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Bought 1st M101a2

MWMULES

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He is wrong. Use search there are a lot of threads on conversion on here, and yes you can.
 

Recovry4x4

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The dealer is either uninformed or trying to mislead you. Search the trailer forum for some real tight information.
 

buck

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I've gottem many A1, A2, and a few A3's through GL. None have ever had the 12 pin plug removed. Some have been damaged beyond use, but never removed.

It is very easy to adapt the existing wiring to civi vehicles though. Get yourself 4' of 4 strand trailer wire (heavier 7 strand actually works and looks better, but you only need 4 wires: ground, tail lights, and right and left blinker), what ever plug your towvehicle requires (I always use the large round 7-blade RV plugs), 1 pr of 1156 and 1pr 89 automotive bulbs (those are the ones I've used every time). Replace the 24 volt bulbs with the 12 volt bulbs in the light housings (on some trailers the top screw can be hard to get at and every once in a while a screw breaks off, it's not a big deal) but leave the lense covers off till you're done (makes it easier to see whats going on getting the wires hooked up right). Assemble the 4' piece of trailer wire and the plug end you've chosen so it can be plugged into the tow vehicle. On the trailer frame is a tin guard covering a connecting block, remove the cover to access the block (usually a philips screw or 1/4 " socket). Don't just pull them all out of thier holders. It may be much easier if you know where they are at to start with. The rest is really just trial and error for getting the wires hooked up right. Hook up to the tow vehicle and use the light and blinkers to determine the correct connections. The ground is easy, hook it up first. The other three wires you need (if still in the holders) are usually but not always the three toward the rear of the trailer. At this point it really helps to have a helper to watch the lights. If everything is correct, the 89 bulbs should be your tail lights and the larger 1156's should be your blinker and brake lights (brakes opperate through the blinker wires when completed).
If you would like I can get some pic of one of mine I've switched over tommorrow morning. Let me know if I can help.

Good luck.

This whole process takes me about 15-20 mins now, My first one took about 2 hrs.
 

rosco

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Just leave the pig tail there, now that the end is cut off, and put a 7 flat pin, RV plug on the end of it.

You can't get better wire then Uncle Sam used!!
 

buck

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Just leave the pig tail there, now that the end is cut off, and put a 7 flat pin, RV plug on the end of it.

You can't get better wire then Uncle Sam used!!
I agree the original is better, but I've found it easier and faster and cleaner to replace it to the connection block on the tougne frame. If discarding the original pigtail you can butt connect the old ends of the block to your new pigtail for a plug and play install. Also, the wires are coded for identification (can be found here by searching) but I've found they're not always correctly connected for whatever reason. Visual confirmation is always needed on connections so I just do it that way always.
 

wilfreeman

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No problem - I meant to post it when I found it, but got busy doing something else. It is a pretty straight forward way of doing it, although it is permanent too.
 

656owner

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Nice trailer Restore of Expo?
I am going to straighten the front that is pushed in and give it some fresh olive drab paint. Intend on pulling behind my M1009 project. And also use as a fire wood hauler.
The M1009 had its drive train removed before I got it, so I put a civilian wire harness and engine in it. Which is why I need the trailer to run on 12 volts.

And thanks all for the helpful info from everyone. Although my dial up is too slow to watch you tube.
 

cpf240

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The M1009 had its drive train removed before I got it, so I put a civilian wire harness and engine in it. Which is why I need the trailer to run on 12 volts.
Just an FYI - the CUCVs provide 12v to the trailer plug, not 24v like most other military vehicles.

May I ask how much the trailer cost you? Do you have the bows and cover?
 

656owner

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I gave $450. Front is pushed in some, no tarp bows or cover. No rust holes.
And my father came along also and bought a rougher trailer for $350. (group discount)
I had just bought the trailer did not do any thing to it yet.

And my M1009 project.
I had put in an stock 350 tbi in and TH350. But found a 383 stroker with a built up TH700R4 that I going to install now.
I am putting the CUCV rims back on. Put on a good tail gate.
 

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656owner

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I been using this trailer to haul fire wood, and did not want to scratch the new paint.So now I finally painted the trailer. I ran out of olive paint so I left the inside brown for now, the fire wood will mess it up any ways.I need to replace the tags yet. And tidy up the wiring. Perhaps restencil it.Banged all the dents out. It had a lot of loose paint to remove and surface rust. I boxed up the old lights and wiring. Added a new wire harness with tail lights. I never got the top bows or tarp.
 

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MarcusOReallyus

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Just leave the pig tail there, now that the end is cut off, and put a 7 flat pin, RV plug on the end of it.

You can't get better wire then Uncle Sam used!!
Yep!

That's exactly what I did with mine. A little work to figure out which wire was which, and a standard civvy 7 pin RV plug went on, 12v bulbs in the sockets, and I had a civilian 12v lighting system. It's a VERY easy job.

The 7 pin plug gives you the option of adding backup lights or maybe electric trailer brakes in the future.


If anybody wants the 12 pin military plug that I cut off, it's yours for shipping.
 

656owner

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I hooked my M101A2 to the M1008 for the 1st time today.
Put side racks back on, still want to touch those up.
Wiring still needs more tidying up.
I intend to use this for work and show. Mainly firewood hauling. And the truck the same plus snow plowing my drive.
My 2nd trailer has a M-116A2 on a tag located on the trailer tonge. (John Deere green colored)
 

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