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bypass filter systems

res0wc18

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Everett, Wa
RE: running one now...

you guys are right, i better just face the fact that nothing good is cheap anymore. So what systems work best for the cucvs. Also did you drill and tap the oil sampling valve? thats a great idea.Did you use some kind of selp tapping return fitting on the valve cover? Pictures? What are the amsoil kits filtering down to and what was the cost?
 

cranetruck

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RE: running one now...

The beauty about the bypass filter is that there is no limit to the micron size, even if it eventually gets clogged up it won't upset the regular filtering system and all oil will get filtered, it just takes longer.
I have a punch and selftapping hollow bolt coming for the oil pan return line. The filter I got from D-man is rated at 5 micron (NAPA 1749).
 

CCATLETT1984

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RE: running one now...

depending on what filters you get fot the amsoil kits, you can filter down to 1micron, but there normal bypass filters are 5micron. the bypass only kit is $170 and the dual base (a full flow and a bypass filter) is $214
 

pfarber

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Most ppl have no understanding of how even a regular plain ol oil filter works.. then throw in 'by-pass' and toilet paper filter... watch them try to be intellegent by making offhanded and somewhat witty remarks.

First: you still NEED a regular filter. You cannot run a bypass only filer. Your oil pump's volume and pressure would rupture the by-pass filter, come out the overflow, or simply bypass the by-pass due to a relief valve lifting.

Second: the VAST MAJORITY or oil filters are toilet paper.. also know as cellulose (ie wood pulp). Next time you change the oil filter crack it open... TA-DA!!!! PAPER! Unless you have a specialty filter... they are all TP filters.

Third: Unless you have a fleet or diesels to maintain the savings of a by-pass filter due to reduced oil changes is minimal. One study over 3 years at INL (6 diesel Tahoes) saved less than $500 per ($2100 for by-pass vehicles vs $2500 for non-by-pass filtered) vehicle over 3 years. Those where security vehicles that had 3000 mile scheduled maintenance. The jist is that you can extend the complete oil change to every 12000 miles, instead of every 3000. This was confirmed by oil analysis to let them know when it was time to change. BUT you have to change the by-pass filter every 3000, and add a quart to make up for the loss.

SO TECHNICALLY you can save money and decrease the wear on an engine with a by-pass filter. BUT on a single vehicle driven less than 12,000mi a year you will save what, $25/yr. You will use less oil (only 9 qts per year vs 18 qts if you do 3 full oil changes)
 

CCATLETT1984

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pfarber said:
Most ppl have no understanding of how even a regular plain ol oil filter works.. then throw in 'by-pass' and toilet paper filter... watch them try to be intellegent by making offhanded and somewhat witty remarks.

First: you still NEED a regular filter. You cannot run a bypass only filer. Your oil pump's volume and pressure would rupture the by-pass filter, come out the overflow, or simply bypass the by-pass due to a relief valve lifting.

Second: the VAST MAJORITY or oil filters are toilet paper.. also know as cellulose (ie wood pulp). Next time you change the oil filter crack it open... TA-DA!!!! PAPER! Unless you have a specialty filter... they are all TP filters.

Third: Unless you have a fleet or diesels to maintain the savings of a by-pass filter due to reduced oil changes is minimal. One study over 3 years at INL (6 diesel Tahoes) saved less than $500 per ($2100 for by-pass vehicles vs $2500 for non-by-pass filtered) vehicle over 3 years. Those where security vehicles that had 3000 mile scheduled maintenance. The jist is that you can extend the complete oil change to every 12000 miles, instead of every 3000. This was confirmed by oil analysis to let them know when it was time to change. BUT you have to change the by-pass filter every 3000, and add a quart to make up for the loss.

SO TECHNICALLY you can save money and decrease the wear on an engine with a by-pass filter. BUT on a single vehicle driven less than 12,000mi a year you will save what, $25/yr. You will use less oil (only 9 qts per year vs 18 qts if you do 3 full oil changes)
1st: we are discussing adding a bypass filter to the engine, in no way are we talking about modifying the original oil filter.

2nd: while most filters do use paper media, it is actually designed for that application and the fibers are tensioned and aligned for that purpose, TP is not.
Also TP has lots of loose fibers and lint in it, do you really think that oil filters can have that same loose tolerances.

3rd: The main reason that we would put a bypass filter on the trucks would be to reduce engine wear, getting particles >5micron out of the oil would end most engine part wear.

Most of what we do to the trucks doesnt pay for itself very quickly if at all over the limited time that we operate them ( I am an exception in that i use my truck as a daily driver). Most of our modifications are for peace of mind.

I would rather waste $170 on a bypass system for my truck that i (may/ may not) need, than have my turbo bearings get wiped out by some particulates in the oil, since i would cost ~$400 to have rebuilt assuming that the housing was salvagible.
 

pfarber

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Nothing I said mentioned modifying the original anything. I said running ONLY a by-pass filter is not good, for the reasons I stated.

TP filters are DEPTH filters. The oil runs DOWN the length of them. Regular oil filters push oil through the 'flat side'. Regular oil filters need that special characteristic because there is so little element to do the actual filtering.

You are confusing the type of TP required for use. Yes, Charmin is fuzzy, and pink, and has pafume in it. The industrial TP you need to use is nothing more than a sheet of paper. You know, that really bad stuff at the public toilets? That stuff. If you find fuzz in that TP run away!

Plus by-pass filters have screens etc (as do some regular filters) to keep large chunks in the filter. They are simply devices, but no something as simple as a wad of paper in a metal tube. Give them SOME credit.

I agree that bypass filters are good. I do not believe that they are cost efficient enough to warrant their costs. The study I quoted has had no oil related engine failures before or after the by-pass test. Regular maintenance (ie full oil changes) are doing their job.

Are you removing soot and sub micron particles from the oil? Sure. Are you prolonging engine life? No, not when comparing by-pass to scheduled maintenance.

You do know that at about 3500+ RPM neither your bypass OR conventional filter are filtering anything? The volume and pressure of the pump at high engine RPMS will bypass BOTH filters.... so your turbo will STILL get dirty oil.

I would spend money on a pre-lube system before a by-pass system.
 

cranetruck

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pfarber said:
......
You do know that at about 3500+ RPM neither your bypass OR conventional filter are filtering anything? The volume and pressure of the pump at high engine RPMS will bypass BOTH filters.... so your turbo will STILL get dirty oil.....quote]

Beyond the range of the multi, but still, expand on this, please...
 

CCATLETT1984

New member
3,507
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Location
Saint Clair Shores, MI
pfarber said:
Nothing I said mentioned modifying the original anything. I said running ONLY a by-pass filter is not good, for the reasons I stated.

TP filters are DEPTH filters. The oil runs DOWN the length of them. Regular oil filters push oil through the 'flat side'. Regular oil filters need that special characteristic because there is so little element to do the actual filtering.

You are confusing the type of TP required for use. Yes, Charmin is fuzzy, and pink, and has pafume in it. The industrial TP you need to use is nothing more than a sheet of paper. You know, that really bad stuff at the public toilets? That stuff. If you find fuzz in that TP run away!

Plus by-pass filters have screens etc (as do some regular filters) to keep large chunks in the filter. They are simply devices, but no something as simple as a wad of paper in a metal tube. Give them SOME credit.

I agree that bypass filters are good. I do not believe that they are cost efficient enough to warrant their costs. The study I quoted has had no oil related engine failures before or after the by-pass test. Regular maintenance (ie full oil changes) are doing their job.

Are you removing soot and sub micron particles from the oil? Sure. Are you prolonging engine life? No, not when comparing by-pass to scheduled maintenance.

You do know that at about 3500+ RPM neither your bypass OR conventional filter are filtering anything? The volume and pressure of the pump at high engine RPMS will bypass BOTH filters.... so your turbo will STILL get dirty oil.

I would spend money on a pre-lube system before a by-pass system.
the bypass filter will still do its job, since the filter block has a restrictor on outlet to decrease flow enough so the filter can do its job.
 

CCATLETT1984

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[qoute="http://filtrationsolutionsww.com/faq's.htm"]With the FS-2500 filtration system, a small percentage of oil is directed through the filtration system totally independent from the full-flow system. Since the FS-2500 filters at a much slower rate and is not responsible for supplying the oil for lubrication, it is possible to insert a very dense element that will trap the microscopic particles that slowly grind away the precision moving parts of the engine. The cleaned oil is then returned to the oil pan. The FS-2500 will also remove contaminates which produce sludge and acid build-up (namely water and carbon particles).[/qoute]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=6581
 
I would like to jump in on this. Even though my truck is a daily driver. my mileage per season is less than the mileage that precludes an oil change. In other words, I have to change from summer oil weight to winter oil weight and so on, more often than the millage dictates. A by-pass filter would make no sense.
 
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