vertically inside each block and then capped with 3/8 plate welded to the ends. Pics will be posted.
Current leaf spring / suspension is rated for approximately six tons, but it is a mute point as I have registered +ZEUS+ as an Antique vehicle. One exception is that if I haul a couple of dozen very, overweight boy scouts, during one of my parade runs this Summer!
3) There was a concern about the spring hangers / perches not being bolted to the bottom of the frame rail. According to the 2 "experts", drilling into the bottom of the frame rail would weaken it. The holes in the perches which were to hold bolts were filled with weld through the hole in perch into the bottom of the frame, thus securing that portion of perch / hanger to the bottom of the frame rail.
4) As financial resources become available, my plans are to install additional leafs and install new hangers.
5) If I had to do it all over again, I would mod an M931A1 or A2, keeping the tandem rear end, remove the tool boxes/tire carrier and install a dropside bed, end of story!
 
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