CUCV m1008 volt meter problems

harryhr

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I need to move my CUCV to the middle of the garage so I can open the drivers door and get the seat pushed back so I will have room to pull dash pane; off and look for the voltmeter relay. I hope that solves the problem of non-working voltage meter by replacing the relay. Thank you for your info.
 

Warthog

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No need to pull the dash panel cover. Two bolts and the mounting plate will come out. It is right above the big diagnostic plug at the center of the dash.
 

harryhr

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Thank you for the advise. I was not looking forward to taking dash apart. I want to be sure that I check and replace the correct relay. Which is the Voltmeter relay? Once the engine starts both gen lights go out so I don't think the #2 gen relay needs replaced, only the voltmeter relay. Hopefully that will solve the problem of the inop voltmeter. NAPA should have this part...I hope. Thank you again, much appreciated. When I was on active army duty I drove cucv's quite often and never experienced any problems (mechanical or electrical) go figure. My M1009 only has thirty two thousand and some change on it and I've already had to replace the brake shoes and pads and the hydraulic brake booster, #2 gen/alt and now the voltmeter relay. Hummmmmmm, maybe the darn thing doesn't like civilian life.
 

cucvrus

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Maybe its because it is 30 years old. And everyone has been messing with it. That is all part of owning and maintaining a 30 year old vehicle. When they get to be 50 it gets worse. Fix every small thing that happens and you should be good.
 

harryhr

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Well I really screwed things up today. I had started my cucv today so I could move it to the center of my garage. The belt on the alternator (gen 2) started squealing like crazy and wouldn't stop. After moving the beast into the middle of the garage and shutting off the engine, I raised the hood so I could loosen the bolt on the gen so I could tighten the belt a bit more. As I got ready to position a breaker bar, the gen slipped down and one of the electrical connections grounded itself to the bracket which in turn sparked and caused the gen 2 fusible blue wire on the firewall bracket to burn in half (happened too fast to react). How hard is it to replace the wire and are they available in parts store's? I'm not sure what type the wire connection ends are...plugs or crimps? Also the Gen2 and gen1 are connected together on one side. Any help would be much appreciated. Nothing was disturbed under the dash at the voltage relay switch or start relay.
 

harryhr

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The blue wire from gen1 was not affected. Just the gen2 wiring was affected. There is a short blue wire above the firewall bracket and the blue wire from gen2 whereas gen1 is connected together that was affected. My cucv electrical knowledge is limited but learning more every time something happens. Thank you to everyone for passing on their knowledge and experience in helping to solve related problems I am experiencing with my cucv. Without you guys, I would be totally lost.
 

cucvrus

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Easy fix. Disconnect the batteries to do it. You need a piece of Fusible link wiring and a few heat shrink butt connectors. Or just buy the fusible link already made up and replace it. Then tighten and adjust your belts and hook the batteries back up. You should be good to go. Get some covers on the + alternator studs. I scour junk yards for them when I get out to one. Most cars and trucks have them in some shape or form. They are just rubber boots that protect and cover the + stud on the alternators.
 

harryhr

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Thank you for the information, much appreciated. I will be going to NAPA or AutoZone as soon as possible to get the parts. The + alternator stud already has a rubber cover on it, so it's possible that when the alternator slipped loose that just enough stud was exposed when it bumped the alternator bracket causing the problem. I will be wrapping the cover with electrical tape just to be sure there will not be any exposed stud and or nut. Again thank you, much appreciated.
 

harryhr

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I went to AutoZone today and they do not have fusible link wiring (at least here in Niagara Falls they don't). I went over to NAPA and the two most knowledgeable guys that work there were off today and the other three counter guys had no clue what I was talking about even though I showed them a wiring schematic and explaining I need a 12 gage fusible link already made up. All they could come up with was wiring with a fuse holder. Anyone have a NAPA parts number for the 12 gage fusible link (preferably already made up)? Thanks, much appreciated.
 

harryhr

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Is there a NAPA part number for the Fusible link wiring that is already made up? I know the fusible wiring is 12 gage (4 gages higher than the wiring off the alternator which is 8 gage. Thank you for the info.
 

doghead

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No, the original wire is a GM assembly part.

It might be found on the interwebs if you google it's GM part number from the -20P TM.
 

beltfedonly

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Carquest parts store has the 12 gauge fusible link in 10 ft. roll for around $10.00. Just bought some this past weekend.
 

harryhr

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Tank you for the reply. I'll go there tomorrow. Hopefully the will have completed sets. I'm not that electrically inclined enough to make up proper connections and don't want to screw it up. Hopefully they will have parallel connectors too. AutoZone doesn't have anything I need. NAPA guys are lost in space. I never thought of CARQUEST and there is also an Advance auto store a couple miles away. Thank you again.
 

harryhr

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NAPA site does not list 12 gage fusible wiring nor does the store has it. I found it CARQUEST. Thank you for the info anyway. I do appreciate all the info I get here on SteelSoldiers. Harry
 

harryhr

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Niagara Falls, New York
I went to CARQUEST as you suggested and bought the 12 gage fusible link. Same length and price. They were out of the 12 gage heat shrink connectors so I will go back tomorrow when they get their delivery. Funny that they have all the other gage wiring ready made up but can only get 12 gage in a 10' roll. I found out that CARQUEST bought out Advance Auto parts. I didn't know that. Now I got to wait till the weather warms up enough so I can get under the hood and do some damage (I meant repairs). My wife says I spend too much time out in the garage breaking things.
 

dmilkman589

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So Volt meter still broke? According to the wire schematic it runs through the glow plug module... That could be bad as well.
 
Last edited:

doghead

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Schematics F6 and F7 cover the GP circuits and the volt meter circuit.

Neither shows then interconnected.
 

cucvrus

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Try VDO gauge 332-902 voltmeter 24 volt. It actually has real numbers on it.037.jpg034.jpgIt is an easy install it fits the hole and you can reuse the OEM harness that runs to the gauge. i have used several of them. They look nice and work well.
 
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