OrangeElvis
Member
M1097A2. No brake lights, no blinker. Replaced blinker control arm - nada. Replace directional flasher module - everything works... for like an hour. Now back to nada.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
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Burning out directional flasher module?
- Thread starter OrangeElvis
- Start date
Is it possible you bought a knockoff flasher module?
Virtually all "aftermarket" HMMWV electronic parts are crap, unless you bought it from a reputable dealer, Kascar, HPG, MAC Motors or AMG you very likely bought crap.
I would have to study the schematics again but I do not believe the turn signal flasher has anything to do with the brake lights.
The above statement also goes for the turn signal switch, tons of knockoffs out there.
EDIT, the flasher has nothing to do with the brake lights, when the turn signal switch is in the neutral position the turn signal flasher is completely out of the circuit.
Virtually all "aftermarket" HMMWV electronic parts are crap, unless you bought it from a reputable dealer, Kascar, HPG, MAC Motors or AMG you very likely bought crap.
I would have to study the schematics again but I do not believe the turn signal flasher has anything to do with the brake lights.
The above statement also goes for the turn signal switch, tons of knockoffs out there.
EDIT, the flasher has nothing to do with the brake lights, when the turn signal switch is in the neutral position the turn signal flasher is completely out of the circuit.
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Use a multimeter to check alternator output, and input to the blinker module.
Buy ‘Merican!
OrangeElvis
Member
Thanks! This unit was purchased from Eric's Military Surplus. Is there a way to tell?
About a 99% chance they are knock offs, especially given the prices
Use a multi-meter to check power output of the alternator. Check the power INPUT and OUTPUT at the module and the lights. This tells you where a short or other problem may be. Erratic or inconsistent alternator output can affect smaller components, but still function in the vehicle.
Additionally, check for electrical output on the lights and the module when the module should NOT be on. If there is trickle down, that can cause premature failure also.
Additionally, check for electrical output on the lights and the module when the module should NOT be on. If there is trickle down, that can cause premature failure also.
I'd put a 10 amp fuse inline with the overall power feed to the directionals system.
Even with the 'real deal' parts, they are very prone to failure from even a bulb burning out and causing a very quick short.
Trailer wiring faults can cause a multitude of sins in the system as well.
Even with the 'real deal' parts, they are very prone to failure from even a bulb burning out and causing a very quick short.
Trailer wiring faults can cause a multitude of sins in the system as well.
OrangeElvis
Member
Good idea - thanks! Getting a crash course in reading diagrams and electrical trouble shooting!
Out of curiosity, anyone ever cracked one of these things open to see what is failing? I wonder how hard they are to repair... At $60+ a pop, it would be worth it.
The problem to begin with is you are only paying $60 for the turn signal switch, a real one is several hundred dollars.
The flasher is sealed but it can be replaced with a 24V civilian one pretty cheaply.
But if your brake lights are not working it is likely the turn signal switch, the three lever light switch or the brake light switch, you should figure that out before worrying about the turn signals., you need to break out the test light and chase the signal.
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OrangeElvis
Member
Considering signal lights and brakes worked initially when I replaced the directional flasher module, and I have a NEW three-lever switch I am guessing it is not the brake light switch but the module itself or something leading to module.
As for the generator, it currently is not feeding power. I have purchased a replacement regulator, but am wondering if it is the generator clutch, as it very occasionally shows to be charging the system- almost to the red. I charge batteries while Humvee is parked.
Long story short, I have a laundry list of upgrades and fixes and I don't plan to hit the electrical until I get the mechanical fan / new radiator / belt and water pump installed and then can spend a weekend diagnosing the electrical gremlins. No more new modules or switches or regulatos installed until I figure out the problem. I can't afford to keep replacing modules and regulators and such.
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You mentioned a "new three lever switch". You might should look carefully at that switch and where it came from. You could end up burning your truck to the ground...
I would start looking at bulbs. You may have fried bulbs because of the charging system maladys
OrangeElvis
Member
Previous owner replaced most bulbs with LED. I read where iridescent bulb in 3-way switch can cause issues, so I replaced it with LED as well.
Again, is the only way to tell the quality of a part from the vendor you purchase it from? That seems crazy. I thought Chinese parts had to be labeled as such... SMH.
Again, is the only way to tell the quality of a part from the vendor you purchase it from? That seems crazy. I thought Chinese parts had to be labeled as such... SMH.
No they are not marked, heck the gov gets sold chicom crap from time to time, they are very good at making the junk look legit, so yes the only way you can be reasonably sure you are buying the real deal is the dealer you buy it from.
Study the schematics and troubleshoot each problem to the device, never just throw parts at a problem, that is a good way to introduce more problems making it nearly impossible to figure out in the end. aftermarket or knockoff three lever, turn switches and flashers are notoriously total crap
OrangeElvis
Member
That's why I love and appreciate this place. Thank you!
OrangeElvis
Member
Is Eric's Military Surplus "reputable"?
OrangeElvis
Member
So, Kascar has an "aftermarket" flasher unit for like $70 and one for LEDs going for over $300. Why in the hell would anyone want LED blinkers that bad, lol?
What is your opinion of just replacing all the LEDs (other than headlights, those are great) with incandescant? Any "common wisdom" about this subject?
What is your opinion of just replacing all the LEDs (other than headlights, those are great) with incandescant? Any "common wisdom" about this subject?
By bulb in the 3 way switch, did you mean in the turn signal unit itself? If so, some of the flasher units won't work properly if all the bulbs are LED and you also put an LED in the turn signal lever assembly. Something to do with not enough load for the flasher unit, or the voltage polarity being reversed in the signal arm compared to most LED bulbs in the market.
Mine is a 2007 M1151A1. Replaced all of the the incandescent bulbs with LED’s. No problems and got to choose the instrument lighting color that I wanted. Probably less than $50 for the whole swap. Pleased.
OrangeElvis
Member
Yes, in the turn signal unit - the light that flashes to let you know you blinker is on. It currently just stays lit instead of blinking when turn signal is activated.
I SWEAR I read the opposite - that there was an issue unless you put an LED bulb in there. I may just bite the bullet and go with the OEM $500 unit and the $300 LED-approved module. Experienced posters have put the fear of God into me about the cheap Chinese parts (and made me rightly pissed off that they can sell products that are not clearly identified as foreign-made). The irony is the OEM looks like it is made out of cheap plastic, lol.
Any "legit" aftermarket alts out there before I drop nearly a grand on blinker hardware? I only care about performance, btw - I am not trying to replicate original build or museum quality. I know some people are into that. I am function over from - and value-minded when possible.
Thanks everyone for your input. I am taking it seriously and listening to wiser, more experienced owners as I am admittedly a neophyte to not only Humvees, but electrical and mechanical tinkering - but at 53 am wanting to learn!