CUCV Horn relay

Camolad

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OK havent been here for awhile!

1985 cucv1009

I have a wiring diagram for the vehicle but we were going to sell our house and packed everything then decided to stay but everything from the shop is still packed!

I started the CUCV the other day after it sitting for 2.5 years. (I know LaLaLa...But after changing the right hand engine mount witn new Poly one Wich I had to reshape so it would fit into the metal clam shell of the old one and replacing the fuel line from the primary pump!!!) New fuel and voila! it started and felt so nice as it studered and finally purred under my butt! The problem is that the horn is on all the time unless I go to Black out. Where is the horn relay!

Cheers
Claude D
sorry for the spelling!
 

Camolad

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:driver:Thanks thanks thanks Warthog!

Even though I'm deaf in one ear that horn blowing all the time was really anoying LOL. It was the Diode bu the way. I'm assuming it was put there for the radio equipment and is not required for street use?

Calling the Insurance and hopefully get a plate sticker tomorow. On the road this weekend in all her CAMO glory...:jumpin:
 

patracy

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I had this same problem with mine. I pulled the relay and it still honked. I ended up unplugging the horn. Walked out to the truck just now and pulled that diode and reinstalled the relay and reconnected the horn. Works fine now!
 

doghead

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This is why I did not recommend using a diode to protect the relay, when doing the DH Starter Relay modification.
 

Warthog

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Added this thread to the CUCV Helpful Threads sticky

If you feel that you need a diode in the horn circuit, NAPA does sell a new horn relay that has the diode built in. You will need to remove the diode on the horn relay socket.
 

NEWBIE1

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Sorry if I am beating a dead horse here. I have the problem of the horn blaring when i try turning any lights on. found the horn relay. cut the harness and found the diode. seems that the diode has melted out of the socket. cut melted part out. horn still blared. hooked the black wires to each where the diode had been. still blares. bought new diode at radioshack. mock hooked it where it was to originally go, still blared. Do you guys think I should get another relay and see if that is the issue? Or any other ideas?

Thank you in advance
 

cpf240

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Sorry if I am beating a dead horse here. I have the problem of the horn blaring when i try turning any lights on. found the horn relay. cut the harness and found the diode. seems that the diode has melted out of the socket. cut melted part out. horn still blared. hooked the black wires to each where the diode had been. still blares. bought new diode at radioshack. mock hooked it where it was to originally go, still blared. Do you guys think I should get another relay and see if that is the issue? Or any other ideas?

Thank you in advance
Perhaps the horn button in the steering wheel is the problem?
 

NEWBIE1

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I will have to take a look at that. Again, it only blares when i flip the service switch. As long as I dont touch the switch theres no issue. The steering button has never worked. I was ok not having a horn, so it never bugged me. I hate to just unhook the horn now, although that would be a fast solution. It bugs me as it really wouldnt fix the issue.
 

cpf240

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The horn is part of the blackout switch, along with the lights. My guess is that the horn button is stuck on, probably a broken spring, so that when the blackout switch is in the Service lights on position, the horn relay activates. By the way, no need to replace the diode on the horn relay, just snip it out.
 

Keith_J

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This is why I did not recommend using a diode to protect the relay, when doing the DH Starter Relay modification.
Diode on the coil side of a relay protects against switch arcing. When the switch is released, there can be a fat spark as the magnetic field in the coil decays. This back EMF also has a radio frequency component which could cause interference with military radio communication.
 

cpf240

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Diode on the coil side of a relay protects against switch arcing. When the switch is released, there can be a fat spark as the magnetic field in the coil decays. This back EMF also has a radio frequency component which could cause interference with military radio communication.
Good point, had only thought about it from the military radio issue...
 

rumplecat

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I have the same problem, when the lights are on the horn blows, I was told the two circuits had grounded out together? I took the field expedient method and unhooked the horn. Need to revisit this one.
 

cpf240

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I have the same problem, when the lights are on the horn blows, I was told the two circuits had grounded out together? I took the field expedient method and unhooked the horn. Need to revisit this one.
in the case you mentioned, the two most common problems would be an issue with the horn button on the steering wheel, or the diode on the horn relay being shorted. There are other possibilities of course, but I think those would be the most common.
 

Tinstar

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I think in the stickies (old threads for sure) there are pictures of where the diode is located and what it looks like.

I know it's wrapped up in tape and you will have to cut the tape to get to it.
Once you find it, simply cut it out, tape off the ends (not back together) and your done.

A search of horn diode should provide old threads showing the pic.
 

OuttaTheWayPECK

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maybe some might think this a stupid question, but how does one remove the diode? or pull the diode? are these another meaning for cut it out and re-splice the wire back together?
 

Tinstar

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maybe some might think this a stupid question, but how does one remove the diode? or pull the diode? are these another meaning for cut it out and re-splice the wire back together?
It's not needed.
You simply cut it out with wire cutters
You do not splice it back together.
Just tape the ends back separately
Job done.
 

OuttaTheWayPECK

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awesome!! you rock tinstar! .. I just had the ground hanging. last time I hooked it up it was just blaring. I've rebuilt the steering column like 3 or 4 times already when I was replacing the blinker switch cause I was getting a clicking arc sound. was draining the batteries. screwing up all kinds of stuff... took me a few times to put it back together due to that ignition teeth wheel behind the key ignition connection to the starter relay on top of the column. all of it needed to be lined up the right way, on top of the teeth on that wheel behind the ignition key switch and the rod needed to be connected and slid into the U shape spot... All at the same time and shove the steering column outter cap part of the column to sink back together the right way and everything be right.. hahaha ... was such a fun project having never done a column before. it took this site, several youtube videos to figure it out. and funny thing is nobody every mentioned the round teeth wheel and it's alignment necessary to get that kickback necessary when you turn the key. I figured that part out on my own. I was heated after the 3rd time. But was a wonderful learning experience. thanks again
 
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