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CTIS pressure settings increase - no programming, transducer, or module required.
- Thread starter GeneralDisorder
- Start date
- 875
- 1,375
- 93
- Location
- La Crosse, WI
7.83 MB file on MEGA
Thank you!7.83 MB file on MEGA
mega.nz
I’m hoping I understood all this correctly so here goes.
The usual issue, CTIS controller bricked with 5 solid lights, so it’s been unplugged for awhile. I just purchased a “NOS” unit from eBay Which I “think” is what I can use.
First unit is the original, second is the replacement. I’m not 100% on this but I believe the original is 2007, Mar 30 and the replacement is 2024, Mar 3.
It’s my understanding if I just plug the new unit in I would be good to go, with the old 55psi highway pressure, but if I cut a certain wire I would end up with 81 psi highway.
1998 1078.
Am I in the ballpark here or just wayyy out left field?
The usual issue, CTIS controller bricked with 5 solid lights, so it’s been unplugged for awhile. I just purchased a “NOS” unit from eBay Which I “think” is what I can use.
First unit is the original, second is the replacement. I’m not 100% on this but I believe the original is 2007, Mar 30 and the replacement is 2024, Mar 3.
It’s my understanding if I just plug the new unit in I would be good to go, with the old 55psi highway pressure, but if I cut a certain wire I would end up with 81 psi highway.
1998 1078.
Am I in the ballpark here or just wayyy out left field?
Ronmar
Well-known member
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- Port angeles wa
It may not be cutting a wire but changing a wire(applied voltage) from one pin to another pin in the connector…
- 606
- 900
- 93
- Location
- Texas Hill Country
You may want to review the schematics in post #98 and the programming in post #99—
I believe I need to apply power to pin Z on P110. I’m a bit confused on Pin M though. In one place it says pin M is not used, but in another place it says Pin M has power.
- 606
- 900
- 93
- Location
- Texas Hill Country
Some posts are discussing using an older ECU unit which requires modification in newer trucks.
In post #98 the schematic for M1078A1 appears to show 24v optionally from H or Z, with M unused. What the schematic doesn't make clear is how or if the options access the different programs—
- 69
- 41
- 18
- Location
- Croswell, MI
If you move the pin in cavity M in the wire harness connector to cavity Z, that will give you M1089 Wrecker programming with 81 psi Highway.
- 2,462
- 5,993
- 113
- Location
- Portland, OR
You don't have to do that - just cut wire number 1911 and leave it as an open circuit. That will enable 81 psi mode (M1088/M1089).
- 69
- 41
- 18
- Location
- Croswell, MI
So configuration 3 is the same as 0? Is that confirmed?
- 2,462
- 5,993
- 113
- Location
- Portland, OR
That's how I have my truck wired. I can select 55 or 81 with a toggle switch. Works with all the controllers I've tried.
I went over that in post number 1 of this thread.
I went over that in post number 1 of this thread.
- 69
- 41
- 18
- Location
- Croswell, MI
I see it meow. After 7 pages and all the reading, I lost track of the wires you did.
So meow, I'm left wondering..... what's the actual difference between 0 and 3? Is it the overspeed warnings, or are the modes other than Highway pressure settings different?
- 2,462
- 5,993
- 113
- Location
- Portland, OR
Nothing that I can find. Looking in the software all the settings match 1088/1089. I just went with it. I was going to reroute to pin Z but my truck has no wire there so just because I'm lazy I checked the settings with it just cut and it was already set to what I wanted so I just left it that way. I've tested several modules and they all seem to be set that way.
- 69
- 41
- 18
- Location
- Croswell, MI
That sucks. So we have confirmed that 2 of the 9 programs are identical to each other. Once I get my CTIS leaks fixed I'll have to change around the pins through all the programs and find out for sure what's up with each one. My A0 doesn't have the CAN, so it'll be running it through all the settings on each one.
- 2,462
- 5,993
- 113
- Location
- Portland, OR
I'm guessing they copied the higher pressure map over to all the unused program slots so if there's some wiring malfunction and it loads a different profile it's less likely to be "too low" as that would be more dangerous than too high if you're heavily loaded. But I have not actually checked them all.
I finally got around to installing the black box controller in my original post. I’ll you what happened, then maybe someone can tell me what should have happened. 1998 1078 for ref.
Tires were all inflated to about 80 psi.
i installed the controller and heard noises I hadn’t heard in quite awhile, so wasn’t sure what was what. Hwy light blinked a bit, I heard a valve under passenger dash (I think) vent, and after that ano5her valve back under the truck vented, then I got a solid hwy light.
i drove to work about 25 min expecting the pressure would drop to 55psi, but it did not. It didn’t really change.
When I got home I set the controller to “sand” and she immediately started bleeding air. I got that double valve bleed noise about 3-4 times as it was getting close to deflated, and then got a solid “sand” light. Checked all the tires and all were about 20psi.
I clicked back over to highway and after sometime (10 min?) she settled out and I got a solid Hwy light. All tires checked 55 psi.
Everything seemed to me like it operated as it should, except the expectation that it would drop that 80 psi down to 55 psi, which it did not. Thoughts on this?
Next I have to relocate M to Z and see if I get the 81 psi mentioned.
Does the flashing over speed light cause any issues?
Tires were all inflated to about 80 psi.
i installed the controller and heard noises I hadn’t heard in quite awhile, so wasn’t sure what was what. Hwy light blinked a bit, I heard a valve under passenger dash (I think) vent, and after that ano5her valve back under the truck vented, then I got a solid hwy light.
i drove to work about 25 min expecting the pressure would drop to 55psi, but it did not. It didn’t really change.
When I got home I set the controller to “sand” and she immediately started bleeding air. I got that double valve bleed noise about 3-4 times as it was getting close to deflated, and then got a solid “sand” light. Checked all the tires and all were about 20psi.
I clicked back over to highway and after sometime (10 min?) she settled out and I got a solid Hwy light. All tires checked 55 psi.
Everything seemed to me like it operated as it should, except the expectation that it would drop that 80 psi down to 55 psi, which it did not. Thoughts on this?
Next I have to relocate M to Z and see if I get the 81 psi mentioned.
Does the flashing over speed light cause any issues?
- 875
- 1,375
- 93
- Location
- La Crosse, WI
That all sounds normal. I can't recall if HWY ever drops pressure....not that you would ever really need to as it's the highest pressure setting.
The over speed light will appear when in a lower mode and traveling too fast for the pressure. After a little while (I don't recall how long but its in the TMs, it will automatically switch modes to the next higher pressure mode. It's to try and avoid tire damage from people not paying attention.
- 2,462
- 5,993
- 113
- Location
- Portland, OR
HWY does not drop pressure. Partially because the system has to account for pressure rise due to temperature, and partially because they want the ability to manually inflate higher and not have the controller fight you.
Ronmar
Well-known member
- 4,296
- 8,144
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
yea that sounds about right. after you went to sand it went back to its programmed highway pressure.