kcbbqguru
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I changed out the fuel filter, and now my m 1009 won't start. Is the water in fuel sensor not allowing the starter to turn over? thanks (go 49ners!)
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Changed fuel filter now truck won't start??
- Thread starter kcbbqguru
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Skinny
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Did you bleed the filter accordin to the TM?
What have you done so far?
What have you done so far?
cpf240
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What, exactly, is it doing / not doing? You mentioned the "water in fuel" sensor and it not turning over. The two are not connected.
stationjj
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A few months ago I had to replace my spin on fuel filter. I had to loosen all 8 injector lines and crank the engine until fuel came seeping out.
I have heard that an electric fuel lift pumps helps speed this up? My CUCV came with an electric lift pumps so I didn't have any major issues.
Good Luck,
stationjj
I have heard that an electric fuel lift pumps helps speed this up? My CUCV came with an electric lift pumps so I didn't have any major issues.
Good Luck,
stationjj
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Did you bleed it properly and hook the pink wire back up?
wayne pick
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I replaced my spin on last month. I filled the filter to almost overflowing, and pinched the in and out fuel lines with needle nose pliers wraped in electrical tape before removing the old filter. This helps to keep the fuel from siphoning back to the tank. It fired right up with no bleeding/wrench throwing,LOL. Try it next time.
Skinny
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Does your filter assembly have a bleed screw?
You shouldn't have to take your injector lines off to do this. If you remove the pink wire from the IP, none of those lines will have air infiltration. Basically just open the filter assembly bleed, activate the lift pump till it's bled, close the bleed screw, activate the lift pump for another 10-20 seconds to push remaining air through the IP back to the tank, done. Reconnect pink wire and fire it up.
My primary has a manual primer pump, I was able to bleed my system without even opening up bleed screws. I just pumped until most of the air bubbles disappeared on my translucent return line. Never attempt to start the engine with the IP hooked up if air is in the system.
You shouldn't have to take your injector lines off to do this. If you remove the pink wire from the IP, none of those lines will have air infiltration. Basically just open the filter assembly bleed, activate the lift pump till it's bled, close the bleed screw, activate the lift pump for another 10-20 seconds to push remaining air through the IP back to the tank, done. Reconnect pink wire and fire it up.
My primary has a manual primer pump, I was able to bleed my system without even opening up bleed screws. I just pumped until most of the air bubbles disappeared on my translucent return line. Never attempt to start the engine with the IP hooked up if air is in the system.
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Good Vid about how to replace filter. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4jfVk_d4LI
DXTAC
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That's why I decided to go with a spin-on filter and an electric pump. Change the filter, flip the fuel pump switch, the system primes and starts immediately. Cost about $100 give or take. Haven't had a single issue with this setup.
wayne pick
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$100.00 is a small investment as apposed to what could be hours of agrivation. There are purists here that simply refuse to do this, or the doghead mod. I can't get my head around that kind of thinking.