On my Blazer I have a 6" lift from ORD with all the options. DO NOT FORGET THE 2"DROP PITMAN ARM. This seems to be over looked a lot. your steering will horrible if you don't add that 2" drop pitman arm. Cross over steering would be best. I suggest getting all the optional pieces like the F.U.S.H. kit and grease able shackles ect ect. The Bilstien shocks and Bilstien steering stabilizer are a must. You will need to lengthen the front drive shaft and add a Cardan Joint on the rear drive shaft. You will need to go to someone who knows what they are doing for this. My setup was done by Tom Wood's drive shafts. This is a good time to beef up your U joins. I have a Dana 60 front with ARB and Corp 14 bolt with locker in the rear so they went with 1410 U-Joints from axle to axle. All of my U-joints are 1410. One size makes it easy to just carry one size spare. Plus they are super strong. If you are staying with your stock axles you can run something smaller. I Highly suggest you run a set of 1 ton axles though. 35's will eat your stock axles and spit them out on a daily basis in my opinion. You could beef up the stock axles with chromoly axles/stub axles which would help for sure. Good time to replace all the bearings, seals ect.. I run 33s and am quite happy. I may try a set of 35" but for now I like the 33" tires. If you decide to run 33s that would be easier on your stock axles but they are still not strong enough in my opinion unless you go the chromoly route. 33" tires and a 4" lift will make everything much easier and you may or may not need that Cardan joint. I still believe you will need to shorten and lengthen you drive shafts either way. A 4" lift will definitely reduce the overall cost greatly. A Blazer with a 4" lift and 33s looks great! A 6" lift will definitely cost you thousands more to do right and be safe as safe as a 6" short wheel base 35" tired lifted Blazer can be.