Can I shoot red oxide over epoxy primer?

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ida34

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I was reading my new supply line and David Doyle keeps coming up with the pertinent articles. I will need to spray my M151A1 in the near future. After reading the article I was thinking about down epoxy primer first (I am stripping the body down to bare metal). I then going to do the filler where my patch panels are. Just enough to do the job and no more. I then planned on putting red oxide over the top to keep the original look. My only other plan was going with the red oxide only but the advantages of the epoxy primer would help me out with the body work and filling in the sanding scratches and such. Can one of the experts tell me if red oxide (gillespie synthetic enamel) is ok over the body filler and the epoxy primer. The primer will be Urethane most likely.
 

m16ty

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Don't know about putting red oxide over in but epoxy primer but I will tell you epoxy primer is some good stuff. It's not cheap but is tough as nails. I used to use it all the time on old tractors. It will also fill small imperfections. I have a feeling what you are wanting to do will work but you will loose some of the qualities of the epoxy. Paint bonds very well with epoxy but I tend to think you will loose some of that with a layer of red oxide between the epoxy and topcoat.
 

ida34

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I may get the epoxy tinted. I also found some red oxide colored epoxy. I was originally just going to use the red oxide exclusively but the article had me rethinking. I have used the epoxy before and it worked great. I will have to see if it is cheaper to get the stuff tinted or get the already red stuff. I will use the Gillespie red oxide for the trailers.
 

Armada

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I 'd also vote to go with just the epoxy primer, Chuck. It has great adhesion properties, and will give a smoother base for the topcoat. The only epox primer I've ever used has been red oxide colored, didn't know it came any other way.
 

ida34

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All the stuff I have use and the stuff I have on hand is Gray. Where did you get yours? Locally or did you send away? If it was locally clue me in to that price.

Thanks
Chuck
 

waayfast

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Get with your local PPG dealer.I use their DP40/401 epoxy primer all the time.Comes in red oxide, gray, white, graygreen or black.VERY versatile stuff. I use it over bare steel, then put the filler over that(bondo right on bare steel used to be done for years but this new way is better because bondo is actually porous and can allow moisture to be trapped under the bondo against the steel=rust eventually).Then use a urethane type primer surfacer (K-36 Prima)for your "sanding type primer" to finish out the body work.Prima can be tinted which down the road is nice because eventually you WILL get chips and scratches but at least the primer surfacer will be close to the same color and the chip won't show as bad.Then reduce the DP40/401 Epoxy properly to be used as a sealer (versatile= don't have to buy another product). Spray your sealer then WHATEVER system topcoat you like-DP is just about bullet proof as a sealer.I did the above for prep on "Auntie M"(avatar) then used Gillispie for topcoat but could have used any system for final color.
Pot life for DP (once mixed)is 72 hours so you get plenty of time to do what you gotta do or if you get delayed-(oh man, just got a cup mixed ready to spray the lite guards on the Cletrac and my compresser was abducted by aliens).Once applied you have up to 7 days to get the final topcoat sprayed.Longer than that and you have to sand the surface for adhesion.So if you get it all sprayed then something delays you ,you got some time.
Good stuff,simple and don't have to buy 27 different dang products(and support supplies-reducers,catalysts,etc).Of course you'll want to get with your PPG guys so they can help with any questions. I would add that using a urethane (2 part-catalyzed) primer surfacer -K-36 Prima- is the ONLY way to go. The old lacquer style (if you can still get it ) aint worth the time or money to screw your job up with.
Jim
 
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