Brake light switch replacement

[sellbooze]

My Deuce brake light switch stopped working and needed replacement. I bought a replacement kit from Erics Military supply for about $60. The kit came with the wrong size compression elbow for my truck. Kit comes with a 1/2 and I needed the 3/8. NAPA did not have this so I went down to Amazon Hose and Rubber in Tampa and picked it up for about $4. Kit also came with a threaded plug that you will use to plug up the hole where the old switch is removed from ; a brass elbow that has 1/2 inch male thread and two 1/2 female threads; pneumatic brake light switch with a 1/2 in male thread ; and two electric plugs that fit the new swtich . The plugs consist of two rubber boots , two plastic sleaves , and two connectors.
I will show how I did mine. If you have a better way please share with the class....
First located the Air Pack.



Then removed the skid/cover plate. After you remove the plate put one bolt back in to hold the Air Pack still and in place while you work on it. Unplug the wires from the old style switch , and remove switch.





When removing switch , have a towel and the plug for the hole ready so you dont spill too much brake fluid. this is what you should have.




Remove air line (and the reducer ,if you have the 3/8 line)




Teflon all the male threads except the compression fitting threads. You will have to put the first elbow on first , then the compression elbow.



Once its all together it will look like this.



Now install new switch , and install new compression fitting and reattach airline.

 

[sellbooze]

Take plug that was on old switch and cut it off. The new plug goes on as follows. Put rubber boot over wire , then the plastic sleeve. Strip wire and crimp on new connector. Pull boot and sleeve over connector and plug in to new switch.



I am sorry I did not take pics of the assembly of the plug , by this time I had consumed a few Yuengling's......
Now put your skid/cover plate back on.

DONE DEAL

 

[cranetruck]

Thanks for posting.
Here is the PS mag version (they mention that some trucks will need the 3/8" fitting).

 

[M35A2-AZ]

I had to do the same thing to my truck.

Good write up and pics on the repair!!

 

[armytruck63]

ARRGH! I have one of the new switches in my parts bin and didn't recognize what it was! I recently replaced my bad hydraulic brake light switch with another one.

In 41 years, if I'm still around and the new hydraulic switch fails, I will convert to the air switch.

Thanks for the write up!

 

[rpollitt01]

Nice job!...I think I'll do mine today!....I love a post with pics!

 

[steelandcanvas]

Thanks for sharing the task with text and great photos.

 

[cbvet]

Sellbooze,
You realize of course that your truck is apparently empty of all fluids. There can't be any other explanation for it being so clean!

Nice job. I recently did mine too.

 

[sellbooze]

Thanks guys ! I has a good time doing this thread. Next week I hope to do one on the replacement of parking brake springs and cable. Doing my research this weekend and will attempt the work this week.

 

[rpollitt01]

I'll be looking for that one!...Been trying to get my cable freed up for a week or so...Dont think it's going to budge!...

 

[bsorcs]

Excellent post; muchas gracias.

Just came out from under the truck...adjusing the parking brake prior to Tucson-to-New Orleans boat haul. Be advised that the adjustment sections of TMs 9-2320-209 [ch 13 para 13-7] and 9-2320-361-20 [ch 8 para 8-3.f] differ significantly in detail and info.

Had several issues. 1-I am missing the lock nut on the bolt to adjust the outer shoe...btw you need to unscrew to move the shoe toward the drum. Easiest access is from the front side, unless you have a very short ?11/16? wrench. I'll eventually put a jamb on at the other end, once I figure out what size nut is needed. 2-Had to adjust the nut on the cable end way down to get the requiste contact at thebottom of the inner shoe. At this point, the shoe kind of flopped around. Ajusted it some with the screw on the moustache spring, but still had flop. Additionally, the cable had a nylock on it! Not sure what's up with that.

It all seemed to be good once I tightened up the actuator handle a bit...we'll see. Will need to be changing the shoes soon, based on pad wear.

 

[JxxxOxxxE]

Received my kit today, went out and got it all put on except for the air compression fitting. Like you, I have the 3/8 line also. I guess it would be wise for someone doing this to check their line size first, maybe Erik's could substitute the right fitting if you let them know in advance...

 

[BlizzardX23]

I HATE the PS mag....it doesn't illustrate clearly, doesn't give step by step... Thank you very much for your useful post! This is an EXCELLENT "how-to"!! Thank you for the detailed pictures as well.

I just did this a few weeks ago...apparently whoever had the truck before me plugged the old hydraulic switch, but never installed a new air switch...just cut the brake wires and let them hang lol

 

[mcmullag]

hydraulic switch

My brake lights went out. Yesterday Bulldogmack13 helped me fix it since he has done this before. We went to NAPA and asked if they had a brake light switch for a 1987 AM General. The nice man behind the counter pulled out a book that had pics of switches in it. Bulldogmack13 picked out one by the pic and it worked. It is NAPA part # SL134. I cannot believe I lucked out like that.

 

[doghead]

A search on SS for "SL134" pulls up 8 other threads mentioning this switch. While it does fit and work, it is NOT approved for use with DOT 5 brake fluid(as noted by my post in this link) http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/30778-sorry-one-millionth-brake-light-question.html

I image many others have used the switch, but the manufacturer was clear, it is not compatible with DOT 5.

A conversion to an air activated brake light switch, is the best choice(and remove and plug the original switch port)

 

[tcruwithme]

Great thread - one of the best. Thanks everyone!

 

[brianp454]

About a year ago I replaced the switch for the brake lights. Well, it crapped out again, so I got the kit to install a switch in the brake air line (the one that is atmospheric pressure unless you hit the brake pedal and then it pressurizes the line per the governor regulation) and I have working brake lights again. I was confused as I was trying to figure out how to use everything in the kit, plus sort out the PS mag stuff. The kit has a 3/8 MNPT to ½ air line elbow and a 3/8 MNPT to 3/8 air line elbow in the event your truck has either size line. It seems Erik’s Surplus (great service) includes both connectors as it seems some have 3/8 and others ½ lines (maybe short and long air pack trucks respectively?). My truck only has ½ line from the compressor to the tanks. All of the rest of the air lines are 3/8 with exception of the control lines (such as the line to the governor) being ¼. Here’s how I did it with the SHORT air pack (exactly like sellbooze did).



This coupled with LED’s the running and brake lights are much brighter. Score one for safety!

There’s an issue with this thread in that there’s the info with the 1) the brake switch upgrade and 2) PS mag stuff. My truck already has the “upgrade” in the PS mag to add the vent breather up over the air cleaner. For me, I found the PS mag stuff confusing as it is not connected to the brake air circuit in question as far as I can tell. If your truck already has the PS mag upgrades, you don’t need to worry about it.

 

[jzettek]

My Deuce brake light switch stopped working and needed replacement. I bought a replacement kit from Erics Military supply for about $60. The kit came with the wrong size compression elbow for my truck. Kit comes with a 1/2 and I needed the 3/8. NAPA did not have this so I went down to Amazon Hose and Rubber in Tampa and picked it up for about $4. Kit also came with a threaded plug that you will use to plug up the hole where the old switch is removed from ; a brass elbow that has 1/2 inch male thread and two 1/2 female threads; pneumatic brake light switch with a 1/2 in male thread ; and two electric plugs that fit the new swtich . The plugs consist of two rubber boots , two plastic sleaves , and two connectors.
I will show how I did mine. If you have a better way please share with the class....
First located the Air Pack.
View attachment 270345


Then removed the skid/cover plate. After you remove the plate put one bolt back in to hold the Air Pack still and in place while you work on it. Unplug the wires from the old style switch , and remove switch.
View attachment 270346

View attachment 270347


When removing switch , have a towel and the plug for the hole ready so you dont spill too much brake fluid. this is what you should have.
View attachment 270348
View attachment 270349


Remove air line (and the reducer ,if you have the 3/8 line)
View attachment 270350
View attachment 270351


Teflon all the male threads except the compression fitting threads. You will have to put the first elbow on first , then the compression elbow.
View attachment 270353


Once its all together it will look like this.
View attachment 270352


Now install new switch , and install new compression fitting and reattach airline.
View attachment 270354

hey thanks for that write up i just picked up one of those switch's and was kind of wondering how too put it together and you made it look pritty easy thanks and take care bud

 

[frank8003]

Got real tired of expensive crazy stuff so installed an Haldex switch with an LED in the dashboard so I could see if the switch was functioning. It did not indicate if rear brake lamp filaments were actually functioning but it cured 90% of my problems.

 

[frank8003]

Got real tired of expensive crazy stuff so installed an Haldex switch with an LED in the dashboard so I could see if the switch was functioning. It did not indicate if rear brake lamp filaments were actually functioning but it cured 90% of my problems