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Cold start problems

chevywood

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Ok guys here is the issue, 1984 m1008, and i am having the cold start issues. I know I can do a block heater, however, I am worried about driving it, say to work and leaving it sit for 7 hours, then how do I warm it up. What are some other things do you use for this type of situation

thanks,
Jesse
 

Warthog

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I use a working glow plug system. Easy to fix and work on. The TM 9-2320-289-20 has a section on how to troubleshoot it.
 

chevywood

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I am pretty sure my system is working, even so, I don't know if the TM will work, the system has been altered pretty good. It has been converted to 12v, and the glow plug system has been converted to a manual system. Anyway, I think my batteries are drained. Put the charger on them and it showed less than 50%. Going to charge them and go from there.
 

Westech

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My trucks will start at 5* with out a issue. (stock glow plug system)
The push button is for hacks and never works like the properly working system. No after glow and you are 100% guessing if you are heating the plugs correctly.
For sub zero weather I have a 600 watt block heater and I keep my HF 900 watt generator in the bed.
About ten min with that thing running (maxed out) and she warms up the engine enough to get her started.
I also am working on a battery charger to be ran off the generator also to get the batteries warmed up and topped off
before trying to start her up.
 
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porkysplace

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My trucks will start at 5* with out a issue. (stock glow plug system)
The push button is for hacks and never works like the properly working system. No after glow and you are 100% guessing if you are heating the plugs correctly.
For sub zero weather I have a 600 watt block heater and I keep my HF 900 watt generator in the bed.
About ten min with that thing running (maxed out) and she warms up the engine enough to get her started.
I also am working on a battery charger to be ran off the generator also to get the batteries warmed up and topped off
before trying to start her up.
Shop Force brand 1000 watt generators have 12v output lugs , picked mine up at Meijers a year or two ago for under a $100.
 

MuleMac01

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Well there is nothing WRONG with the 24/12 volt system in the cucv,... even the stock glow plug system works as intended if you keep it running right. when you switch over to 12 volt and push button your're asking for issues and not meny people can help you with 12 volt issues. and that my friends is why we have TMs for military vehicles .... sooo good luck.
 

Keith_J

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With proper batteries, we never had issues starting, even in the coldest FTX. BOTH batteries must be good. Now that I am in a more temperate clime, my 1031 starts like a champ even in sub freezing conditions. In fact, it is my daily driver for cold and wet. Those BF Goodrich Commercial TAs grip very well through the deepest water.
 

chevywood

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Listen guys, i just asked what other people have done and some suggestions. I don't need a lecture on the electrical system and what I should and shouldn't do/done. That is a not the point. And since you are on that subject the truck was already like that when I bought it at a local auction. It is was also painted white which I had nothing to do with so feel free to rip me on that as well. The fact of the matter is I bought the truck because it was a square bodied chevy 4x4 and was running with very little rust for a very good price and later found out about the military part, so now I am dealing with it.

As as far as trying to convert it back, my electrical/mechanical skills are very limited, unless there is a YouTube video on it, it is not going to happen
 
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MuleMac01

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Listen guys, i just asked what other people have done and some suggestions. I don't need a lecture on the electrical system and what I should and shouldn't do/done. That is a not the point. And since you are on that subject the truck was already like that when I bought it at a local auction. It is was also painted white which I had nothing to do with so feel free to rip me on that as well. The fact of the matter is I bought the truck because it was a square bodied chevy 4x4 and was running with very little rust for a very good price and later found out about the military part, so now I am dealing with it.

As as far as trying to convert it back, my electrical/mechanical skills are very limited, unless there is a YouTube video on it, it is not going to happen



Look your on the right path charge your battery's then check the glow plugs with ah ohm meter Rule of thumb is they should be between .3 and 1.0... 1.0 and over isn't nessecarily bad, just means they might not be heating properly. but anything over 5.0 should get replaced. if all your GP's check out then it has to be something else. that's the best I can give you bud.
 

firefox

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No one is trying to rip you a new one, so drop the attitude.
What everyone is trying to tell you is you can convert back to the original
system, or face a lot of unnecessary headaches. Really, it is your choice,
so choose wisely. Remember, folks on here are trying to help you, not give
you a hard time. Good luck!
 

porkysplace

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Post #10 of this has links to the roscommon conversion
[h=1]Confusing 12 volt conversion.[/h]If it was converted using this , the links in that thread will provide you some help . If not your generally on your own to try and figure out how it was done . In the long run if it is a bubba conversion it may be easier to convert back to 24v than figure out what Bubba did. There are threads on converting back if you decide to go that route.
 

chevywood

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Thanks guys, didn't mean to get snappy, I think what I was wanting to ask was if anybody has used one of those circulating heaters. After the posts, I went out and fired it up. It took a little cranking but started and this was after charging batteries all day. So now I need to figure out if I have bad batteries or bad alternator. Also, I have looked and the Roscommon conversion and from what I can tell that is what has been done.
 

Warthog

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You never said that your truck had been modified or what you where looking for. The more info you give us the bettwr we can help you.

One option for you is to look into installing the civilian glow plug controller.

withou knowing how your truck wiring is hacked it will be hard to help you.

Pictures of your wiring will help
 

rlltide12

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Go to your local auto parts store and buy 8 new AC Delco AC60G glow plugs. They are self regulating and with your push button setup you are not going to burn them up. You also need to run the wire down that supplies power and check your grounds.

Edit. No these are not the factory GPs. But if you go by the TMs on part numbers, you will end up installing plugs that even with the stock system swole up and unless you enjoyed removing heads and visiting a machine shop, were a PITA to fix. The TMs are not always the best solution.
 
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MarcusOReallyus

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As as far as trying to convert it back, my electrical/mechanical skills are very limited, unless there is a YouTube video on it, it is not going to happen

A Youtube video? How about a bunch of folks that would enjoy helping you walk through it, if you work with them? They are here.

If you make the effort to post pictures and descriptions, and can follow directions, there are quite a few knowledgeable folks on here who would make the effort to help you put that thing back to stock military config. You'll learn a lot along the way, maybe have some fun, and wind up with a much more reliable vehicle at the end.

The only downside I can see is that it will cost you some time, which maybe you don't have (I know how that is!), and you'll no longer be able to say, "my electrical/mechanical skills are very limited". At the end of the process you'll be a certified expert on your truck.

Or maybe just certifiable. :mrgreen:

Anyway, whatever you decide, a block heater is not the answer to a system that isn't working properly. The best you can get out of that is to push the problem down the road a bit. A kludge, non-working system will eventually bite you.


:beer:
 
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