CDR valves - Whos got em?

[PaulbusMax]

Sounds a lot like a PCV valve. Except bigger.

 

[CUCV85]

This may seem silly, but to clean parts with rubber in them, wouldn't it be better to use brake cleaner? I have been using it for years to clean any parts consisting of rubber, and then usually I will spray them off with silicon oil to add some protection. Makes them look pretty as new usually.
Discuss?

Sounds correct, I just use wd 40 or PB Blaster on everything works wonders. I have heard of guys using Diesel fuel to soak it a few days, flush out with diesel best they can and reinstall...

 

[143SE8]

CDR Valves

I have a bunch.
Jim ja8ba@aol.com
Do not IM me, I do not get them.

 

[Incredilion]

I have a couople of questions for you guys, if you don't mind.
I have an M!1009, 96,000 miles. It has blowby from the filler cap; so I took off the CDR & took a look at it. I guess I'm just not that bright, but airflow through mine is totally unimpeded. I took off the filler cap, and I can see how it works, if there's pressure, it releases the pressure; so you get blowby.
My question...?
I looked at the air cleaner on mine, and the air cleaneritself is sitting metal to metal against the intake. Do any of you good folks know if there's supposed to be a grommet or rubber "o" ring between the intake & air cleaner? The reason I'm asking is because if the intake is supposed to produce a slight vacuum, I don't know if it could do it without6 a decent seal.
Also, insde of the intake, you can see the oil laying in it as a black film. It's not puddled or anything, I just wonder if this is pretty normal?
My truck runs GREAT. I actually bought tow of these, and I have this one up for sale right now, but 'm thinking of keeping it, I like it so darn much.
Any advice truly appreciated.
Chris

 

[akonitony]

I have a couople of questions for you guys, if you don't mind.
I have an M!1009, 96,000 miles. It has blowby from the filler cap; so I took off the CDR & took a look at it. I guess I'm just not that bright, but airflow through mine is totally unimpeded. I took off the filler cap, and I can see how it works, if there's pressure, it releases the pressure; so you get blowby.
My question...?
I looked at the air cleaner on mine, and the air cleaneritself is sitting metal to metal against the intake. Do any of you good folks know if there's supposed to be a grommet or rubber "o" ring between the intake & air cleaner? The reason I'm asking is because if the intake is supposed to produce a slight vacuum, I don't know if it could do it without6 a decent seal.
Also, insde of the intake, you can see the oil laying in it as a black film. It's not puddled or anything, I just wonder if this is pretty normal?
My truck runs GREAT. I actually bought tow of these, and I have this one up for sale right now, but 'm thinking of keeping it, I like it so darn much.
Any advice truly appreciated.
Chris

Uhh... Don't eat yellow snow!?!?!

 

[67_C-30]

I have a couople of questions for you guys, if you don't mind.
I have an M!1009, 96,000 miles. It has blowby from the filler cap; so I took off the CDR & took a look at it. I guess I'm just not that bright, but airflow through mine is totally unimpeded. I took off the filler cap, and I can see how it works, if there's pressure, it releases the pressure; so you get blowby.
My question...?
I looked at the air cleaner on mine, and the air cleaneritself is sitting metal to metal against the intake. Do any of you good folks know if there's supposed to be a grommet or rubber "o" ring between the intake & air cleaner? The reason I'm asking is because if the intake is supposed to produce a slight vacuum, I don't know if it could do it without6 a decent seal.
Also, insde of the intake, you can see the oil laying in it as a black film. It's not puddled or anything, I just wonder if this is pretty normal?
My truck runs GREAT. I actually bought tow of these, and I have this one up for sale right now, but 'm thinking of keeping it, I like it so darn much.
Any advice truly appreciated.
Chris

There is a gasket that goes under the air cleaner. Advance, Auto Zone, etc sells them for civi models. A black film is inside the intake is pretty normal as is a little blowby. I've had 30,000 mile 6.2's all the way to 330,000 mile engines, and they all had a little blowby with oil cap off.


As far as cleaning the, I've used WD-40 and PB Blaster, but nothing works better than diesel fuel mixed with a little acetone. The "creeping" effect of the diesel is aided by the fast evaporation of the acetone. In fact, this concoction makes a better penetrating oil than anything you can buy in a can. If you have something very old or rusty than you have to take apart, you can drop some on the rusty, crusty bolt a few days before you try to busdge it and the area around the bolt will have a film of the diesel on it. It will actually creep uphill.

 

[akonitony]

Brake fluid, and not the silicone kind, is also a great penetrating fluid.

 

[Incredilion]

Thank you; kindly, for the information.
I'll get a gasket tomorrow, but on the CDR itself, what are you guys doing; taking the CDR off & then pouring the mix into it, and let it sit? I took mine off, and like I said, it did't seem like there was any kind of obstrucion, am I missing something here?
The diesel & acetone is a great tip, thanks. I have an old Lister Engine I'm working on that has some pretty stuck parts that I'll use that on.
I put 235/75/15 studded tires on it o get up my hill in the snow, and it goes great, but I lost about 2 inches in hight, and a lot of round. It goes great in the snow; but I want to get bigger around/taller tires on it, maybe 235/85-16's. I think I lost quite a bot of fuel mileage by using a too small tire. The day I got the truck, I drove it home from about 75 miles away & recorder 25 MPG in it. Unreal.
Again, thank you.

 

[akonitony]

I use non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner and spray it in both ends until it runs clean, then spray the inside down good with silicone oil, dump it out good, then reinstall it.

 

[Incredilion]

Akonitony-
Thanks, I'll do the same to mine tomorrow. Today, I decided I was going to keep it; for sure, wen & registered it; took the For Sale signs out of the windows.
Yesterday, I took the CDR out, found out that the hoses going to it werre loose on both ends. I put hose clamps on the ends, and bought the gasket today. With that, almost all of the bowby is gone; but I still want to clean the CDR.

 

[akonitony]

I have (2) M1009s, (2) M1008s, an M1031, an M1028, (2) M109A3s, (3) M35A2s, (1) M35A3, (4)M105A2s, and (4) M105A3s, and would not want to sell any of them. Their value is only going up at this time, and I predict very soon it will be skyrocketing, so hold onto any military vehicles you have, and you won't be regretting it.

 

[mr.travo]

Plus- THEY'RE FUN!!!!

 

[84cucv1ton]

I use non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner and spray it in both ends until it runs clean, then spray the inside down good with silicone oil, dump it out good, then reinstall it.

just did this. worked great..need to pick up some silicone oil for the next time

 

[acesneights1]

Since there is alot of interest on CDR's I am going to post a link to an outside source. I know the guy who wrote this and it is the best explanation of a CDR, how it works, how to test etc. It is too much to copy and paste so hopefully for the benefit of the members it's ok to post this link.
GMCTD is one of the most knowledgeable guys I have ever known.The only thing is does not answer is if a later model 6.5TD one can be used. I would think no being Turbo vs N/A but that is speculation.

CDR\PCV - what’s it all about, Alfalfa? - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

 

[acesneights1]

just did this. worked great..need to pick up some silicone oil for the next time

It should never be cleaned with solvents.It should be replaced if failing a Manometer test.

 

[akonitony]

It should never be cleaned with solvents.It should be replaced if failing a Manometer test.

I'd agree with you regarding petroleum-based solvents, but I don't see how non-chlorinated brake cleaner would hurt anything. It does leave metal without any protection against rust, so that is why I use the silicone oil afterward, but the brake cleaner won't hurt rubber, since it is ok to use on brake seals, and either will silicone oil, since it is a non-penetrating oil. If it passes the mano test, clean it an re-use it rather than replace it with something made in China sounds like a good idea to me.

 

[acesneights1]

Sadly even the aftermarket crap does not make one. To my knowledge they are not available from any source other than occasional NOS on ebay etc.

 

[NCBloodhound]

There are two on ebay right now. One is part number: 25042443 which is the original part. It has the bend on the hose connector just like stock. Mine should arrive any day now.

 

[acesneights1]

I just bought one of the bay myself.

 

[kapnklug]

I've got one for sale in the classifieds, with new rubber elbows...