Bypassing gp controller

sht2kll

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Spring Creek / Nevada
Howdy all: I want to thank all of you for all the information and knowledge you bring and share on this forum. It has helped me soooo much with my M1008. I want to remove the 24volt part of the electrical system for easier maintenance. I want to remove the GP controller and put a pushbutton in. Has anybody done this? do you just bypass the controller with a switch? do you use a relay with the pushbutton or let it carry the load? If so what kind of amperage will be on this switch? Thanks again for all the help you have given me. Tom
 

steve87

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Layton, Utah
i just wired a cheap momentary toggle switch into the cab. i have one end grounded and the other going to the relay. I think the switch is only like 5 or 10 amps, don't really think you need anything bigger if it is going to the relay.
 

truck0590

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Manassas, VA
I did the same thing. Bought a black rubber covered starter switch for auto zone (4.99) and wired 1 end to ground the other to the Glow Plug relay where the blue wire was located. Disconnected blue wire (goes to GP controller/module).

Search 'manual glow plugs' and you will find several threads.

Truck
 

beanman1

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in the south
please check to see if your relay is working just because you hear the click does not mean it is working get a test light to see if you have power at both terminals
 

sht2kll

Member
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Location
Spring Creek / Nevada
Thanks for the help. I am going to get a switch. I am trying to make this beast as neanderthal as possible. I will leave the wiring intact, but I want to eliminate things that will leave me stranded. I am going to make it 12V. I can not find brushes, bearings or solenoid for the 24V starter, but I have them for 12V starters. I also have the parts to rebuild the alternator. I have no use for 2 of them or the need for 24Volts.
 

Crash_AF

Active member
1,536
4
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
You could pull the entire wiring harness and controller card out intact and sell it for a decent amount if it functions properly. Same with the starter.

I would personally hold on to the second alternator as a spare, but if you wanted to simplify, sell both isolated ground alternators and get one from Autozone with the non-isolated ground.

You could probably get $500 for all of those parts if not a little more.

One more simplification you could do is remove the Starter relay under the dash. Just jump the purple wire to the purple/white wire in the plug (or cut and splice it if you don't care about originality).

To rewire the glow plugs for 12V, disconnect the wire at the resistor on the driver's side and move the wire to the diamond shaped junction block just above the relay. If you remove the entire glow plug wiring harness, run a 12V wire from that same block to the small terminal that had the pink wire. Then run a ground wire from the other small terminal to your switch, and then the other side of the switch to ground.

To make the Wait light function might take a little doing without the card, but the simplest way would be to try splicing a wire from the switch (same side as from the relay) to the dark blue wire in the small plug under the dash that you disconnected the whole glow plug harness from.

You might also have to put 12V to the pink/black wire but I think that it already has the power running to the light and that small plug at the same time.

Later,
Joe
 

Sgt Hulka

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Location
San Francisco CA
Once I converted to full 12v and got a good GP card, my starting has been rock solid in both my M1009s down to 25 degrees... According to my research, the thing that blows the GP cards most often is 24v going places it shouldn't...
 
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