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bobbing 1st deuce

oddshot

Active member
777
115
43
Location
Jasper, Georgia
... Another thing I learned from experience: make sure you have a thick enough plate between the lowest spring and the top of the axle so that the axle is not sitting on the bolt head that runs through the stack of springs. John
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE HEADS UP!!!


I am starting my bob job in 10 days. I *ASSUMED* that the axle would have had some sort of indent for the head of that bolt to fit in to as a locator as found in most automotive and light truck applications.


You just never know when something you say will help somebody else out around here!

oddshot
 

TJP

Member
169
0
16
Location
PHX/AZ
Excellent, Looks great that is how I will be doing mine. I like how the bed fits over the rear axle.
Thanks for the great pics.
TJP
 

oddshot

Active member
777
115
43
Location
Jasper, Georgia
I drilled through the bed and frame and bolted it.I think 6 bolts.
I made brackets from the left over pieces of the M35a2 chassis. Cut them to fit between the stiffeners under the M105 bed.

I used eight 1/2 inch dia. Carriage head bolts through the bed into the bracket.

1/2 inch hardware secures the brackets to the Deuce frame, two per bracket.

All that should be sufficient to keep the bed from blowing off in the stiff 53 MPH gale as I go rolling down the highway of life. (Sorry. You might want to ignore this bit. I'm not certain that its allowed by the rules)


I figured that bolting the bed down instead of welding it makes things a bit easier if you ever need to raise the bed to take the fuel pump out of the tank.

oddshot
 

WeBeJeepin

Member
123
3
18
Location
Jackson, MS
My method was similar to ODDSHOT's. I welded angle iron in between the stiffeners and used 1/2" grade 8 bolts to secure it through the mounts that were already on the frame of the truck. It hasn't fallen off yet! If I had it to do over again, I would have done the welding before I set the M105 bed on the truck. I had to cover the fuel tank with a leather cover for the sparks, and it was hard to get a good weld overhead when you are working behind the big tires.
 

oddshot

Active member
777
115
43
Location
Jasper, Georgia
I am planning to make a thread for my own build but i wanted the finished product to be getting close before I posted anything. Here are some pics of the bed gap that I took today. John
BTW ... THIS POST and its Pictures was the best piece of advice I got before slipping the bed onto the chassis.

This modification really snugs the bed up to the cab very nicely.

It really eliminates unsightly "gaposis".

oddshot
 

Awesome Possum

New member
212
0
0
Location
Central Texas
Did anyone incorporate springs into mounting their beds to the truck, as originally mounted? Is it really necessary? From other posts my conclusion would be a "no".
As for mounting the bed, I did search, but I'm hoping for that touch of brilliance someone has used that I've missed. Getting ready to mount the bed as the truck looks kinda' nekkid at the moment. Welding skills are limited to a Lincoln Weld Pac 100 wire feed (that I haven't used in 3-4 years), lots of drills, and a good relationship with the local bolt company. I've also put up my cutting torch for sale on Craigslist since I seem to be a danger to myself (my wife wholeheartedly agrees. Luckily no injuries yet:p). Getting the bed on the truck is going to take some figuring as well. We can do it,we always manage, but Badga and I would be grateful if someone's found that special trick they can share on any of this.
 

tgarrisoniv

New member
41
0
0
Location
Middleburg FL
well mine may not be one to take advice from but from previous trucks i have built and including this one, do not let the driveshaft lenght determine where your axle sits. i would place the bed on, measure springs, and make sure they are directly in the center before welding or bolting i guess in your case the mounts to the frame. i messed up and ended up having to go through 2 sets of mounts on the back on my deuce. oh well. it all worked out. As for placing the bed on the truck, i had my bed outside and placed a homeade lift (I beam and 4 legs with a chain winch on top) over top of the bed and lifted it right into place. its not as heavy as you think.
 

Awesome Possum

New member
212
0
0
Location
Central Texas
This idea sounds workable, maybe. Has anyone tipped the trailer onto it's tail and removed the bed, tipping it back, and supporting both the trailer tongue from falling forward (with a 2x4) , as well as keeping the bed from flipping backwards, again with 2x4's, then reversing the process, winching the bed onto the truck?

Written down like this, it sure sounds a lot worse than it did in my head. (Now you know why my wife worries.) Anyone gonna' admit to trying this? :cookoo:
 

Attachments

wilfreeman

Active member
1,082
7
38
Location
Richburg, SC
I am getting ready to get started on mine. I finally have all of the big parts together, now I am looking at the smaller things. For those of you that used front deuce springs and hangers, what size bolts did you use to mount them?

Here are a few other question:

1) As best as I can measure, the holes in the hangers are 7/16", so do I use 7/16" or drill out the mounts and use 1/2" for added the security?

2) It looks like I will need 1 1/4" in length also (Grade 8 of course).

3) Fine or course thread?

4) Nylock nut or lock washer/nut? (Nylock will require course thread from what I have been able to find.)
 

blackrock

New member
331
1
0
Location
Phoenixville,Pa
With my lift kit i require the use of 1/2inch bolts. So i drill out the original hanger for 1/2inch bolts.

I use course but that's really up to you.

I use lock washer and nut but again that is up to you.
 
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