• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

CUCV M1009: Is it 3 OR 4 Outlets for Fuel Tank Sending Unit??

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
I was wrong about the temp light it comes on when I turn the engine over then it goes off.
well my temp light nor my low coolant light come one when I turn the key to the "on" position, nor after I start the truck. They worked perfectly after I replaced the sensors a couple months ago. Have no idea what happened. All I did was pull the cluster out to push the speedometer cable fully on, as I apparently did not do so the last time when I put it back together.

Every time I take the dash apart, I fix one thing only to have something else stop working....
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
461
488
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
well my temp light nor my low coolant light come one when I turn the key to the "on" position, nor after I start the truck. They worked perfectly after I replaced the sensors a couple months ago. Have no idea what happened. All I did was pull the cluster out to push the speedometer cable fully on, as I apparently did not do so the last time when I put it back together.

Every time I take the dash apart, I fix one thing only to have something else stop working....
@Commander5993 maybe double check the Big Plug at the back of the Cluster. If it’s not in all the way it can cause problems. It needs to click on both sides of the plug. Maybe clean it as well. Food for thought.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
@Commander5993 maybe double check the Big Plug at the back of the Cluster. If it’s not in all the way it can cause problems. It needs to click on both sides of the plug. Maybe clean it as well. Food for thought.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I just replaced the "flexible" circuit board on the back of the cluster a month or so ago with a brand new one. Cleaned the main plug and everything, and it was working fine at that time.

And this time I plugged and unplugged it several times, making sure it was fully seated. I don't know, doesn't make sense why only those two lights aren't working. I almost would think it was a ground issue or something, as they don't have any other common circuit. But all the other lights work just fine.
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
461
488
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
I just replaced the "flexible" circuit board on the back of the cluster a month or so ago with a brand new one. Cleaned the main plug and everything, and it was working fine at that time.

And this time I plugged and unplugged it several times, making sure it was fully seated. I don't know, doesn't make sense why only those two lights aren't working. I almost would think it was a ground issue or something, as they don't have any other common circuit. But all the other lights work just fine.
@Commander5993 man that’s frustrating. You’re so close to finishing. One last thought, beyond the Ground idea. Turn one of the Bulbs ever so slightly, then again, then again. Those bulbs can sometimes be just oh so slightly off and not work properly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
@Commander5993 man that’s frustrating. You’re so close to finishing. One last thought, beyond the Ground idea. Turn one of the Bulbs ever so slightly, then again, then again. Those bulbs can sometimes be just oh so slightly off and not work properly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
yep, done that too. even changed the bulb sockets, changed back from the LED bulbs to the standard 194s, no change.
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
.
Wonder if a "little dab will do you" spot of anti-oxidant paste would help transfer the juice to the sides (ground) of the bulb.
I have used that in most electrical connections. Can't remember if I put any in these new bulb sockets though. But I switched those two bulbs w/sockets with two other sockets/bulbs in other spots on the cluster (i think seatbelt and.... forgot the other). The place I put the original two, they worked just fine in their new spots. But the "new" socket/bulbs that I switched back into the temp and low coolant light spots still didn't work.

Also looking at the main plug, you can see the rub and contact marks on all contact points on the new flexible "circuit panel". So it has to be making contact. Its also just been these two lights... the temp light arguably being the most important light on the dash... that stopped working. And they were working perfectly after replacing the circuit panel... heck they were working fine with the OLD circuit panel after I replaced the sensors.

It just doesn't make sense. its almost like those two sensors are dead again or something. And those were AC Delco's that I just installed a month or so ago. And yeah just because parts are new doesn't mean they are good... But for both of them to stop working at the same time is pretty implausible.

Also I even pulled the wire from the low coolant sensor and left it not touching anything, which means it should have an "open circuit" (like it would when the coolant would be low) and this should have turned the light on. But it still didn't do anything.

I'm not sure how to test the temp light, as I'm pretty sure it works on resistance. And because of that, I don't think having it "plugged in" or "unplugged" would show if its working or not.

I hate electrical gremlins... :deadhorse:👹👹
 

adf5565

Well-known member
375
687
93
Location
Tioga, PA
I have used that in most electrical connections. Can't remember if I put any in these new bulb sockets though. But I switched those two bulbs w/sockets with two other sockets/bulbs in other spots on the cluster (i think seatbelt and.... forgot the other). The place I put the original two, they worked just fine in their new spots. But the "new" socket/bulbs that I switched back into the temp and low coolant light spots still didn't work.

Also looking at the main plug, you can see the rub and contact marks on all contact points on the new flexible "circuit panel". So it has to be making contact. Its also just been these two lights... the temp light arguably being the most important light on the dash... that stopped working. And they were working perfectly after replacing the circuit panel... heck they were working fine with the OLD circuit panel after I replaced the sensors.

It just doesn't make sense. its almost like those two sensors are dead again or something. And those were AC Delco's that I just installed a month or so ago. And yeah just because parts are new doesn't mean they are good... But for both of them to stop working at the same time is pretty implausible.

Also I even pulled the wire from the low coolant sensor and left it not touching anything, which means it should have an "open circuit" (like it would when the coolant would be low) and this should have turned the light on. But it still didn't do anything.

I'm not sure how to test the temp light, as I'm pretty sure it works on resistance. And because of that, I don't think having it "plugged in" or "unplugged" would show if its working or not.

I hate electrical gremlins...:deadhorse:👹👹
Here is another thread on the topic (probably more out there too) on troubleshooting the lights. It’s on my list of things to do as well since none of my lights come on either.

 
Top