Firehound
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- New Caney, TX
I'm getting closer to actually pulling the 6.2 out of the CUCV for installation in my K20. (I have a picked over CUCV that I'm swapping the motor into my K20.) I stumbled into this (link below) great article about the CUCV Charging system, and I'm really torn. I'd like to keep the jumper plug, and I'm thinking of 3 ways to do it:
1) Keep the CUCV 24/12V system intact and bring it over to the K20. Not sure how "healthy" the electrical system is, as gutted as the truck is. Last time I ran it, one of the alternator harnesses started glowing red. At this point, I will assume I need to build the 24v system from scratch.
2) Install a 2 way switch that will set the batteries in 12v Parallel for regular service, or 24v Series for jumping purposes. The downside here is in 24v service, the truck is disconnected from the batteries. (Switch Position one: 24v jumper plug is disconnected and does nothing. Switch position 2: the 24v Jumper is connected, and the batteries are isolated from the rest of the truck's electrical system.)
3) Set the truck up for standard 12v operation and make a "Nato 12v" jumper plug (to output to a standard jumper clamp cable) for the truck.... and hope that nobody (myself included!!) isn't thinking and connects a 24v truck to the system!
(And whichever option I go with might very well be duplicated over on my suburban... it's a diesel K20 as well.)
I like Option 2, that gives me the possibility of jumping my own M35A2 (or the other way around) if the situation needs it.
Is there an option 2.1 that will let me use the 24v system and also the 12v at the same time?
1) Keep the CUCV 24/12V system intact and bring it over to the K20. Not sure how "healthy" the electrical system is, as gutted as the truck is. Last time I ran it, one of the alternator harnesses started glowing red. At this point, I will assume I need to build the 24v system from scratch.
2) Install a 2 way switch that will set the batteries in 12v Parallel for regular service, or 24v Series for jumping purposes. The downside here is in 24v service, the truck is disconnected from the batteries. (Switch Position one: 24v jumper plug is disconnected and does nothing. Switch position 2: the 24v Jumper is connected, and the batteries are isolated from the rest of the truck's electrical system.)
3) Set the truck up for standard 12v operation and make a "Nato 12v" jumper plug (to output to a standard jumper clamp cable) for the truck.... and hope that nobody (myself included!!) isn't thinking and connects a 24v truck to the system!
(And whichever option I go with might very well be duplicated over on my suburban... it's a diesel K20 as well.)
I like Option 2, that gives me the possibility of jumping my own M35A2 (or the other way around) if the situation needs it.
Is there an option 2.1 that will let me use the 24v system and also the 12v at the same time?
