Broken Starter Bolt removed. Easiest method I've found.

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edpdx

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pick.jpg

Broke off a starter bolt. Here's a video I made of me extracting it without drilling or tapping in extractors. Not my idea- I found a Youtube video from a Mercedes Mechanic that had similar problem with his Suburban. His mechanic came up with this field expedient method. The pick I used was a scribe I made in 11th grade machine shop in 1975. First real use I ever got out of it.

https://youtu.be/vjCbZbOz7Dw
 
Last edited:

TGP (IL)

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I have good luck using that method on other bolts and starter bolts, over the years.

Contrary to popular belief, that's the reason why I never loc-tite my starter bolts.
And never had any come loose,and can't remember the last time one broke.
BUT it will probably be soon now:)

Tom
 

Barrman

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I always thought the knurling was there because that is the part that is supposed to be in contact with the aluminum starter motor nose. Being a US made part 35 years ago, tolerances were not exactly all that tight in the design and even looser in practice.

Plus, there is the support bracket on the other end of the starter to supposedly take all the shear forces off the starter bolts. If that bracket comes off or gets loose. Snap go the bolts right at the edge of the block.
 

chevymike

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The knurled part is to take up any slop space in the starter nose bolt holes, since alignment is critical to proper engagement and to prevent any possible movement. GM has been doing that for decades.
 

Barrman

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The stock direct drive support bracket went out of production a few years ago. Only available used now.

The reduction drive starter motor bracket is still available new.
 

cucvmule

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The knurled section of the starter bolt countersinks into the block starter bolt hole to clearance itself to create a non tolerance fit. That it is why new bolts should be used when replacing starter. Starter clearancing are very tight new, however the mounting surfaces on used rebuilt starters are sometimes machined for squaring surface to block fit then requiring starter shims. If bolt holes are oversize then another starter is advised.

Twist off bolts are usually from over tightening bolts, bolt stretch, or from side torque force. They are designed like sheer bolts to where they break before damaging the block.

Unbolting starters are critical on how they are lowered while removal is done. You should always hold starter against block until bolts are removed so that bending of the bolt at the start of threads are not damaged.

A misunderstood critical part of the engine that takes precise installation, and extra care is needed.
 

cucvmule

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I also like to add that looking up into the bolt hole to make certain that no grease has been accumulating inside hole so that bolt can not bottom out, causing a twist off.

When is the last time anyone has checked that? I know that I was guilty once, once. Any blind hole I will pick out to make sure silicon has not built up too much. Just the little things that can cause big problems, time delays.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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If it helps I have a few of the old direct drive starter support brackets. I also had a machine shop make me a few of the brackets. I like to trade if you are interested. Have a Great Day.
 

simp5782

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The spring hinge drill with a bit works really well too for those deep broken bolts to be able to get started so that an easy out can be used.

I always have had good luck using that and if they are stubborn then run a smaller bolt into the hole i drilled and just mig it to the broken bolt.
 

the skull

New member
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mt victory ohio
I drilled mine with a regular drill bit and it screwed in a bit. Then with a left hand bit, til it caught, and moved out a tiny bit.
Back and forth several times, and it came right out.:clinto:
 
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