Custom Oil Cooler lines...pics...info?

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85CUCVtom

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Moving the oring adapters to the front was genius. That has been the bggest challenge with doing an AN line and each of us had the part we needed but didn't know.
Thanks for the feedback!

I think those brass adapters can still be found online if someone needed new ones or extras.


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Tinstar

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Looks really good.
Dont forget to secure the braided line to the fenderwell.
It will chafe the heck out of it if it's allowed bounce around.

Also Recommend to put somethkng beteeen the hoses so they don't rub against each other.

Now you'll never have to worry about where to get replacement hose.
 

85CUCVtom

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Looks really good.
Dont forget to secure the braided line to the fenderwell.
It will chafe the heck out of it if it's allowed bounce around.

Also Recommend to put somethkng beteeen the hoses so they don't rub against each other.

Now you'll never have to worry about where to get replacement hose.
I'm definitely going to anchor everything. I don't think it's in the photos but I slid heater hose over a small section that contacts the frame rail. Seemed to work pretty well.


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Recovry4x4

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I'm definitely going to anchor everything. I don't think it's in the photos but I slid heater hose over a small section that contacts the frame rail. Seemed to work pretty well.


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You can certainly see the hose insulating the braided line.
 

royalflush55

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Did you use any kind of sealant on the npt fittings? It would be good to know if both hoses would work with the 45 degree fittings at the block and come away from there together. Thanks for the pictures.
 

85CUCVtom

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Did you use any kind of sealant on the npt fittings? It would be good to know if both hoses would work with the 45 degree fittings at the block and come away from there together. Thanks for the pictures.
Going into the block I just used an anti-seize compound. I was more concerned with the aluminum seizing to the iron. The taper of the pipe thread should seal up though.

On the upper fittings I used a product called Leak Lock but only on the tapered threads. Everything else is flare or o-ring fittings so if they are leaking, I have other issues.


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Tinstar

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I'm definitely going to anchor everything. I don't think it's in the photos but I slid heater hose over a small section that contacts the frame rail. Seemed to work pretty well.
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I see that in the pic and that will work great.

Recommend same thing anyplace the hose has a chance of rubbing on anything, including the other braided hose.
Braided line is extremely tough, but not infallible, and these trucks aren't the smoothest in the vibration department.
 

85CUCVtom

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I see that in the pic and that will work great.

Recommend same thing anyplace the hose has a chance of rubbing on anything, including the other braided hose.
Braided line is extremely tough, but not infallible, and these trucks aren't the smoothest in the vibration department.
I plan on anchoring the lines using the factory hold down bracket. Thanks for the feedback.


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cucvrus

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I would let them hang and swing in the breeze. If you anchor them they will never wear out and you won't have anything to do. :) Just kidding. Sounds like a plan. Carry On.
 

85CUCVtom

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I would let them hang and swing in the breeze. If you anchor them they will never wear out and you won't have anything to do. :) Just kidding. Sounds like a plan. Carry On.
If we were at work, I'd call that job security. Haha!


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Warthog

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Great work 84CUCVtom. I have added this to the Helpful Threads sticky.
 

stahlfaust

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Looks great! Sadly it does not solve my problem:

I am in the process of replacing the complete oil cooler line setup including the pipes, since they are known to fail and one of my pipes already has deep scratch marks from rubbing against the radiator.

This guy solved the problem with the radiator fittings:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/20-6-2l-diesel-engine/802482-oil-cooler-radiator-fittings-what-size-once-all-3.html#post8101018

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm1145/overview/

3/4-18 in. inverted flare on the on the oil cooler side. Standard NPT 3/8 " pipe fitting on the block side. I will use PTFE stainless steel hose end to end.

I will post some pics once it's finished.
 

Chaski

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Wanted to add some part numbers if anyone wants steel adapters to go into the block and to couple with the stock fitting adapter.

McMaster Carr has them. Going steel you can get a 3/8" NPT female to -8 in one fitting.

Screen Shot 2018-02-24 at 7.48.26 PM.jpg
 

Chaski

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Got the hoses replaced with hydraulic hose. Turned out pretty decent. Only catch is that hydraulic hose isn’t very flexible.
55E7D704-33F3-48BB-8CF0-572210CFD8E7.jpg
 

cucvrus

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And I don't think it will like the heat there either. That looks close to the exhaust manifold. Do they bend the tubing where they make the hoses. Or are you stuck with off the shelf pre-bent tubing ends? Is there a bolt missing from the flywheel cover? Just asking a few questions. A picture is worth a thousand words.
 

Chaski

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The 90 and 45 are pre-bent. They are pretty close, worst one is about 3/8” away from the edge of the manifold. The hose is double wire 3,900 psi rated. We’ll see how they hold up.

The Flywheel cover is only held on by 4 bolts. The 700R4 I have in it is from 1990, and it is an oddball “K” case that does not have the two threaded ears nearest the engine block. General Motors decided to forgo them for exhaust clearance. I had the matching 4 bolt cover, but it wouldn’t clear the diesel starter. So I have a 6 bolt “K” case flywheel cover on a 4 bolt “K” case 700R4. Looks a little weird, works great.
 

Chaski

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Rick’s point was taken and I pulled off the offending line today and made it fit a little better. Made the long 90 into a 70... ish degree fitting. Better, still not fantastic. Also added a pic of my weird 700R4 case.

.BAA254FB-3A07-4557-8588-30F97421294D.jpgFCFDF779-37F2-4D91-8C59-B0F27B97EA62.jpgAE5AD080-AA6E-4030-AE13-2F8C3AF1D622.jpg
 
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