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breaks

chevy79k5

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ok guys on my m1009 the other night was driving came to a stop and the parking breaklight came on and right after that my break pedal got reallyreally soft almoste hits the floor now when you push it. the light has been on ever sence none of the breaks are locked just got a super soft pedal now and the ight wont go off. so any ideas of waht this may be would be great. thanks Ryan
 

Westech

CPL
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cow farts, Wisconsin
Yeah take it to your local Auto repair shop and have them fix the issue.

If you do not want to do that get a Repair manual and go from there.

I hope before posting you, checked the fluid, checked for leeks, took the drums off and inspected the wheel cylinders, looked at all the steel and rubber lines, check the calipers and inspected the master cylinder and proportioning valve for leeks, checked all the friction material and rotors for proper thickness. Did a little searching on Google or your favorite search engine on the issue at hand.


Love Westy.
 
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Barrman

Well-known member
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Giddings, Texas
A fast way to check which corner is the problem is to look under the truck at the inside of the tires. The one all wet is your problem. Buy new parts since calipers and wheel cylinders are only about a dollar or two more than the rebuild kits, remove and replace the broken part, bleed following the instructions in the -20 and have happy driving. Your really should think about replacing all the brake parts at the same time for around $100. They are 25 years old now.
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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Sounds like you have lost either the front or rear brake circuit. Look for a broken line or blown out wheel cylinder.
YEP that is the reason the light came on, the equalization valve sensed a pressure loss on one side.
The trouble shooting section in the TMs will cover ALL of this
From your first post, it sounds like you are STILLl driving the vehicle, if so WHY
 
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OL AG '89

Member
743
9
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Location
Kingwood, Texas
chevy,
you can't expect to drive one these WITHOUT knowing how the systems work. The break system brakes because of hidroolic pressure or the lick thereof.
they dont have the odbp hookup and no computers to diagnose and correct on the fli.
Get the TM's THERE FREE..... best $0.00 you'll ever spent
REED the trubleshouting sections and then if yo steel have questions ASK AWAY....:deadhorse:
edit.....
spelling errors intentional, hard to read but really needed it!!
 
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mr.travo

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Location
Comfort, TX
Ditto. Why risk an accident where you can hurt/kill yourself or someone else. We walk a thin line. The govt is looking for ANY reason to take our old Mil trucks off the road. Why give them any reason that we could of avoided? If you need any help, post up and someone can give you a hand in troubleshooting. Download and print/read the -20 and that will give you the step by step procedure. That's what I had to do.

My 2cents
 

mr.travo

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Sorry it sounded like we were coming down on you. It was just the way the thread took off.

Did you find your leak? Post up any findings.
 

chevy79k5

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libertyville il
bolth rear wheel cilnders were shot. so i replaces everything drove for a few miles and BAM blew a line along the fram rail. soooo new question what size is the hard line that runs along the frame. thanks Ryan
 

DokWatson

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Wasilla, Alaska
bolth rear wheel cilnders were shot. so i replaces everything drove for a few miles and BAM blew a line along the fram rail. soooo new question what size is the hard line that runs along the frame. thanks Ryan
You have some other serious issue if you are blowing hard lines. Take it to a shop.
 

OL AG '89

Member
743
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Location
Kingwood, Texas
DITTO!!!
How much rust is on this truck?
I have NEVER heard of one the hard lines blowing.... the rubber lines are much more likely to blow unless the hard lines are trashed inside and out.
The TM -34P should have the line sizes listed as well as parts numbers needed to replace.
 

original

Member
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Location
Pineville, West Virginia
If you can't trust the brakes your in trouble. Rebuild the entire brake system. It's not all that expensive if you do it yourself. Replace all lines. Remove, inspect, and flush out the porportional valve (rear), brass valve on the front bumper, and thouroughly clean the master cylinder. Flush entire system with dot 5. I used dot 3 (much cheaper) to flush out the new system, but you must ensure all dot 3 is flushed out with dot 5 before use.
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
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all im saying is RUST lot and lots of RUST and years of offroading.
It would have been nice to KNOW this information in the beginning.

You can bend you own lines or buy line pre-bent. The brake system is not a place to pinch pennies on. Is you life or someone elses worth a few dollars?

Here is a good place to get pre-bent lines.

www.classictube.com

I know they have M715 lines and should have M1009 lines. Call them and ask.
 
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ohfisherman

New member
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Location
cleveland, ohio
buy a coil of 3/16" steel line. it should be a 25 foot coil for around 30 bucks. that will cover fronts and rears from side to side. front to rear is 1/4". buy a few sections and put them together with unions. its super easy to bend steel lines if its a coil.
 
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