CJ10a Flightline Tug --> 4wd Pickup Truck

[gavan]

353 will fit just fine, 453 will take a bigger shoehorn. But dont let that stop you!

There is a lot of room in the frame and between the the floor and the bottom of the frame, a 453t with a set of jakes, medium duty 10 speed transmission and a divorced 205 would be an awesome combo! Just bring your ear pugs!!

 

[DrJekl]

I am using the seats that are in it. The beast has HMMWV muckets in it.

The plan is to get the MOPAR bell and get it mated up to the SD33, check clearances, distances, etc, then see what needs to be don to make the T-176 work. We whould be able to just line things up and make some new holes in the bell if things go as planned. That may require welding some new bosses in the bell, drilling and tapping. or, it may not work at all and I'll have to go another route. We'll see. I can either make it work or make it worse.

 

[gavan]

Heat has finally broken down here. I found a pickup tool box that will house my fuel tank and batteries, and have some room left over. I was pretty amazed how well a fullsize pickup truck tool box fit on the 101 trailer.

I got the motor in (hopefully) for the final time. I have the charge air hoses run and the intercooler mounted.

I got the Cummins running before I put it in, it sounds good!

Getting there!

 

[jamesfrom180]

Very Very nice. Would love to see a snorkel come off that snail. Does your hood have the cut out for it? Was also curious why you went with inter-cooler and not injection, I guess you are planning on driving this at pretty good speed? Seems alot of people that crawl or trail ride that motor prefer the meth/water injection. Do you have the radiator installled? Is that why there appears to be so much room? So many questions I really should see this truck in person.

 

[gavan]

Very Very nice. Would love to see a snorkel come off that snail.
Thinking about it, I might run the air cleaner to the back of the engine compartment, I am not sure. I am running out of space in that area.
Does your hood have the cut out for it?
No cut outs "stock". There is a pretty good area in the back of the hood you can get away with going through some pretty deep water because of the pocket of air formed there, but there is not a great place to put the air cleaner or air cleaner inlet cleanly through the body
Was also curious why you went with inter-cooler and not injection, I guess you are planning on driving this at pretty good speed? Seems alot of people that crawl or trail ride that motor prefer the meth/water injection.
I have a rock crawler , this is more for light off road, off road recovery and trailer towing. I am going to set it up to tow my CJ, it should have plenty of capacity and I am going to drive it to work. I do not have much of a plan for low speed high horsepower that water/meth would help with. If it were going in my crawler, I would consider it!
Do you have the radiator installled?
Not yet. I wanted to get the intercooler settled before I got a radiator. Building this thing is like a jig saw puzzle in a way.
Is that why there appears to be so much room?
There is a lot of room in some places, not so much in others. The motor sits a little far further that I would have really liked, but it fit well on the existing cross member and it is still mostly behind the centerline of the front axle. Plenty of room behind it to add insulation/soundproofing!
So many questions I really should see this truck in person.

You are welcome in Houston any time, but its, well, Houston.

 

[DrJekl]

This current tug is kicking my butt. Neutral Safety Switch issues, wiring harness is a mess, won't start at the key, and of course no wiring schematice to go by. Glow plug circuit does not work, had air in the fuel system.

I received my BB MOPAR scattershield. Once I get the axles done and wiring mess fixed I am going to look at the manual conversion. So far I have the bell, pedals in and most of the linkage. Picked up a manual flywheel for the SD33. Will most likely run a T176 and D300.

As for the bed, I am just going with an old step side bed I had laying around. Easy to cut down to about 48", throw in a new floor and grab some trailer fenders for it. Trying to keep this one simple.

 

[gavan]

I have been following along with your e-mails on the list, but for whatever reason my e-mails do not show up when I send them. Oh well.

I have whats left of my CJ10 harness, I am wiring mine from (mostly) scratch, I can send it out to you if you would like it. I was planning on snagging some of the connectors for the front lights and the dash lights, but I will not be getting into the ignition circuits. Just PM me an address. It might be able to help. I have spread parts to a bunch of fellow 10-ers.

I have most of the plumbing done on the 10, I am working on the exhaust and intake. It is not easy to shoehorn in 4 inch tube. I did what I could do

Radiator is in, working on plumbing. Getting there.

 

[DrJekl]

Did you narrow the bed at all?

 

[gavan]

Did you narrow the bed at all?

The 101 bed is stock width. It lines up well with the modified TJ flares on the front fender.

 

[jamesfrom180]

Hey guys found a junk 10 here in Gainesville, Fl. Sitting in a pull it yard. Not sure how much help that is to anyone but figured I would pass the info on.

 

[DrJekl]

What is left? I'd be down for the wiring if I could talk you into grabbing it for me.

 

[jamesfrom180]

It came to be by the grapevine...Seems fenders hood, bed, rear and front axle. and the engine. PM me a quick list and if I can I will get by the yard this week.

 

[DrJekl]

If the tub is there you could get $1,000 for it. Doors and roof are CJ10 only and hard to find. Fenders and grill same drill but can be used on a regular CJ. The engine and trans would be worth something if cheap enough. IHC boys like the SD33s! Hood is regular CJ and worth $100 to the right guy. Outers on the front can be used as a disc swap kit for a 14 bolt rear. The rear is junk unless it has a locker and someone needs it. Maybe $50 for it.

 

[choll]

Im just starting my project I have the weight off and cut the rear fenders to the same size as the running boards. Im doing this in steps so it will be 2wd for a while. Motor runs perfect starts everytime even after sitting months at a time. Im leaving the back on it as I like it. My questions are what is a direct bolt in transfer case ,dodge np208??, if I find a dana 44 from a 86 wagoneer is that a direct bolt in for the rear. What geras should i go with if I decide to narrow the current axle, I will be putting 33's on it. I would like to be able to do 60-65 0n the highway.

 

[DrJekl]

D70 is out, 14 bolt has the locker in it now and is ready to have spring perches and shock mounts removed. D300 ready to take the place of the NP198. I should have the springs installed this weekend and rear axle in by next week. One it and the 300 are in I'll be able to get the drive shaft cut down to size. Front axle is awaiting to be set up and installed. Probably 30 days out on that task.

The wiring is still kicking my arse! if anyone has a running CJ-10 with SD33 in it and can assist me in some wiring photos and/or tracking down some wires for me, I'd sure appreciate it.

 

[DrJekl]

The Jeep 208 will bolt right up. They seem to be hard to find though. A Dana 300 will bolt up but you'll need a passenger drop front axle.

As for the axle, spring perch location is a concern and those heavy a55 flat springs are an issue. You can flip them to get the rear further back but they are stiff and flat.

I am running 4.10s in mine with the stock tires (actually, 16" CUCV tires). 4.88s with 37" tires would get me to 65 or so. As long as she'll run 55 I'm happy. I'll just have to learn to wave at people rather than returning the one finger salute!

There are some tire size/gear/rpm calculators out there you can use to assist in getting some RPM/speed numbers.

 

[DrJekl]

Here is one:

Gear Calculator

Some neat tools on it. Tire size, gear ratios, etc.

The 285/75/16 I'll be running, basically shy of 33", should produce shy of 2300 rpm at 55 with a 4.10 gear. 3.73 will grab shy of 2100 rpm.

At what RPM does a SD33 implode?

 

[jeffhuey1n]

I don't know, how many licks does it take to make a SD 33 implode..maybe I'm confusing things again. Oh well

 

[DrJekl]

One, two, three.......three.

Now I am changing my mind on the rear springs. Was doing to axle over but after finding some front spring hangers and doing some measuring I believe I am going to keep the rear springs outboard on the rear frame. K5 and CJ10 fronts are about 45" long. Leaving the rear mounts in place brings the front mount back about 10-12" and that is about where I want to be moving the rear axle back about 10-12". I think this method will be easier in the long run and keeps the rear spring design as original.

When I get to my big CJ10 project this stuff will be easy!

 

[jamesfrom180]

I haven't forgotten about you bud. Mother-in-law came for a visit. Didn't have time to get to the junk yard.