Brake upgrades?

[FLASHMAN]

Well, I'm gathering a lot of info so far, so thanks to everyone for that. My next question pertains to brakes. Where can I go to get bolt-on brake upgrades? Better rotors, drums, possibly even a rear disc kit? Master cylinder, booster, lines? Most of the "upgrade" kits I've found are for lowered 1/2 tons with 5 lug axles that are trying to use 28" rims or some such nonsense...

I'm putting this all together, like I said in my other post to plow and tow, and keep in mind that I'm an overkill kind of guy, so a little "too much" is probably perfect.... Thanks for all your help

Dave

 

[flippydidit]

Dave,

I don't know for sure yet, since I'm still researching it myself. But a thought had come to my mind about finding something compatible from a dumptruck. I figure they have some mean brakes, and I'm very much an overkill kind of guy myself. I'll let you know if I find something useable.

Nate

 

[CARNAC]

May want to ask the question of retro-fitting an ABS system based on my recent accident.

 

[FLASHMAN]

May want to ask the question of retro-fitting an ABS system based on my recent accident.

I'm sure it can be done, odds are that the toughest part would be the speed sensors, and how to tie them in. Good question though... Consider it added to the thread...

 

[AJMBLAZER]

There's numerous kits out there to put rear discs on these trucks. Saves a ****load of weight too as these 1 ton drums are HEAVY.

 

[tsmall07]

My next mod is rear disks. I hate drum brakes.

There is no "kit" available that I'm aware of, but all the parts you need are "off the shelf" other than the caliper brackets. The links below contain all the information you need to complete the swap. The only issues I'm having now is that I have to have a mechanically operated parking brake to pass Virginia Inspection. I think I'm going to weld a rotor from a motorcycle to the drive shaft and use a cable caliper from a bike. I know it won't do anything to really stop the truck but it will get me past the inspection. Look into your state laws to see what you need to do.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_disc_brakes/

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=517960

http://www.greatlakeoffroad.com/disc.html

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/product_reviews.php?products_id=10

The bracket from great lakes off road costs a little more, but it is a true bolt on piece. The one from Ruff Stuff will need spacers. I think I'm going to do a weld on bracket because I can cut it myself.

 

[1stDeuce]

I converted my '96 GMC to disk brakes. Has the same 14 bolt FF rear that's in the CUCV. I used rebuilt cadillac calipers for a '78 Eldorado, but they didn't come with any of the parking brake hardware, and I still don't have it. Used rotors from the front of an early 80's 3/4 ton and brackets from the internet... There's a hundred online writeups to tell you how.

Now that I've done it, I wouldn't do it again unless it was for a mud truck, and then I'd just use 3/4 ton front calipers. The discs actually have LESS stopping power than the drums did, requiring removal of the prop valve... Still, they're less than ideal. The parking brake mechanism on the old caddy calipers has to be used in order to keep the calipers in adjustment too, so mine are way out at this point.

They are a bit lighter overall. And it was cheaper for me to convert than replace my wasted drums, cyls, and shoes... Really, the brakes on a 1-ton truck are very good if they're maintained... They'll certainly haul down anything you can manage to pull with a 6.2L. I'd recommend having the rotors turned and getting some grabby pads, not the junk that most discount parts places sell, but some good semi-metallic pads. I keep wondering if the "titanium" pads I see advertised are any good... Do a little online research about the brake lining codes that are stamped onto all new pads, and buy based on stopping ability, not life. (surface friction of the pad)

My $ .02
Chris

Post-edit... There are plenty of "kits" on the market. Just do a web search for "disc brake conversion 14 bolt".

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Yep, there are plenty of kits. However few have all the parts and it's generally cheaper to just buy the kits that have the non-parts store parts and then buy the rest at the parts store locally. TSM and Stainless Steel Brake are the big names out there but there's numerous places making the "lesser" kits that are just as good. I have several friends who have done it and know a bunch of folks who have done it on www.ColoradoK5.com and haven't ever heard anyone complain about it enough to want to undo it or wish they had never done it.

1stDeuce, did you change out your master cylinder or add a...dammit...suddenly the term escapes me...pressure regulator...damn...uhm...the thing that can be added in to the rear brake line to adjust the pressure for what the new rear discs would need? The stock master cylinders on these trucks just isn't right to run rear discs.
PROPORTIONING VALVE! That's it!

 

[tsmall07]

Yeah, you have to add a proportioning valve to get the rear disks to have power.

 

[1stDeuce]

Yeah, AJM and TSM, actually I had to gut the factory prop valve to get decent brakes at all. It was seriously limiting pressure to the rear brakes. (Drums need comparably less because they self-energize...

M1008's have a goofy load adjusting prop valve, so if you mess with the arm length, you might be able to balance the brakes a little better, or just rig it to full pressure.

My experience tells me the discs are less trouble than the drums, but probably not as HD for stopping unless you're using them to constantly head down a mountain, where quicker cooling is a big plus... Or I just got a weak hydroboost or something...

What would really be nice is the disc brakes from a newer GM with the 14 bolt... Those are some serious grabbers, and the drum in hat parking brake is nice too!! Big $$, but probably the best swap you could do. Might have to grab the M/C too... Discs use a lot more fluid than drums, and the newer M/C can handle this. That's what I'm working on at the moment...

C

 

[Crash_AF]

I'm putting 1008 axles under my 1/2 ton CUCV-burban... does anyone know if I have to swap the master cyl/booster too, or can I get away with the 1/2 ton parts?

Later,
Joe

 

[Recovry4x4]

Joe, just put 3/4t stuff under my 1/2t burb and the rears lock up pretty quick. I'm probably going to swap the combo valve. i'll let you know what I find.

Rear Discs! I fabricated all the stuff myself going back to probably 1984 or 1985. They were easier to maintain in the mud but nothing was gained in braking power. JW4x4 was around when I did this (unheard of at the time) conversion.