CARC spray cans?

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cbvet

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Just picked up a Deuce with the green/brown/black CARC paint.
Needs some touch-up.
Is there any spray can paint available that matches well?
Can anyone tell me the paint color numbers?

Thanks for the help!

Eric
CBVET
 

wsucougarx

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Are you looking for genuine CARC paint or something that just matches CARC paint? As Chris mentioned, Rapco does have the CARC-substitute paint in rattle cans. I think they want 12 cans/$60. I am unaware of any places selling CARC in a rattlecan to non-military customers.
 

Cucvnut

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how come everything with a MV is a crap shoot lol :( i am looking for tan and i dont see any under 250 bucks for 12 cans thats to much for me :(
 
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jpcj-7

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The Rust-Oleum Camouflage Spray also works very well for khaki (tan), the Forest Green isn't bad ether. It is about $4 at your locally owned hardware store.:wink:
 

swbradley1

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I personally like the Rapco 383 in the rattlecans. I think you can do a whole Deuce outside in about 20 cans. I haven't tried it, yet.

Just did part of the front so far.
 

Scotty78

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I personally would not recommend actual CARC paint, as it is a highly toxic cancer causing agent, requiring excessive PPE and ventilation for application. Good ole rattle can store paint usually works fine. Just my 2 cents.......
 

Maverick1701

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I personally would not recommend actual CARC paint, as it is a highly toxic cancer causing agent, requiring excessive PPE and ventilation for application. Good ole rattle can store paint usually works fine. Just my 2 cents.......

I dont really want to have to find a paint gun/learn to use it etc rattle cans would be much much easier/cheaper for me.
Do you have to go through and sand everything 1st like a normal car? (because that is A LOT to sand before painting)

I looked through the TM but only found info on spraying w/spray gun and the patterns to paint camo (I want to go from OD to tan so it really doesn't help)
 
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MARCO1031

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Look for the "King of the rattlecan" thread on this site. Lots of discussion and great pics. I plan on picking up some of the Rapco CARC substitute when I get ready to touch-up my 1031.
 

Maverick1701

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Jones

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CARC is tough to replicate. In order to coat small parts like radio mounts and interior light brackets, I took a part with fresh CARC on it into my local Sherwin-Williams Industrial guys. After scanning it with their computer, and with the FS595b number in hand, it still took them two tries to get a match (pretty much by eye).
Seems Sherwin-Williams' own system has a hard time recognizing the shade and tint because of the IR absorbing and non-photoreactive nature of CARC.

A real CARC touch-up kit consists of a small glass jar for the CARC along with a spray head that takes the jar and a can of propellant.

Unless you're planning on hiding from FLIR equipped shopping carts at WalMart, CARC is a lot more trouble than it's worth. And that's coming from someone who shoots the stuff.
 

swbradley1

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Do you have to go through and sand everything 1st like a normal car? (because that is A LOT to sand before painting)
I saw a very nice bobbed truck and all he did was pressure wash it first. He said he would do it again for every truck he painted.

Heck, the military used brushes for painting and pop rivets for body work on the Deuces so how bad a job could you do to mess that up?

;-)
 

RsqVet

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Quick question --- I know CARC is more toxic / hazardous than anything you will find at wal - mart or your local hardware store.

However how does it compare with other heavy industry coatings such as 2 part epoxy paint etc? Have had some of this on various projects and they paint guys did not seem more worried about it compared with what they usually wear for paint application.

In other words is CARC worse than industreal paint or is it simply that most people don't routinely use either or deal with the associated risks.
 

waayfast

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The only thing more time consuming and tedious than prepping a vehicle properly for paint-- is prepping properly for paint AFTER chipping ,grinding,sandblasting,cussin' and screamin' trying to get a flaking ,peeling, chipping layer of paint off the dang thing that someone put on without proper prep.ANY mv is a #itch to paint because of all the weird angles, bracket, doo-hickys,odd shapes etc.,why would anyone want to put themselves thru THAT agony more than once is beyond me! If ya aint time to do it right the first time when are ya gonna find the time (and money for more materials)to do it again.:roll: Spray cans are ok within reason but buy the Gillispie in gallons-40$cheap- and learn a new skill(paint gun). I sprayed the 383 green and brown and used NAPA flat black rattle cans. For the proper pattern of CAMO I studied a few trucks on GL(yeah where'd they dissapear to anyway??!!)then printed pics of one (all angles) to hold in my left hand while the right ran the paint gun to get a good pattern.(They seem to be all similar but all are slightly different I noticed,so close works!)Hopes this helps--been painting since I was a kid(and its been a LONG time since I was a kid!!:p).The truck in my Avatar is the one ,Be aware I just painted the cab to match the A3 bed that came with the truck.
Waayfast
Jim
 

Jones

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The whole idea of CARC is to create a continuous coating for a military vehicle that's impenetratable and won't let chemical agents soak into it's surface even though it's a flat finish. The reason behind CARC primer isn't to make the CARC stick better, it's because the primer has he same sealing properties as the top coat. Think of it as dipping your truck in Plasti-Dip tool handle coating.
In the FS595b color book; 383 Green is 34094, 383 Brown is 30051, Flat Black is 37030, and 686A Tan is 33446.

CARC is an epoxy paint requiring either a "part B" catalyst, or in the case of "one-part CARC" the moisture in the air.
Therein lies the first hazard; inhaling CARC as it's curing will allow it to harden in your throat, bronchial tubes and lungs.
The second hazard of CARC is all the silicas added; ground quartz, ground cristobolite, chromium, green spinel-- all good at causing lung ailments up to and including cancer(s).
The third hazard is in sanding when these silicas are released as fine dust for you to breath.

For applications, a positive pressure respirator is mandatory if you want to stay healthy.
A spray booth with positive pressure and filteration is smart or any breezes will carry the spray and can expose your kids, pets, wife, your neighbor's kids, pets... you get the picture.
For sanding, you'll want a good filter respirator like a Norton or similar, NOT a paint and dust mask like you'd get in a hardware store 10 for $5.00 pack.
 
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