CUCV Cold Weather Start Experince

[howardc]

Excellent, glad you found the issue and are back on the road.

The batts were both from 2010, from the previous owner. So I guess it was time for new ones anyway. I just hate finding out the hard way. I guess a little pro activeness on my part would have avoided the breakdown. Oh well.

 

[Cigarjoe]

M1009 needed four GP cycles and she fired up. My M1108 fired on one GP cycle. This was yesterday morning with a -12 actual temp after sitting outside in it for over 24 hours without starting. I was very happy with them.

 

[spartan_185]

I had no trouble in the last three mornings starting up my 1008. The glow plugs cycled and It started right up. I have two Hawker 6TAGM Batteries and they turned the starter over at normal speed when it was 2 degrees on monday.

 

[RSOPerator]

I started mine last night in a garage with no issues, then stopped to get gas since I was on E. I pumped 10 gallons in and it wouldn't turn over, just crank and crank...

If you didn't put in any anti-gel additive when you fueled up, I wonder if it was so cold it immediately gelled-up... I really don't know why it would not re-start otherwise, especially since the engine would likely have been warmed up.

 

[Corvette1974]

It turned out my "dead battery" was actually just extreme corrosion on one of the terminals. I charged the batteries and cleaned the terminal and it started right up. It is actually better than ever the voltage gauge never fluctuates now when there is a load on it. Now I just need to chase the new mystery leak...

Will

 

[00Buck]

Scottladdy, I wanted to explain why I cycle my glow plugs the way I described earlier. When I bought my 1028, it only had the manual glow plug button. When I turn the key on I have no wait light or controller telling me when to start the truck. This being my first cucv, I am at the mercy of this valuable forum for info on my truck and tips and tricks to proper operation. I have done as much research as I can on the glow plugs and their operation. I don't know how long is too long to let them glow before they swell and fail. This is a big fear of mine. Not knowing any better I cycle the plugs for ten secs as to not over work them. I watched the excellent video of the theory of operation of the glow plugs sticky and see that the controller does keep them lit for awhile. I tried to count how long they stay lit before they go out then cycle the after glow( three sec on three off). I try to mimic what the controller should be doing if it worked. If anyone could explain what the glow plugs are capable of so the guys with manual buttons operate the system the way it should work without overworking the plugs or wasting time cycling them; it would be greatly welcomed.

 

[scottladdy]

Scottladdy, I wanted to explain why I cycle my glow plugs the way I described earlier. When I bought my 1028, it only had the manual glow plug button. When I turn the key on I have no wait light or controller telling me when to start the truck. This being my first cucv, I am at the mercy of this valuable forum for info on my truck and tips and tricks to proper operation. I have done as much research as I can on the glow plugs and their operation. I don't know how long is too long to let them glow before they swell and fail. This is a big fear of mine. Not knowing any better I cycle the plugs for ten secs as to not over work them. I watched the excellent video of the theory of operation of the glow plugs sticky and see that the controller does keep them lit for awhile. I tried to count how long they stay lit before they go out then cycle the after glow( three sec on three off). I try to mimic what the controller should be doing if it worked. If anyone could explain what the glow plugs are capable of so the guys with manual buttons operate the system the way it should work without overworking the plugs or wasting time cycling them; it would be greatly welcomed.

Well, unfortunately part of the answer lies in what type of plug you are using. Older style non self regulating plugs need more care. Newer style self regulating plugs like the AC60g's actually reduce the current demand as they heat up in order to extend their useful life.

With AC60g's, my cold start wait light times range from 5 seconds in August to 18 seconds in 0F temps. But I do believe the GP controller behavior is different with self regulating plugs as the current draw reduces as these plugs heat up. As such, your mileage may vary.

From this article: http://www.accuratediesel.com/gplugs.htm
"If your vehicle starts OK if you plug in the block heater overnight, but will not start if you do not, then you probably have a glowplug issue unless your engine has very low compression."

Apologies for not being more specific, but hopefully you understand why. My advice would be to start by trying to identify the type of plug installed. If they are a self regulating variety then I see no harm in keeping them energized for 18 seconds in below freezing temps. If they are not, you might consider installing a set to increase your peace of mind.

So glad you are able to find useful information on this site. I am still attempting (feebly) to repay the value I have received myself.

One last thing. I have many friends who have diesel powered power and farm equipment equipped with glow plugs. None of their equipment has a wait light. When they hitch a ride from me, every one of them has mentioned how nice it would be to have a wait light to tell them if the plugs have been energized long enough. None of their equipment has such a feature.

 

[scottladdy]

Interesting brochure produced by BERU: http://www.beruindia.com/pdf/GLOW PLUGS.pdf

 

[Smokingman]

Northern Minnesota here.I have installed a 1000 watt block heater in my 1009.When it is below 0(often)I plug it in.The difference is incredible.The glow plugs kick off in under 10 seconds and if fires right up.Without the block heater,below zero and it was a 50/50 chance of starting at all after multiple cycles of the plugs.I do run 2 31 series batteries.I have no relation to the seller but do like the product,and it has worked well for me so I am leaving a link.These are made in Canada and are a buy it now item(not an auction).http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-6-2-6-5-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c218de4b&vxp=mtr

 

[DriverSideImpact1008]

Based on your symptoms, I would start by ensuring your batteries meet minimum specifications for CCA and reserve capacity. GP cycles are a significant draw.

Also, make certain your charging system is working properly. Are your battery connections all clean and tight? Especially battery posts, positive on starter and ground.

Also, consider that frequent starts without an extended charge time will quickly drain your batteries. Starting loads are the highest on your batteries. A good rule of thumb is 20 minutes of driving to recover the charge lost from a single start.

Lastly, most people don't realize this, but you must fully charge a new battery before you use it. Throw it on a 1 or 2 amp charger until it reads full charge before using it to start your vehicle. You will greatly extend the life of your battery. This is not one of those 'I heard it somewhere' or 'my buddy says' recommendations. There is a chemical explanation for this. I encourage everyone to do some research into the chemistry of lead acid batteries.

^^I second this. Even something as simple as a loose or slightly poor ground can cause major problems starting. Also, how old are your batteries? Are they maintenance-free? If not, have you checked the water levels? If they are low, fill them up with distilled water and put them on a slow charger.

The Costco batteries are great batteries. I have 3 year old Kirkland group 65 batteries (900CCA rated) in my 1009 and they started my truck pretty well when it was around -4°F last month. It took a few pushes of the GP button and a fair amount of cranking (I have a very slight fuel seepage after my electric inline fuel pump which certainly can't help).
I don't even bother putting my truck through the pain of starting when it's in the single digits...I drive the Grand Marquis when it's that cold. I'd love to actually utilize my block heater and my apartment parking lot has posts every few parking spots for plugging-in engine heaters... but none of them have freaking outlets in them!!

 

[topgun217]

I have a manual button in my m1009 and I usually hold the button in between 15 to 20 seconds when its extremely cold (0 to - ??) And cycle 2x and she starts no problem. In the warmer temps just 1 5 to 10 seconds and its good. I too have found out that the ac60's are the way to go. I usually replaceGP's every 2 years, but with all the extreme low temps I will replace them in the spring.

These push buttons are good , but when you forget your gloves and the button is metal, you' get frost burn on your finger tip. (don't ask how I know this)

 

[Hasdrubal]

On the AC60 replacement intervals. I keep track of when each one goes and in which cylinder. I get at least 4 years constant use out of them-with a manual push button system. Some have made it for 6 years. Its easy to tell when one goes out, engine idles rougher and you will notice smoke out of the side that he failed GP is on. Test those 4 and replace the the failed GP. No need to replace all of them at once, especially after only a year or two.

 

[TGP (IL)]

Zero deg this morning. 1028A2 Doghead and GP resistor bypass only Mod's.
Been sitting outside for a week,Cycle GP twice started right up.
It's all about the PM work you stay on top of!
Tom

 

[HoosierDaddy]

ummm not sure what happened here ... can't seem to delete this ???

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I've had my 1028 a whole week now and am impressed with it's starting thus far.
Manual gp button , wait light still functions so I timed it and repeated (2 cycles total) and mash the pedal to the floor and crank.
Trickiest part is throttling back and releasing the key at the right moment.
I'll second the block heater comment. On my previous truck , 2001 Ford 7.3 PSD , there was a night day difference it starting it at low temps. I didn't plug it in until the overnights were going to be in the single digits.
That being said , using dino oil @ 15w-40 and switching to Shell syn. 0w-40 made a HUGE difference in turnover speed and is what allowed me to not have to plug in until such low temps.

Lot of solid info in this thread : Good electrical PM's , strong batts , follow the posted start procedure ...etc

 

[m38inmaine]

M1010 stock except for starter relay mod, one glow cycle and starts right up, a bit cranky when below zero for a few days but always starts. I live off grid so no block heaters here.

 

[robd]

I have a manual button in my m1009 and I usually hold the button in between 15 to 20 seconds when its extremely cold (0 to - ??) And cycle 2x and she starts no problem. In the warmer temps just 1 5 to 10 seconds and its good. I too have found out that the ac60's are the way to go. I usually replaceGP's every 2 years, but with all the extreme low temps I will replace them in the spring.

These push buttons are good , but when you forget your gloves and the button is metal, you' get frost burn on your finger tip. (don't ask how I know this)

Where would this button be if it was installed?

Thanks.

 

[Hasdrubal]

It would be wherever the installer put it. Mine is under the headlight switch. Do you see any non-stock button on your dash? Then your's doesn't have one. The majority of CUCV's just utilize the stock card set-up. Put your own in.

 

[mijon]

Defently batteries, would say plug your truck in but you have a M-1009. You can buy after market block heaters. With my M-1008 if I plug it in, I have no problems starting it in 2 resets of GP system in -20 degrees +. Cant be a fuel gel with the problem your describing.

 

[mijon]

Also check your bateries for volts. Anything below 12 volts especially the Gen 1 battery, its no good to crank over. Especially with no block heater. Should take you atleast 4-5 times cycling GP's to start over 10 degrees or lower. If you don't have the crank, your not going anywhere.