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the check valves aren't really needed, so once they are removed just forget about them.
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Bringing back to life a 2009 HMMWV M1165A1 from GovPlanet - total newbie, please help...
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And what do you recommend as a good parts cleaner? I didn't rinse/ clean the fuel filter casing with anything, just drained the diesel from inside, but I feel that maybe I should clean it/ rinse it with something, but I don't want to introduce any contaminants, what is the best?
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Ok, that makes things easier. Thanks!
Gamble
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40x15.5r20
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Looks good! I just eyeballed the tires, the picture is very dark and can't really see the wheels
There are several check valved and just to make sure I pull the right ones, I think you are talking about the two marked in the attached picture?
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I am about to install the fuel filter back, any recommendations on a good parts cleaner? (I am thinking of not introducing contamination) Or should I leave it alone, just draining the diesel from inside?
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I've used Kerosene as a parts cleaner before on diesel engine componets in the past. It's generally compatible with diesel. (I don't know if any agrees this is a good or bad idea on the HMMWV.)
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Kerosene and diesel are pretty close; Kero is just much more highly refined.
There shouldn't be any issues if mixed with regular diesel, but running it straight might not provide enough for the injection pump leading to premature failure.
JP-8 is a 100% kerosene fuel with additives, and these trucks were run on that for their entire military service life (or possibly not, but I know in Korea in my aviation unit it's what we always used)
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Ok, I got the Kerosene down.
And how about a spray/ aerosol type that evaporates?
Are you using anything like that?
And how about a spray/ aerosol type that evaporates?
Are you using anything like that?
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I like Auto Zone brand brake cleaner for certain applications.
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Ok, how about something for cleaning parts from the fuel system?
I am going by Autozone today to get some fuel line too.
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For parts of the fuel system you can blow out afterwards with compressed air, I buy denatured alcohol by the gallon from the hardware store.
If it isn't something you can blow/dry out afterwards, then diesel or kero will be fine.
If it isn't something you can blow/dry out afterwards, then diesel or kero will be fine.
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You live in California, they do not sell any decent parts cleaner in your state!
Gamble
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Not easy to tell from this drawing but I believe so. The check valves are on the passenger side in the rear of the truck on the fuel lines attached to the body of the truck above the frame rails. See encircled area.Looks good! I just eyeballed the tires, the picture is very dark and can't really see the wheels
There are several check valved and just to make sure I pull the right ones, I think you are talking about the two marked in the attached picture?
View attachment 850989
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Action
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They are at the front of the tank. Easily accessed from under the truck. You will see 4 metal lines on side of tank. 2 are just looped together. Leave those alone. The other 2 tubes lead to the check valves. About 12” in front of the tank. Closer to below the front seat.
Gamble
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Maybe they're easily accessed with a lift or a long needle nosed pliers but otherwise they were a pain in the hind parts to get out.
Action
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Use a razor blade to cut the rubber hose on the hard lines. And use diesel rated hose to put back in. Normal fuel hose from autozone is not rated for diesel.Maybe they're easily accessed with a lift or a long needle nosed pliers but otherwise theyvwere a pain in the hind parts to get out.
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You guys are awesome! I appreciate the help very much, and Action you read my mind about the fuel line, and when I am not sure about something I go full OCD so I researched the Autozone fuel line...it is NBR ( Nitrile Butadiene Rubber) rated SAE J30R7 which it shows recommended for diesel up to 50PSI, but of course nobody at the store had any clue. The Autozone web site lists the hose being Continental, but in store they had ArmorMark, also rated SAE J30R7 Made in Thailand, but I am looking to buy the Continental,which is Made in USA. It's only $1.99/ ft, here are the specs:
https://www.continental-engineparts.../Fuel-Line-PCV-Emission-Control-Hose-SAE-30R7
The J30R9 is rated at 100PSI and it works with B5, B10, B20 Biodiesels also , where J30R7 is not recommended for Biodiesel, this one is about $7-$10 per foot:
Continental Aftermarket - Passenger Car Aftermarket
Designed specifically for auto and truck fuel injection systems.
www.continental-engineparts.com
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Gamble
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Here's a pic of what you're looking for from under the truck.You guys are awesome! I appreciate the help very much, and Action you read my mind about the fuel line, and when I am not sure about something I go full OCD so I researched the Autozone fuel line...it is NBR ( Nitrile Butadiene Rubber) rated SAE J30R7 which it shows recommended for diesel up to 50PSI, but of course nobody at the store had any clue. The Autozone web site lists the hose being Continental, but in store they had ArmorMark, also rated SAE J30R7 Made in Thailand, but I am looking to buy the Continental,which is Made in USA. It's only $1.99/ ft, here are the specs:
https://www.continental-engineparts.../Fuel-Line-PCV-Emission-Control-Hose-SAE-30R7
The J30R9 is rated at 100PSI and it works with B5, B10, B20 Biodiesels also , where J30R7 is not recommended for Biodiesel, this one is about $7-$10 per foot:
Continental Aftermarket - Passenger Car Aftermarket
Designed specifically for auto and truck fuel injection systems.
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I see what you mean, they are buried deep in there, I will find them, now I know where to look. I promised the kids to take a break from the truck to spend time with them and will be back working on it next weekend. The new tires are arriving next week too, I wanted to go with 40s and change to Black Rhino Armory wheels, but everything is back ordered to January maybe longer. I looked also at Super Swampers SSR and IROKS 39.5 and those were also pushed past Jan 22nd and even March, I went with a set of standard 37s MT OZ for now.
Happy Thanksgiving everyone if we don’t talk before then