CUCV head gasket / head/ or change engine survey

gringeltaube

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WOW what is that 6.2 installed in? It looks similar to a mixed parts engine from a CUCV and a HMMWV. Is it in running condition in the picture?
Yes, it was running when I pulled it out of a... nice and complete '77 M886 !! (I bought the whole thing for less than what that motor costs, here.)
All I know is that the Uruguayan military had done the swap, and the only thing they had on hand at that time was M1008's and M1009's. Never did they have any HMMWV's here.

May I ask what catched your eye, that doesn't look "right" for being a CUCV-engine?



G.
 

cucvrus

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The engine code is JJA 5 05 What does that mean? I did the research. If I am correct the engine is a 1987 built on Cinco de mayo 1987. Does anyone agree or dis agree. I am baffled. I thought it was the original engine all this time. J suffix = 1987 May 5. So 5 May 1987 is the engine build date. So to put it into better perspective. This M1009 had 17 K miles on it when I bought it and had an engine changed already. And also the transmission does not have the HD embossed on the case. Is that a pickup truck thing only? I see no difference between the 2 transmission cases in a side by side comparison. I don't really care that this is not the OEM engine for this 1984 model year M1009 but it does baffle me as to why it was changed. Probably because of a leaking rear main seal. Also are the last 8 of the VIN on the engine somewhere?
 
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gringeltaube

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The injection pump is a HMMWV pump with the bullets connectors and the vent.
Ohh well, yes and no... I forgot that at some point I had swapped IP tops with another (HMMWV)motor going for a 12V application.
The body of the IP in the picture still is the original DB2829-4521.
Also are the last 8 of the VIN on the engine somewhere?
I don't think so.



G.
 

cucvrus

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I have a quick question. I have always lived by the rule if it is not broken do not fix it. I ask this question because I need to know. Why would I change the oil pump on the engine when I have the oil pan off to change the rear main seal? I have never had any oil pressure issues and I know as a fact that I have a genuine GM oil pump in the engine at this point. I had 40 lbs of oil pressure at all times with this engine running Rotella T 15w40. So why would I change the oil pump? It is clean and looks like new. And why would I be a fool to button it all up with the original oil pump still in place. Am I missing some ancient Chinese secret here?
 

cucvrus

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I am not going to get carried away. If I do that I might well pull the pistons and get the block line bored. As I thought there really is no rhyme or reason to just change the pump. I ask several mechanics and they all had mixed replies. I think it is a choice that you must make on inspection. But it ran fine for all these years and the head gasket went bad a common issue. I had the heads redone and will just reseal everything and put it back together. Thanks for the reply. I made it many years with my keep it stock and only fix what is broken philosophy. I still do strict PM but I am thrifty with the money. I am not wasteful. Most time it is other peoples money I am dealing with so I try my best to save without cutting corners or over doing it. And I am fussy about things being right. But I do not have an endless expenditure to sink into an old vehicle. I am impressed with it as it is and will get many more years of use out of it. I will post more pictures. It is the weekend. time to get a jump on things and get it back together and on the road. I have body and paint to do yet. Thank you for looking. Take care and have a nice weekend. I was down at Aberdeen yesterday the weather was very nice to say the least.
 

cucvrus

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Well it started life out as a canvas top on a HMMWV and I cut it down and made it fit the cut off rear fiberglass roof. I am in the process of trying to aquire a tan one for it because I want to repaint the truck 686 tan after the drive train is reinstalled.
 

cucvrus

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019.jpg020.jpg021.jpg022.jpg023.jpgToday was a very productive day. I removed the oil pan , oil pump and rear main bearing cap. Then I removed the lousy no good rear main seal. I did not think that a 1987 engine had the rope rear main seal. Back 30+ years ago when I worked at the GM shop we replace hundreds of rope seals on S10 2.8 v6 engines as a recall. We put the rubber seals in to replace the leaking rope seals. Oh well at this point it is all going to be uphill again. I will begin cleaning and painting all the parts and reassembly next week. Thank you for looking. The transmission is still out being resealed and I decided to send the alternators to the shop and the starter. Start all fresh. This engine ran perfect even with the head gasket leaking.
 

icecreamman

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While you are installing the freeze-plug block heater, change out all of the freeze plugs. I like the brass ones. Back story---a non-mechanically-inclined friend literally gave away a car with a rusted out freeze plug.....the one in the rear of the block inside the bell housing.

Only a couple of dollars and a few minutes on a bench. PITA with frame, fenders, exhaust manifolds and a transmission in the way.

Brass never rusts:)
 

cucvrus

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More dirty work today. I began cleaning the engine parts in the parts washer and sanding them for painting.002.jpg001.jpg003.jpgThe military crew that painted the 383 green CARC on this M1009 must have been on something. Every part of the truck has green paint on it the engine block, oil pan, axles , transmission pan and the top of the transmission. I don't know how they paint. But it is almost like they load a car wash up with paint and then drive thru. And the paint that was on the body had no adhesion what so ever and the paint that is on the underside you can hardly sand off. The inside of this engine is spotless. I can hardly remember taking apart another engine apart that was this clean inside. Thanks for looking. Now is the time of year to get out and start working on your projects.
 

cucvrus

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More parts cleaning and sanding. I will be painting the engine parts tomorrow. I heard back from the transmission shop today. the torque converter is bad in my transmission. I gave him the green light to go over the entire transmission. He said everything else was just normal for the age. He will just do the normal overhaul. I did not run it till it quit. I just decided to have it gone over as part of my major tear down. And the torque converter being bad may explain why it took so long to go in gear in cold weather. The delay in going into gear in the cold weather was the only issue I had with the transmission. I still can not beleive the amount of over sprayed CARC paint on the entire underside and drive line. I will post pictures after I get some of the parts painting done. Thank you for looking. Have a nice day.
 

cucvrus

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005.jpg006.jpg007.jpg008.jpgI cleaned and sanded a few parts. I painted them today and began my body work on the right rocker. I will start posting them pictures with my driveline progress.
003.jpg004.jpg009.jpg010.jpgI cut the rusty area out of the right rocker panel and acid washed it and sprayed Rustoleum Rust reformer inside the rocker. I am not a body man. I can get by with my repairs but I am not the type that does show room quality work. But I get by and it looks good when I am done. I have a new rocker panel and will only braze the piece in that I need. It will last a while. This is my low budget project. I am spending my budget on the drive line everything else I found laying around the shop. The rocker I used the inner piece on another truck that was rusted inside the sill plate and the outer rocker was good. Thanks for looking and have a nice day.
 

Ackevor

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Wow that's nothing! Lay in a tiny bit of bondo or patch with some sheet metal after you neutralize that rust like you did, paint to match and done! I wish I had picks of my rockers and cab corner to show you... well I would get some but they don't exist!
 

cucvrus

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The new rocker panel is in the body work pictures 3&4 laying on the threshold in the door way. I used a replacement rocker and cut it down. I will urethane it and rivet it into place. With a little brass welding on the top edge. That will be about as fussy as I want to get. I have a few puss spots on the mule to fix to get it ready for repaint. To night I will being some engine and body work. I will keep you posted. My Son and I have started an outside CUCV project. Removing a lousy/poorly installed lift kit from an M1028. I will post on that also. Same line it has been sitting a long time and is rusting away. Not bad but the workmanship is terrible on all the parts installed on the suspension. More later. Thank you for looking have a nice day.
 

cucvrus

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001.jpg002.jpg003.jpg004.jpg005.jpg006.jpgAfter taking some time away and going on vacation I am back at work on my engine project for the Mule. I installed a new rear main seal , water pump , front main seal , fuel pump and am buttoning up the bottom end. I chose the wood blocks over the engine stand. t makes it easier for me to work on sitting on my chair and I don't have the hassle of turning the heavy engine over in the engine stand. I took the damper to the engine shop last week and the man said put it back on he saw no deterioration of the rubber. I sanded and wire brushed every part of the engine. I washed every nut and bolt in the parts washer 1 piece at a time and replaced every gasket on the engine. I used Permatex the right stuff and Felpro gaskets. I wanted something different so I found a can of blue paint and painted the motor mount brackets blue. Everything is going well. Tomorrow when some strong helpers come I will put it right side up and complete the upper end. I bought a GM block heater and will be installing that while I have the engine inverted. Everything is going well we are doing the body work at the same time as the overhaul. But I did not want to go wild on that yet because of the dust and dirt. Thank you for looking and have a nice day.
 

cucvrus

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003.jpg004.jpg005.jpg006.jpg007.jpg008.jpg009.jpg010.jpg011.jpgI did a lot of work tonight. I installed a new GM block heater and a new fuel lift pump. We flipped it over and put the heads back on and am moving in the right direction. Last night I was doing some right rocker panel work and cleaning more bolts and nuts in the parts washer. It is time consuming but it looks nice when I am done with it. I want to repaint the heads after I get the rocker covers installed. They did a really nice job cooking the heads when I sent them out to have them redone at the machine shop. The raw casting does get a light rust coat on it pretty quickly in the humidity. Thank you for looking and have a nice day.
 
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