Carb question

[MASH 4077]

Changed out the needle & seat. Now it will not start! It ran before I took it apart. I checked the float before I put it back together and I thought it was right. Help please??

 

[mobileauto2000]

Pour just a little fuel in the carb and see if it fires. If it does your not getting fuel. The needle is ether stuck, not installed right or the float is not adjusted right. If it does not fire off you are probably flooded.
No matter how you slice it your most likely going back into the carb. Sorry

 

[MASH 4077]

Ok I got it to run. I went back to the old needle & seat. Got it running and doesn't want to run smooth. I took it for a drive and when driving down the road it falls on its face like it has no fuel. Suggestions?

 

[scoutmanadam]

When you tore the carb apart did you blow all the channels out with compressed air and clean everything real well. The first couple i rebuilt acted funny because i was cleaning them with a rag and it would leave little fibers in the wrong places

 

[swiss]

We need a few more details,

1.) What carb are you working on, please clarify vehicle
2.) What exactly did you do in your change out?
3.) How much did you rip apart?
4.) You took it apart for a reason, what was it doing before

the more details the better answers you will get.

 

[MASH 4077]

52 M38A1, its a Carter YS model, it was running real rich. I reset the float and put in a new needle & seat. Now I've gone back to the old needle & seat and now its acting like it has no fuel when driving down the road. I'm going to reset my float again and go from there.

 

[RedbeardTheZombieHunter]

You have a couple options at this point. Aside from total carb rebuild, get a can of carb dip, tear down the carb and dip the parts in the cleaner per the instructions on the can. One of our old tricks when we suspected a clogged orifice in a carb, (assuming the fuel pump is good, there's no crushed hard line between the tank and the pump and the pickup screen in the tank isn't clogged) get the engine started with the air cleaner off, then rev the engine up from the throttle on the side of the carb. As soon as you get the RPMs up, snap a flat hand palm over the intake tightly for a second with the throttle wide open and use the engine's vacume to suck any clog out of the metering orifices. Leave the throttle open till the RPMs start to come back up and the exhaust smoke clears. You may need to do it a couple times and then try a test drive and see if that cures the problem. If this doesn't change things, try taking the gas cap off and put an air blower to the line from the pump to the tank and see if it blows through to the tank. If you put air to it for a few seconds, pull the air blower from the line and the air pressure comes out of the line back at you, get her up on jack stands and visually inspect the hard line from the fuel pump end to the tank. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN YOU DO THIS SO YOU DON'T GET A GASOLINE EYEWASH! (no fun at all) I had a 68 mustang years ago that would run great for about a block and then fall on it's face. I changed the fuel pump twice, rebuilt the carb twice and no change. Finally I got under the car and inspected the fuel line. The problem was the hard line had a 1/4 inch crushed spot right under the driver's seat. (steep driveway skirt or high speedbump). I cut the crushed spot out, replaced it with a piece of rubber hose and secured the line back up on the inside of the frame rail and the problem was solved. I hope this helps, and good luck!
If you have any questions about any of the steps I described, PM me and I'll help with any advise I can give.