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Changing caster angle solved problems with G-177 tires

rutledge1113

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I would be glad to take some pics but its a simple mod just take the perch off rotate it so the front is the back and the back is the front relocate line up hole so it will sit flat on top of the axel housing then bolt it all back togeather and your truck will drive normal again i dont know alll the degrees and technical data but i read about the mod on here tried it and my deuce drives like it did before i made any changes to it its a dirty labor intensive job but it does correct the wandering issue
 

tobyS

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We like pictures.

The mod itself, of removing, drilling the locator hole and replacing with ends swapped (180) is quite clear.

I want to see if the angle has changed 8 degree. It should be discernible on a photo of it all together. That is a large change that while people have spoken about on this thread, I don't think anyone has posted a finished picture that one can discern an angle change at the axle.
 

tobyS

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Whats your plan, Lt . Dan? Mill, shim or flip?

Peashooter, the thread recommends grinding or milling and it appears in the other thread (which it references) that there are some that "flipping" have resulted in about a 4 degree positive, which is not excessive on the drive train. But then there are some that flipping is 10 degree...way too much for the drive-shaft.

I still like the wedge route. An advantage would be some added height, not unlike Gingltaube's pics of the A3 and no removal of materials on the saddle? Extra length of the U-bolt may determine how thick or splurge and get new, longer ones. Just a thought!
 
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rutledge1113

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Resaca, Georgia
wow its not that complicated or maybe im just really above average and that's not it turn it around drill one hole reuse all the same ubolts nuts washers and dirt put back togeather tighten it up and start rolling smoke sorry but its just a simple mod low brain power lots of back knees and pb blaster
 

tobyS

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What makes it more complicated is that there seem to be some with different angles. Your particular truck may have a low angle. Without PICTURES that cannot be seen. Some are stated to be as much as 8* and when reversing would be a change of 16*. If you read the threads referenced, you will find that a large change puts the drive shaft in a bind. Simply reversing may not work on all of the deuces. I have read every one of the linked threads and it is not clear to me what angle should be targeted. It seems about 3-4* positive would work. Unless you have a very low angle to begin with, reversing is a lot more than 3-4*...like to 8-10*.

Lt Dan, please post the details when you do yours (before and after)....it will make this issue clearer, I think. Thanks.
 
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862
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Reading Pa
Yeah just because it's easy doesn't make it right.

And I surely will Toby, it's going to be a few weeks but I will get it done. We just had 10" of snow and now this morning another 2" with 1/4" of ice and we are supposed to get more snow this weekend.
 

tobyS

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We get most of that nasty weather in North Indiana before it hits you Lt. Dan. One good thing...we are on the down side of winter. It's been rough but I remember a lot worse.
 

peashooter

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Here are some random pictures and drawings I have on the spring shims. The first 5 pics/drawings are all from GRINGELTAUBE and are going to be the most helpfull I'm sure. The others are some I had taken or made . Myself and some others basically ended up making zero degree shims by machining them down. Attached is a drawing I made for someone who wanted to make some by welding flat stock and drilling. Perhaps it will be helpfull to some others.

Either way the pictures should make obvious that not all spring shims/perches are the same and what works for someone will not work for everyone.

My experience was that lower tire pressure, toe-in near zero, and spring perches machined nearly flat (0-1 degree) is what gave my truck a nice ride. Tire pressure played a pretty big role, even just 5psi made all the difference as I was experimenting. But that was for my truck, probably will be different for most others.

Winches, bobbed trucks, cargo boxes (m35a2), Van boxes (m109a3), tire size-brand-style, runflats, weight of the wheel/rim, wheel balance, shocks..... all these things will have an effect on how a truck rides and handles.
 

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tobyS

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Very helpful peashooter. That is exactly what I had hoped to see. Your drawing uses flat and square stock that is readily available if one doesn't want to do a lot of grinding, milling etc. Very simple.

I'll work on the math to provide a comparison. Gotta go shovel snow.
 

wilfreeman

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Richburg, SC
Excellent! Thanks peashooter. I am hoping that I will be in the 1% that doesn't have to do anything to mine when I install my G177s in a week or so, but having the different casting #s and specs really helps. I'd rather do mine right the first time than play around with it. I know G did a lot of this, but your post keeps us from having to chase 100 different threads trying to get the right answers to our questions! Thanks again!
 
862
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Location
Reading Pa
Ok this may be a dumb question but since I don't have my truck yet I have to ask. Why is there two holes in the shim? I think I might try and make my own perch sorta like the one in the prints peashooter has provided.

Using a 3/4" flat plate and then welding on little nubs to locate it front and rear. Might even try and make them like the a3 perches to give a little lift.
 

peashooter

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Ok this may be a dumb question but since I don't have my truck yet I have to ask. Why is there two holes in the shim? I think I might try and make my own perch sorta like the one in the prints peashooter has provided.
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There is an alignment pin in the axle housing and one on the bottom of the leaf spring pack. So they keep everything lined up with the perch and prevents things from shifting.
 

wilfreeman

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This might also be a dumb question, but what do the a3 perches look like - anybody have a pic? I guess I never thought about them having bigger tires from the factory and they might be lifted.
 
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