CUCVRUS Repair Projects

marchplumber

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Peoria, Illinois
That was a nice K5 in the day. It had A/C, power doors, tilt wheel and everything. I imagine it is a 1978. That snow plowing killed and still kills many good vehicles. I had a 1977 K5 with a 400 in it. With the lid on the air cleaner flipped it sounded like it was ready to take off. I was out working on a customers M1009. I was looking at the hitch ball. It was loose on the mount. I tried tightening it. No way. I used a 1200 ft lb impact and could not budge it. I used a long bar and a pipe to break it loose. I see why it was tight and why it wasn't going to tighten. I was thinking torch but it came off. I was able to use the HD impact for the last inch of threads. WOW. That ball was not part of that pintle combination that ball was added later. Any thoughts? View attachment 846002 View attachment 846003 View attachment 846004
Machine shop cut ya some new threads?
 

ssdvc

Active member
608
67
28
Location
CT
That was a nice K5 in the day. It had A/C, power doors, tilt wheel and everything. I imagine it is a 1978. That snow plowing killed and still kills many good vehicles. I had a 1977 K5 with a 400 in it. With the lid on the air cleaner flipped it sounded like it was ready to take off. I was out working on a customers M1009. I was looking at the hitch ball. It was loose on the mount. I tried tightening it. No way. I used a 1200 ft lb impact and could not budge it. I used a long bar and a pipe to break it loose. I see why it was tight and why it wasn't going to tighten. I was thinking torch but it came off. I was able to use the HD impact for the last inch of threads. WOW. That ball was not part of that pintle combination that ball was added later. Any thoughts? View attachment 846002 View attachment 846003 View attachment 846004
I have one on the back of my truck. Definitely lightweight, but I don't haul much anyway. It will handle my little #2000 capacity trailer when carrying my Ingersoll 6018 just fine.
 

ezgn

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
213
326
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Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
That was a nice K5 in the day. It had A/C, power doors, tilt wheel and everything. I imagine it is a 1978. That snow plowing killed and still kills many good vehicles. I had a 1977 K5 with a 400 in it. With the lid on the air cleaner flipped it sounded like it was ready to take off. I was out working on a customers M1009. I was looking at the hitch ball. It was loose on the mount. I tried tightening it. No way. I used a 1200 ft lb impact and could not budge it. I used a long bar and a pipe to break it loose. I see why it was tight and why it wasn't going to tighten. I was thinking torch but it came off. I was able to use the HD impact for the last inch of threads. WOW. That ball was not part of that pintle combination that ball was added later. Any thoughts? View attachment 846002 View attachment 846003 View attachment 846004
Rusttight thread locker.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
9,945
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
1632570256151.png
When you see a vehicle with excessive rust. Be very careful and think " Do I want to put this thing up on a lift and stand under it. I had a 4 X 4 Isuzu P'up diesel and welded the frame several times to get it to pass inspection. I seen it a few years later in a scrap yard and the only thing left of the frame was the galvaneal frame sections I added. I sold it because I seen the end was coming. Rust NEVER SLEEPS. It can not be stopped without leaving the vehicle parked in a dry climate controlled building. CUCV's and all old vehicles were rusting the next day after they left the plant. Even 2022 vehicles and cab chassis I look at have untreated bare steel on driveline and frame components. Planned obsolescence. Have a Great Day. Be Safe
 

ezgn

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
213
326
63
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
View attachment 846271
When you see a vehicle with excessive rust. Be very careful and think " Do I want to put this thing up on a lift and stand under it. I had a 4 X 4 Isuzu P'up diesel and welded the frame several times to get it to pass inspection. I seen it a few years later in a scrap yard and the only thing left of the frame was the galvaneal frame sections I added. I sold it because I seen the end was coming. Rust NEVER SLEEPS. It can not be stopped without leaving the vehicle parked in a dry climate controlled building. CUCV's and all old vehicles were rusting the next day after they left the plant. Even 2022 vehicles and cab chassis I look at have untreated bare steel on driveline and frame components. Planned obsolescence. Have a Great Day. Be Safe
It was fine when I brought it in to him!
 

cucvrus

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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I received a few pictures via Email on an estimate to repair this Blazer.
No photo description available.

No photo description available.

No photo description available.

No photo description available.

No photo description available.

No photo description available.

A friend seen it on Facebook market for $2500. He called me and ask if I got the pictures. I said yes. I ask if he was near the vehicle. He said he was on his way to look at it. I said make a U turn and head back home. That is NOT worth the effort. The gate was held on with bungee straps and the frame was very rusty. Snow Plow vehicle. DO NOT BUY. He said it ain't that bad. I said I won't even look at it. He said I have CASH I will pay you. I told him I was not interested. I hope he understands. I would not want this vehicle for $500. Rust never sleeps. Besides I have fields I can't keep plowed at this point I am not looking for any more acreage. Last I knew he didn't buy it. I really hate RUST. Where would you start on this thing and where would you finish? Looks like a money pit to me. Unsafe at any speed. Have a Great Day. Scrap prices are still high here.
 

Sezzo

Active member
55
103
33
Location
Bavaria (Germany)
I received a few pictures via Email on an estimate to repair this Blazer.
No photo description available.

No photo description available.

No photo description available.

No photo description available.

No photo description available.

No photo description available.

A friend seen it on Facebook market for $2500. He called me and ask if I got the pictures. I said yes. I ask if he was near the vehicle. He said he was on his way to look at it. I said make a U turn and head back home. That is NOT worth the effort. The gate was held on with bungee straps and the frame was very rusty. Snow Plow vehicle. DO NOT BUY. He said it ain't that bad. I said I won't even look at it. He said I have CASH I will pay you. I told him I was not interested. I hope he understands. I would not want this vehicle for $500. Rust never sleeps. Besides I have fields I can't keep plowed at this point I am not looking for any more acreage. Last I knew he didn't buy it. I really hate RUST. Where would you start on this thing and where would you finish? Looks like a money pit to me. Unsafe at any speed. Have a Great Day. Scrap prices are still high here.
Buy it for $350 and sell it to the scrapyard for $750 - good deal.
 

WWRD99

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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345
63
Location
York Pa
I received a few pictures via Email on an estimate to repair this Blazer.
No photo description available.

No photo description available.

No photo description available.

No photo description available.

No photo description available.

No photo description available.

A friend seen it on Facebook market for $2500. He called me and ask if I got the pictures. I said yes. I ask if he was near the vehicle. He said he was on his way to look at it. I said make a U turn and head back home. That is NOT worth the effort. The gate was held on with bungee straps and the frame was very rusty. Snow Plow vehicle. DO NOT BUY. He said it ain't that bad. I said I won't even look at it. He said I have CASH I will pay you. I told him I was not interested. I hope he understands. I would not want this vehicle for $500. Rust never sleeps. Besides I have fields I can't keep plowed at this point I am not looking for any more acreage. Last I knew he didn't buy it. I really hate RUST. Where would you start on this thing and where would you finish? Looks like a money pit to me. Unsafe at any speed. Have a Great Day. Scrap prices are still high here.
So glad ours isn't that bad...albeit it is bad but has good supports...replacing just the floor pans and rockers isn't horrible until you get into structure then it gets nuts!!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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4,870
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I was looking at the M1009 that a customer brought me for a lot of work. I rebuilt this M1009 about 7-8 years ago. I noticed the gate was not closing properly.DSCF8124.JPG DSCF8125.JPG It was out of adjustment and there is very little adjustment to get these gates in further and tighter. I removed the strikers and cut the adjustment slots bigger on the striker mounts.DSCF8126.JPG This is uncut. DSCF8127.JPGCut and allowing for the angle. The tool I used DSCF8128.JPG The gate closes nice an tight. I always tell people it is normal to push in on the gate from the outside to open them. If not the gate could be popped from the inside while the vehicle is in motion. DSCF8129.JPG Next I am going to service the rear window regulator and change out the rear glass and sash. I see someone was in here working since I built this M1009. Someone replaced the rear glass guides the bolts were finger tight and Not what belongs there. DSCF8130.JPG DSCF8131.JPG Good Luck.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
9,945
4,870
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Next I removed the rear access panel. DSCF8132 - Copy.JPGYes this truck has Line X sprayed in the entire interior up to the bed rails. Removing the rear window felts/rubbers is the worst part of this job. DSCF8134 - Copy.JPG I have both removed with a moulding tool. Next I must remove the 4 bolts from the sash and roller guide brackets. DSCF8133 - Copy.JPG The sash was in poor condition and bent. The other side was out of alignment. DSCF8135.JPG DSCF8136.JPG The regulator rollers were dry and crusty, gritty. DSCF8137.JPG I carefully cleaned the rollers and oiled them so they turned semi easily. Just so they did move and not remain frozen. I know everyone can do this I used Dawn dish soap and and old tooth brush to scrub the guides and get them squeaky clean. DSCF8138.JPG The left is before cleaning. And the right of course is the Dawn clean guide. DSCF8139.JPG Both clean and ready for new grease. Use real grease and oil. No spray grease. DSCF8140.JPGThe greasy stuff works best grease the gears on teh reguklator and oil the crank handle and latches. Use plenty of grease and oil. wipe excess clean and you will see a world of difference inthe ease that the window operates up and down. I reassembled the rear gate and opened and closed the gate a few times. I oiled the hinges really well and the torsion bars I oiled and greased. I cleaned everything up and wound the window up and down a few times. 100% improvement. I recommend checking that rear gate and window regulator every time you feel the window is cranking harder. Cleaning and oiling is less expensive then a regulator. And lately I bought a few A C Delco rear window regulators that were junk. I had brand new one pop after a few times up and down. I know they are imports I can see it in the metal and the fasteners they use. So if you have a working OEM one get it apart and clean, grease and oil it. Keep it moving and it will last a long time. Same as the handle crank. Take it apart and grease and oil every moving part. Good Luck on your projects. Be Safe.
 

M1009_SPAIN

Active member
35
110
33
Location
Spain
Next I removed the rear access panel. View attachment 846618Yes this truck has Line X sprayed in the entire interior up to the bed rails. Removing the rear window felts/rubbers is the worst part of this job. View attachment 846617 I have both removed with a moulding tool. Next I must remove the 4 bolts from the sash and roller guide brackets. View attachment 846619 The sash was in poor condition and bent. The other side was out of alignment. View attachment 846620 View attachment 846621 The regulator rollers were dry and crusty, gritty. View attachment 846622 I carefully cleaned the rollers and oiled them so they turned semi easily. Just so they did move and not remain frozen. I know everyone can do this I used Dawn dish soap and and old tooth brush to scrub the guides and get them squeaky clean. View attachment 846623 The left is before cleaning. And the right of course is the Dawn clean guide. View attachment 846624 Both clean and ready for new grease. Use real grease and oil. No spray grease. View attachment 846625The greasy stuff works best grease the gears on teh reguklator and oil the crank handle and latches. Use plenty of grease and oil. wipe excess clean and you will see a world of difference inthe ease that the window operates up and down. I reassembled the rear gate and opened and closed the gate a few times. I oiled the hinges really well and the torsion bars I oiled and greased. I cleaned everything up and wound the window up and down a few times. 100% improvement. I recommend checking that rear gate and window regulator every time you feel the window is cranking harder. Cleaning and oiling is less expensive then a regulator. And lately I bought a few A C Delco rear window regulators that were junk. I had brand new one pop after a few times up and down. I know they are imports I can see it in the metal and the fasteners they use. So if you have a working OEM one get it apart and clean, grease and oil it. Keep it moving and it will last a long time. Same as the handle crank. Take it apart and grease and oil every moving part. Good Luck on your projects. Be Safe.

great job, like all the ones you do
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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4,870
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Tonight after work I had planned on mowing grass again. As sson as the thought crossed my mind and I was going out the door the skies opened up and iyt poured down rain. So much for that job. I had other things that needed taken care of. It has been a couple years since I started an M1009 I have stored in the outbuilding on another property. These first pictures remind me of an under seas adventure like the Titanic. DSCF8143.JPG It has been setting there about 10 years and was stripped of all the parts. Not sure what the plan was but I have it back in my possession again. DSCF8144.JPG Everything mechanical and electrical is there and in place. DSCF8148.JPGThe batteries are dead and I was able to slave start it. It glowed and fired right up. I drove it outside around the yard. DSCF8145.JPG DSCF8146.JPG I had put new rockers on it before I sold it and basically it is how I sold it except it is missing all the body parts. They are gone forever. No problem. DSCF8147.JPG I cut the rear radio rack mounts off the wheel well tubs. DSCF8149.JPG It had some floor rust I glued and graphed some sections from a donor CUCV onto the rusty area. DSCF8151.JPG The right side rear corner is really clean. DSCF8150.JPG The unit did have some rusty rocker panels. I replaced them. DSCF8152.JPG But all in all it is a decent vehicle with 52K miles. When I bought it it still had the factory rubber mat and the jute under the mat. It was always wet inside and I removed all the interior and I found the floor had bad spots in it. I bought this unit in 2006 so I know the history. Someone else bought it as is and was going to complete it. that fell thru and I ended up getting it back minus all the parts. This will be my final CUCV rebuild. After this edition I am retiring from the trade and washing out my barn and keeping all my nice toys inside. I just wanted to share the pictures because I have a few customers in Germany that has some interest in these vehicles and maybe this one in particular. I can't rush it. That don't work out well. Take Care and enjoy the pictures.
 
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