CTIS schrader valve and kneeling valve assembly

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coachgeo

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In reading the Dana diagnostics of CTIS they call this valve the air transport valve instead of Kneeling. Seems its only purpose is for a quick air release for transport. If that is all it is... Just plug it? Assuming Will's (Suprman's) hammer is being facetious.

Will when you put elbow in on your spare parts trucks... you mentioned doing on the tires... are you meaning rims? You just cross thread a standard elbow into the rim? If understanding you right.. maybe can just re-thread the hole on the rim and do as you say.... but more properly.
 

DiverDarrell

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There is a stem that goes from the main rim through a hole in face plate part of the rim and that’s what the kneeling valve or elbows thread on to. Kneeling valves are known to leak. I had this problem on mine as well. Replaced it, and replaced it again with a standard elbow. Unless your planning on quickly loading onto a C-130, change it out. One less part to go bad on the trail. Also the stem that comes through the face plate is internally threaded for a Schrader valve an you can ditch all the other ctis parts.
 

NevadaLMTV

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Ok I am all for adding the L or Elbow but the biggest question is where do you pick it up from. I dont think I can go to Auto zone and get it. I tried Fastenal and they dont have it, and neither does Case International. So I guess that is the 63 dollar question that no one has a answer for. If someone can give me a name of a company I will be proud to order one. I did write S/S for information and hope I will get a answer on Monday. Fingers crossed of course. I just wish when civilians design a truck for Military I wish they would buy locally. Just imagine a Army vehicle you can go to the parts store to get parts for. From Oil, and lubrication to hoses and Hydraulic line. What a great idea that would be.
 

coachgeo

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Ok I am all for adding the L or Elbow but the biggest question is where do you pick it up from. I dont think I can go to Auto zone and get it. I tried Fastenal and they dont have it, and neither does Case International. So I guess that is the 63 dollar question that no one has a answer for. If someone can give me a name of a company I will be proud to order one. I did write S/S for information and hope I will get a answer on Monday. Fingers crossed of course. I just wish when civilians design a truck for Military I wish they would buy locally. Just imagine a Army vehicle you can go to the parts store to get parts for. From Oil, and lubrication to hoses and Hydraulic line. What a great idea that would be.
Who is S/S? You might try Parker store for the elbow. Did you PM Smike740 . Then again he said he used the elbow from the rear wheel so you should be able to get that number if he doesn't respond. As to over the counter parts... the FMTV line of trucks is the most over the counter in US military history. Its just in here folk are stuck in Military Surplus mindset. Others on occasion discover the commercial equivalent we can use instead of NOS and pass that info on pretty often though.
 

Aernan

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I bought mine from another SS member. I was never able to locate another supplier. You can rebuild the squat valve if you are stuck.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

DiverDarrell

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Search on a big auction site for a “new style lmtv ctis wheel rim valve & hose to stem”. It has the part your looking for and some others that are good to have on hand for spares.
 

Smike740

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Here are the pics of the kneeling valve disassembled along with the box for the replacement regular 90deg connector. The part is still available from spicer and any truck parts store which deals in Spicer parts can order. I ordered mine via Truck Pro in Columbus Ohio. Regarding the kneeling valve I replaced two of the o rings but still had a slight leak via the brass valve core. You could probably disassemble the core and replace the seals but I gave up at that point since new parts were available.
 

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NevadaLMTV

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OK do you have a Kneeling valve, A Airborne Kneeling valve, or heck just a valve on your tire that has a screwdriver slot to allow the air to escape and flatten the tires so that if you were loading in on a airplane it will not bounce around. I say that because no one, not anyone knows the true name of this device. Even though my friends in Army Maintenance area call it a kneeling valve. So here we go, does it leak even when it shouldn't? Does it leak and you cant find the L connection to change it out. Well I had this problem and could not get any help solving the problem. Got some direction but not actually cures. So I did what the Navy Seabees, Ole Infantry soldiers, and Maintenance soldiers have always done. I use some go ole American engineering.

So let me tell you what you need before we get started. Two dimes, and a pint can of Flex seal, and thread tape.
1. First if your tire isnt already flat then let out all the air of your tire using the useless Kneeling valve or whatever you want to call it. Once all the air is out remove the cap.
2. Once the Cap it off remove the two metal disc and put them in a plastic bag. You wont be using them anymore.
3. Clean the empty valve cap with a piece of steel wool or even sand paper, make sure you get into the rims.
4. Wash it out with soap and water and then dry it out, use alcohol and q tips and clean the cap. No dirt or dust or anything left.
5. Let it dry and check your work for anything like dirt you missed.
6. Take a q tip and open your flex seal put a good seam around the inside of the cap where the screw valve was to make a gasket.
7. Let it sit for about five minutes and then drop the first dime into the cap. I used a dime because it fit perfect in the camp with no wiggle room. Put a little pressure on the dime so the flex seal will ooze through the top of the cap there fore sealing the dime into place turn it with the threads up so it will dry for about few hours
8. Take your q tip and a slowly load the dime from the inside with flex seal. Fill it up to half way or three quarters to the threads.
9. Allow to dry for about a 24 hours, once it is dry you drop the second dime on top of the rubber to give the whole thing a sort of over stuffed oreo affect. This will help with the pressure on the flex seal.
10. Put tread tape on the the wheel valve thread then tighten down. This fixes any further leaks and you dont have to change the tire, the line, or the the kneeling valve.
It worked on my truck and now I dont have any problems at all. And since I already had flex seal it only cost twenty cents to fix it.
 

M1078hispeed

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there is an outfit called "pro-transmission parts " if i remember right they have had them in the past
there ph is 877-776-4600
good luck. and FWIW....
I have been able to sometimes get the kneeling valves to stop leaking by slightly adjusting the position of the screw slot , not turning it ALL the way back, but stopping it maybe a 1/16 or 1/8 short of full stop
AND those kneeling valves are only good for two things ....
1. lowering vehicle height to get it aboard a low headroom transport ( which us civs dont really give a hoot about )
2. leaking, leaking and then leaking
 

tennmogger

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https://www.finditparts.com/products/986790/dana-holding-corporation-673240

Looks like a source. I have not bought one to verify.

Another reason to get rid of that valve is it's weight. That big hunk of brass will wobble on the stem as you drive and distort the stem, often enough to swedge down the end where the Schrader valve goes, and the valve won't screw in.

This may be obvious but tires/wheels off the rear of a truck have a simple right angle fitting. Just buy the whole assembly on a wheel with a worn out tire, plentiful from MIL tire dealers, but you have to be able to pick them up to avoid shipping.
 

m-35tom

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why not just fix it correctly? there is an o ring inside the valve where it screws onto the valve stem. yours is bad if it leaks. 7mm id x 11mm od O ring i.e 2mm cross section. easy to find. by the way this is a pressure regulated valve, it will only lower tire pressure to a set point.
 
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M1078hispeed

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Hey just my 2c.... I have had several scenarios where kneeling valves start leaking. sometimes BADLY
IF vehicle is at home base / shop at home no problem . You can usually find any needed parts online.
On the other hand if you cant wait , or are away from your home / shop or in boonies where no parts are available a really easy fix is to unscrew the cap on kneeling valve , pop out the slotted head and then the " insert/innards" can be removed by simply twisting a flathead screwdriver or anything flat against the brass shoulders of the insert and the whole assembly is designed to be rotated and then pulled right out. remove and save or discard insert parts and then just fill in void with a short bolt and a shoulder nut on other side, use some gasket cement or similar to seal under / in / around under blot head and shoulder nut and before tightening , give sealant a little time to set , replace modified cap and you are good to go .
cant remember if i used a 1/4" bolt and nut for sure , may have used some stray metric i had in parts box ?
 

coachgeo

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Hey just my 2c.... I have had several scenarios where kneeling valves start leaking. sometimes BADLY
...shoulder nut on other side, use some gasket cement or similar to seal under / in / around under blot head and shoulder nut and before tightening , give sealant a little time to set , replace modified cap and you are good to go .
can't remember if i used a 1/4" bolt and nut for sure , may have used some stray metric i had in parts box ?
didn't know what a shoulder nut was... so looked it up. Seems a shoulder nut is a "category" of nuts that is fairly broad in design. Once the shoulder gets longer it becomes a barrel nut.... sooo..... can you be more specific please.

below is one type of shoulder nut found on battery terminal bolts.
 

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