Changing Front inner Oil Seal

[tklm539]

Novice Question:

I need to change the front passenger side inner oil seal. I found the thread that gives detailed info on tearing down the entire wheel. Is it possible (this is what I have been told) to block up the truck, remove the hub, and brake line, jack up the wheel to level and pull out the entire shaft?

Thanks

Tom

 

[Recovry4x4]

No Sir! You can do that on rears, not on fronts. It all has to come apart.

 

[FreightTrain]

Well,you can't do that to the rears either.You can remove both wheels still on the hub and drum but you have to pull the axle shaft to get to the spindle nuts.The spindle on the back is riveted on.On the front you can pull the hub and wheel as a single piece if you want but it is easier to man handle each peice on separately up front.To get to the inner seal you gotta remove the wheel,then the drive flange(The small pointed thing in the center of the wheel),then you can remove the outter nut.Then the middle lock washer,then the inner nut.The Drum will pull off.Catch the outter bearing cause it will just flop out.Then you will have to remove the shoe spring up top.Remove all the bolt holding the spindle to the knuckle.make sure you keep all the nuts and washer behind them.Lightly hit the spindle with a dead blow or rubber hammer.Pull it striaght off the axle shaft,now you can pull the axle shaft out.There is the seal.You gotta pull it out with a slide hammer or take the other side off and use a long pipe to drive it out since the seal is actually driven into a holder and the holder is driven into the axle housing.Pretty tight fit.Slide hammers work for some but mine were too tight and had to break out a black iron pipe and a 5lb sledge.

 

[tklm539]

That is kind of what I thought. I hope I am not getting in over my head. Thanks for the info.

Tom

 

[acetomatoco]

Before changing the inner seal, make sure the vent is not blocked on the axle housing, blocked vent equals pressure in diff and leaks.. Secondly, be sure there is 90 weight GL1 in there... not some modern multiviz stuff.. Thirdly run the level about an inch below the fill plug... just so you can reach it with the second knuckle of the middle finger... and lastly a little leak, if it is not on the brakes is just that.... a little leak... at only $3 a gallon... ACE

 

[tklm539]

I am having one hell of a time finding 90wt gl1. The only thing I could find was at the tractor store. SAE90 GL1 Pure Mineral Oil. Is this the stuff? Description says its for old (pre53') tractos. It is $23.00 for 2 gal. I tried napa, surplus place, and 2 auto parts stores. If anyone knows of a better source or this is not the stuff. please advise.

Tom

 

[Banshee365]

I use GL-5 with the MT-1 spec from Tractor Supply, works well and is yellow-metal safe.

-Kelly

 

[FreightTrain]

Yep,that will be teh stuff.GL-1 is for OLD Equipment and only place I have found it around here is a Hydrolic shop and Farm Town.

 

[clinto]

Napa's part # for a 5 gallon bucket of GL1 is 65-205. It should actually be "NHF65205".

Take that to a counter salesman and don't leave until they find it.

I would print out a sheet off their website, but since Napa is criminally retarded, that # doesn't come up on their site.

And yes, I know it's the right one, I can see the bucket I bought a couple weeks ago from where I am sitting.

My local tractor supply doesn't have GL1, but a local Mom & Pop's auto repair place does, and I seem to remember it being Warren.

 

[acetomatoco]

remember that your Deuce differentials date from 1949 and that qualifies for "old" ACE