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Current Load in Accessory/Master Switch?

houdel

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Does anyone have an idea of the current load handled by the accessory (master) switch in a Deuce? I am aware that this switch is a DPST switch with two inputs (two circuits numbered #11, which are split off circuit #15, the +24V feed from the light switch) and two outputs (circuit #1, which energizes the alternator and feeds the manifold heater; and circuit #27, which feeds the starter switch, low air pressure system, and fuel pump).

It doesn't SEEM like the accessory switch handles a lot of current. I'm getting tired of chaining my steering wheel every time I have to park the Deuce in indian territory and was thinking of replacing the accessory switch with a keyed ingition switch.

I was thinking of something like the one Saturn Surplus has for $12.50. I'd tie both #11 circuits to the input, circuit #1 to the "accessory" terminal, circuit #27 to the "on" terminal, and run a jumper from the "start" teminal to the starter relay circuit #74A so I could enjoy turn key starting. I just wonder if the Saturn switch would handle the current. Saturn does not give a current rating for thier switch, but I'd guess it to be able to handle at least 20 amps, would that be sufficient?

http://saturnsurplus.com/electrical/9366.htm

I'd really like to get the Hella 4008HD switch, it is much cooler looking and is rated at 20A ignition, 25A start, and 30A accessory, but I can't find anyone who carries it. I've googled Hella & tried every Hella retailer I could find, but no luck finding the switch. Does anyone know of a source for the Hella 4008HD switch?

http://www.hella.com/produktion/Hel...roducts/Newsletter/Product News Volume 17.pdf

It is shown in the middle of the brochure which pops up from the above link.

TIA, Lee
 

gbooth

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Lee I got a Caterpillar master switch, wired it in line with the wire going to the switch from off the solenoid from where it picks up power. Has a key and when you turn it off and remove the key all electrical is dead. I ran this on 10 gauge wire. It does not take away from the look of the dask and works very well.
 

NEIOWA

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gbooth said:
Lee I got a Caterpillar master switch, ...l.
Not that it would necessary be a "gottcha" but doesn't every single CAT ignition switch use the same key (as ever CUCV has the same key)?

Any standard ignition swich with an appropriately sized relay will handle any load and with NO safety worries. A better way to go with more than a small load.
 

gbooth

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Yes But most kids and other people don’t have a cat key. Most of the people that do would not need it to start the truck anyway. You could always put it in the battery box out of site and lock the battery compertment door. This only keeps honest people honest and kids from messing with and accidentally starting the truck.. If a thief really wants it they will get it.
 

houdel

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Chase, MI
My second best idea was to use a hidden battery disconnect switch as suggested, AND hang a regular keyed ignition switch conveniently below the dash. Except instead of wiring the ignition switch to the start circuit, I'd wire it to the air horn solenoid maybe with a 24V flasher in series. Should some scumball try to hot wire the ignition they would get quite a surprise!
 

m35a2cowner

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Columbus, Ohio
switch

I put a heavy duty battery cut out switch (NAPA) in the lower left corner (just above floor 3 inches or so) of the fire wall. Not far from transmission hump. There was a place to cut a proper sized hole there witch once drilled out readily accepted the switch. I took the battery cable off of the starter and ran it to one side of the switch. I then put a short battery cable from the switch to the starter. Took about 30 minutes to install. The switch cuts off all power. The switch is painted the same color as the floor and is in a location where no one is looking for it. It can be turned on while sitting in the driver's seat and when the key is removed a floor mat can cover it. The key can be removed when the switch is on or off. Just in case the bad guys were energetic enough to lift the hood the back side of the switch has been undercoated so as not to be noticeable unless you know its there. It works well in any weather The batteries remain connected but the open spot in the feed line is hard to detect without spending some time. If your interested I can post some pictures
 

houdel

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M35a2cowner - I'd like to see a photo of where you mountted the switch. Do you have the NAPA part number? Its a b**** trying to search the NAPA site to find most things, at least the oddball stuff I'm interested in!
 

m35a2cowner

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Columbus, Ohio
switch

I'll post some pictures tomorrow (dark/late here) and I will try to find you the part number for the switch. I agree on the NAPA website, so many goodies so hard to find, maybe an idea for a lame TV show. Man vs computer in an never ending quest to find the right part.
 

houdel

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Chase, MI
NAPA's search engine is really F***ed up. I put in the NAPA #KS6180 from devilman96's post above, it came up with a listing "Ignition Starter Switch ECHKS610", a nice looking switch which I guess is the one devilman96 is using. But if you do a Keyword search for "Ignition Starter Switch", it gives you four subcategories to search:

"Ignition Starter Switch - Ag"
"Ignition Starter Switch - Power Equipment"
"Ignition Starter Switch - Universal"
"Ignition Starter Switch - Universal Marine"

The "Ag" subcategory has no items listed, the "Power Equipment" subcategory has 21 listings for stuff like lawn tractors etc., the "Universal" subcategory has NO items listed, and the "Universal Marine" subcategory has two items listed, but the KS6180 doesn't show up anywhere, even when you use the exact title from the NAPA item description! STUPID!!!!!

I also tried a "battery disconnect" keyword search and didn't find anything of interest, which is why I asked if you had the NAPA number for the one you bought - having the NAPA part number is the only way to find what you want!
 

gbooth

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Houndel I reallly like the horn Idea. Might need to keep some towels for when they $h!tt there pants. You know for clean up.
 

houdel

Active member
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8
36
Location
Chase, MI
I went with the Napa NP KS6180 keyed ignition switch that devilman96 suggested, cost me $18.80 at the local NAPA store. The NAPA switch takes a 3/4" double "D" mounting hole (like a round hole with a flat on each side to keep the switch from rotating, the top and bottom of the hole are round and 3/4" apart, the sides are straight and a little over 1/2" apart). I used my Dremel tool to enlarge the original accessory switch hole just enough to fit the NAPA switch. I didn't take much metal out, I could reinstall the original switch and switch plate and you wouldn't be able to tell it had been modified. As you can see in the photo, the hole for the pin on the original accessory switch that locates the switch plate is visible, so there was not much metal taken out of the dash.

I connected both #11 circuits (+24V) to the "Bat" terminal of the new switch, circuit #1 (feed to alternator & manifold heater, actually marked 55 on my Deuce) to the "Accy" terminal, circuit #27 (starter, fuel pump, low air pressure, front wheel drive and guages) to the "on" terminal, and ran a jumper from the "start" terminal to the starter relay circuit #74A. That way I can start the truck with either the ignition switch or the original push button switch.

The connectors to the original switch are military rubber female connectors. I didn't have any military style connectors, so I used .157" dia. male "bullet" connectors (NAPA/Baldwin #784341). They snap in nice and tight just like the military connectors, but only cost $1.83 for 20 connectors versus the $1.00 each Saturn charges for military connectors. The NAPA/Baldwin #784353 .157 dia. female connectors are also a perfect fit to the military male connectors.

After I installed the NAPA switch, I painted it OD to match the dash panel, it almost looks like it belongs there.

M35A2cowner, I do like your battery disconnect solution. One of these days, as money and time permit, I will install a keyed battery disconnect to cut off ALL +24V power to the vehicle, both as an anti-theft device and to completely isolate the batteries for safety when I am doing any electrical work.
 

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