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Correct puller for damper

Sharecropper

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Getting ready to replace the torsional damper on my M1028. The TM simply states "Using torsional damper puller, remove torsional damper from crankshaft.".

I'm not big into borrowing tools, so I want to buy the correct puller.

What would be the correct NAPA puller number?

Thanks.
 

cpf240

Active member
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I just used a puller set from Harbor Freight to do mine. Nothing special. It was HF #37824. I did rent the harmonic damper installation tool from the local auto parts place though.
 

engineman2

Member
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Enon, Virginia
^very correct. I used the puller I have in the shop. Not sure what type it is, but a standard puller should do. Something along these lines... NAPA AUTO PARTS

THIS is the installer tool, which you will also want to have as beating the balancer on risks bearing damage and other things. This is what you need... NAPA AUTO PARTS

HOWEVER, the center bolt in the crank is an oddball size, which required me to cut the head from the old retaining bolt and custom make a ghettoe-fied tool which I can post a picture of if need be. That NAPA set looks more complete than mine, so you might not need to do what I did.

More than likely, you will need soldier B to hold a large flat head screwdriver on a tooth in the flex plate to keep the engine from turning to facilitate removal and re-installation of the balancers large center retaining bolt. This can be had by removing the starter, but be sure to disconnect the batteries first or you might do some unintentional welding.

Also, while you're there it may behoove you to also replace the 'front main seal' or 'timing cover seal' as it's sometimes called. Just for extra insurance while you're there. Any questions ask away.
 

cpf240

Active member
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Free in Northern Idaho
Taking the damper off was not too hard, as it was the original and had the holes around the outside edge. I saw somewhere in the TM that you can stick a tool, I used a screwdriver, through one of those holes and let the end of the tool brace against a portion of the engine block. This allowed me to loosen the bolt without the crank turning.

The installer tool I rented from O'Reilly Auto Parts included a threaded adapter that fit the crankshaft perfectly. Other than taking forever to seat the damper, it went smoothly. Oh, and yes, I replaced the timing cover seal while I was in there. :)

Now, putting that bolt back on and tightening it? That required me to remove the t/c inspection cover. What a pain. I then put a box-end wrench on one of the t/c to flexplate bolts and let it rest against the side of the housing, allowing me to tighten the damper bolt. I'll have to look into dropping the starter next time, though I'm hoping "next time" won't be for a very long time! :beer:
 

cucv1833

Member
533
4
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Location
Lake Charles, LA
I used the oriellys tool from this thread to remove. The used a rubber mallet and 2x4 to lightly install it halfway. Then I used this tool again for installing with the bolt that was supplied. It took me a half day trying to make sure everything went well. It was my first one.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/73637-6-2-balancer-puller-installer-found.html

I followed this thread for a reference. The key way had me a little worried but I took my time and got it out.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/44202-check-you-balencer.html
 

jets1959

Member
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Location
Lakewood, WA
Pulled mine with a puller but use a flat piece of steel, about two feet long, with a hole drilled in it the size of the pulley bolts. Put one pulley bolt back in through the hole and tightened it down. Put another bolt in to braise the steel against and then braised the steel to the frame of the truck. This kept the engine from turn while I tightened the damper bolt. No extra maintenance. Hope this helps!!!
 

Matt65

New member
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Location
Alabama
I also used a rental puller from Advanced. Very nice tool kit (~$100 iirc). It was extremely helpful for installation of the new part as well with its thrust bearing.
 
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