Roscoe or any other memebers that have had some knowledge on the cummins 250, know if this is a good spot to plumb in, or not? I also got to re-reading this thread and seen rosco mention that should use the rear block drain. Anyone think instead of hooking up in the middle of the block here as a feed think i should move it back to the back of the block instead and still put my outlet back in at the intake manifold as the thread poster originally did. I just want to make sure it functions properly and get best circulation out of the heater setup.
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Circulating Tank Block Heater Installed
- Thread starter bguy193
- Start date
nchittendon
Active member
I've got a Katz 13150 I plan to install in the near future. Thank you for the info in this thread!
nchittendon
Active member
I have a bleeder on the back of the engine. Not to sound dumb, but I'm assuming its coolant. Should I pipe in here for good circulation?
nchittendon
Active member
Sorry, phone issue posting pic. Try this.....
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nchittendon
Active member
So which plug do I want on this end? That big fella that's all by itself towards the front of the truck? Or the plug that isn't doing anything in that group of fittings? Hoping to do this job today.
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nchittendon
Active member
I'm going with the big plug (in the last pic at 5 o'clock position). I think it's a 1" plug.
Got the plug out that is behind the solenoid. What a little bastard. Had to use an impact and slowly work it out. But, now that i'm looking at it, the straight fitting that came with the heater won't work because of the solenoid. I think i'm going to have to get a 45, or a 90 elbow in there.
Also plan to install 1/4 turn valves on each end.
Another thought I had........it seems everything I read talks about air bubbles. I thought about putting an inline petcock in the new heater lines to help get rid of trapped air. Should I act on that thought, or is that a waste? Thoughts?
Got the plug out that is behind the solenoid. What a little bastard. Had to use an impact and slowly work it out. But, now that i'm looking at it, the straight fitting that came with the heater won't work because of the solenoid. I think i'm going to have to get a 45, or a 90 elbow in there.
Also plan to install 1/4 turn valves on each end.
Another thought I had........it seems everything I read talks about air bubbles. I thought about putting an inline petcock in the new heater lines to help get rid of trapped air. Should I act on that thought, or is that a waste? Thoughts?
Lieutenant Dan
Member
Do you really need to turn them valves off before running the engine? Seems like a PIA of you ask me.
Neil I would just run the truck for a couple days before I turned on the heater. It seems like that's the best way to get rid of the trapped air.
I'm back and forth between a circulating pump and a npt heater in one of the front ports.
Neil I would just run the truck for a couple days before I turned on the heater. It seems like that's the best way to get rid of the trapped air.
I'm back and forth between a circulating pump and a npt heater in one of the front ports.
nchittendon
Active member
I wasn't going to use the valves to close off the heater every time. The heater instructions just mention not running the heater while the truck is running. I would like them, however, for maintenance on the unit and what-not. I can service the heater itself and not loose all my AF. Something to just give me the option if I ever do encounter a situation where it's needed.
like a condom.........i'd rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.
like a condom.........i'd rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.
rustystud
Well-known member
All the plugs go into the same area except the top one. The top one is after the thermostat, all the others are before the thermostat. There is also a 1/4" NPT on the bottom which can be tapped out to 3/8" NPT if needed. One of the holes has the coolant temperature sending unit in it. The plug on the water pump can also be used, but is not the best for a coolant heater return.
nchittendon
Active member
I found a diagram that shows the coolant flow. Looks like it's able to circulate without the thermostat impeding anything. I had read somewhere that it was mentioned not to use this type of heater without the engine already being warm because you need the thermostat open for it to work.
Tank Heater
This is how I installed the heater. I have valves on both ends of the heater loop. It just simplifies maintenance. Certainly, you don't have to turn it off, when you run the truck, but if you spring a leak, you can turn it off, to finish the run. The second hose/valve, is the arctic fuel fired coolant heater. I am a strong believer in having plenty of heat on the engine, before starting it. Rule: If the oil will drip off the dip stick, its OK to start! There is a propane fired version of these heaters too, which I have in some of my vehicle - they are dependent on a propane tank (propane doesn't work below -40F too), but there are work-arounds, and they give one independence when your out in the bush.
This is how I installed the heater. I have valves on both ends of the heater loop. It just simplifies maintenance. Certainly, you don't have to turn it off, when you run the truck, but if you spring a leak, you can turn it off, to finish the run. The second hose/valve, is the arctic fuel fired coolant heater. I am a strong believer in having plenty of heat on the engine, before starting it. Rule: If the oil will drip off the dip stick, its OK to start! There is a propane fired version of these heaters too, which I have in some of my vehicle - they are dependent on a propane tank (propane doesn't work below -40F too), but there are work-arounds, and they give one independence when your out in the bush.
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nchittendon
Active member
This is how I just installed mine. Thank you for the pictures!! Very helpful.
The metal tubing is around the hose from the engine coolant heater. Routed that high and as close as it is to the hot side of the turbo & exhaust manifold, it requires some protection.
nchittendon
Active member
Another job done and off the list. Thank you for the pics and inspiration! Bring on the Wisconsin winter.
I have have a Zerostart 1500 watt unit ordered and was wonder what it the size of the lower rear hole on the block that will be the feed? I plan on ordering all stainless steel pipe and ball valves so I dont have to worry about corrosion and want to make sure I get the correct sizes. The outlet plug by the thermostat is 1/2", correct.