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D60/14BFF Axle Swap on M1009

Ilikemtb999

Active member
691
42
28
Location
Denver, CO
I plan on getting longer front shock mounts at some point (probably not the fords)but need to redo my downpipe so I have a place for the shock to sit.

Ill probably go with bilsteins since they feel awesome on my Silverado. Right now I have tuff country shocks. Made in the USA but are harsh over bumps and seem to get hot quick on trail
 

Chaski

Active member
684
55
28
Location
Burney/CA
What type of shocks did you choose and why?
Bilstein 5125's. (The one size fits all ORD front ones and 11" travel rears)
With one ton axles and big tires you have a huge amount of unsprung weight. I went with the shocks because I use my rig to commute in the winter, and about half of my drive is freeway travel. The Bilstein shocks really tamed vibration and manners at 55-70 mph.

The big reason I went with the longer front shocks and higher mounts was to not use the shock to limit up travel. In my experience with a 4" lift shock it will collapse fully before the front axle hits the bumpstop.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
my 1009 has 1 ton axles with the bilstein shocks and the ride is excellent. I have 4 inch lift ez ride tough country front springs and 4 inch shackle flip, stock rear springs. I also installed the ford shock mounts from ORD.

I also have 1 inch zero rates front and back for a total of 5 inches of lift. I don't have a sway bar and I am considering putting the stock one back on with sway bar drop kit.

Truck can get into a sway back and forth situation if you are sawing in the steering wheel on the highway. I have hydro assist steering and it holds the wheels straight. when the truck rocks back and forth due to bumps in road you have a tendency to work the wheel back and forth just a little. Doing this can cause the truck to start a bad sway. It is not side to side but more of a front to back wiggle. If it starts to happen best thing to do is let go of the steering wheel and it stops. It is controllable and once you know how to drive the truck, it does not happen.

The problem is when you hit a bump and think you need to correct with the steering wheel, you don't, just keep the wheel in one place and the truck rocks a little and keeps going straight.
Without the hydro assist, It was a much bigger problem.

I have 39 inch tall by 11 wide tires on 16 inch rims, the large tire on the small rim creates some sway just in the tires. (yes, the front fenders are heavily modified but in a way it is hard to tell)

I thought the hydro assist would only be a help off road but it is a great help on the high way. The truck really drives straight even on bumpy roads, you can drive it with one finger and only minor corrections are needed in the steering wheel. It has zero bump steer with the hydro assist and thus you need no steering corrections when driving on rough roads.

I think they cross over hydro steering is one of my favorite changes in the truck.

I will also add that a front selectable locker is probably the best off road accessory you can add to the truck. When all 4 tires are locked together it drives like a bulldozer. It only gets stuck if you high center the axles for which I have managed to do once already.

Rich
 

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86m1028

Active member
1,687
16
38
Location
Murphy TEXAS
my 1009 has 1 ton axles with the bilstein shocks and the ride is excellent. I have 4 inch lift ez ride tough country front springs and 4 inch shackle flip, stock rear springs. I also installed the ford shock mounts from ORD.

I also have 1 inch zero rates front and back for a total of 5 inches of lift. I don't have a sway bar and I am considering putting the stock one back on with sway bar drop kit.

Truck can get into a sway back and forth situation if you are sawing in the steering wheel on the highway. I have hydro assist steering and it holds the wheels straight. when the truck rocks back and forth due to bumps in road you have a tendency to work the wheel back and forth just a little. Doing this can cause the truck to start a bad sway. It is not side to side but more of a front to back wiggle. If it starts to happen best thing to do is let go of the steering wheel and it stops. It is controllable and once you know how to drive the truck, it does not happen.

The problem is when you hit a bump and think you need to correct with the steering wheel, you don't, just keep the wheel in one place and the truck rocks a little and keeps going straight.
Without the hydro assist, It was a much bigger problem.

I have 39 inch tall by 11 wide tires on 16 inch rims, the large tire on the small rim creates some sway just in the tires. (yes, the front fenders are heavily modified but in a way it is hard to tell)

I thought the hydro assist would only be a help off road but it is a great help on the high way. The truck really drives straight even on bumpy roads, you can drive it with one finger and only minor corrections are needed in the steering wheel. It has zero bump steer with the hydro assist and thus you need no steering corrections when driving on rough roads.

I think they cross over hydro steering is one of my favorite changes in the truck. I will also add that a front selectable locker is probably the best off road accessory you can add to the truck. When all 4 tires are locked together it drives like a bulldozer. It only gets stuck if you high center the axles for which I have managed to do once already.
Rich
How do you plan to use the sway bar with cross over steering ?
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
I have cross over high steer, the sway bar connects just below my tie rod to the pads that mount the springs to the axle. There is enough room for the sway bar to connect and go under the steering rod and tie rod.

my issue would be if I could get the mount at the cross member to drop far enough.

my tie rod, steering linkage and hydro ram are all on top of the axle (above the springs) in line with each other the sway bar goes under these to the spring perches and runs parallel with he springs.

I don't have any good pics of this or I would post them
 

86m1028

Active member
1,687
16
38
Location
Murphy TEXAS
I have cross over high steer, the sway bar connects just below my tie rod to the pads that mount the springs to the axle. There is enough room for the sway bar to connect and go under the steering rod and tie rod.

my issue would be if I could get the mount at the cross member to drop far enough.

my tie rod, steering linkage and hydro ram are all on top of the axle (above the springs) in line with each other the sway bar goes under these to the spring perches and runs parallel with he springs.

I don't have any good pics of this or I would post them
I have crossover, hi steer & hydro assist (hi steer & hydro not installed yet) just not seeing it (sway bar) having enough room in there to not come into contact with something.
Post pics when you get a chance.
 

honda

Member
52
-1
6
Location
Southern Arizona
The d60 is a bolt in, I'd just get some new u bolts and studs. As far as brakes go I ended up buying a 1 ton master cylinder. The front and rear reservoirs are flipped but I was able to massage the stock lines a touch to swap them.

Was wondering if anyone has a part number for the 1 ton master cylinder which would go into the donee M1009? What are the drop dead issues about whether to install or not install the 1 ton master cylinder as opposed to keeping the OEM master cylinder unit on the M1009 when swapping out M1008 axles into a M1009? Are your thoughts different if the rear drums on the 14ff are swapped out for discs? As always - thanks in advance for everyones thoughts.
 

Russm

Active member
244
69
28
Location
Ft. Wainwright, AK
I kept original master cylinder. I did not have any issues between it and the 1 ton axles.
Also went with Cadillac disks for the rear. Did not get a proportioning valve.
I don't know what the disk vs drum difference feels like. Did not drive it with the drums just swapped straight to disk.

Whats a sway bar? You mean that metal thing i tossed in the garbage? No difference noted so far.

I have an oddball m1009 apparently. Really had a rough time finding the right Ujoint between rear drive shaft and 14b. My stock ujoint ended up fitting the 14b, which was weird. Make sure to measure yours.


Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Sharecropper

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,817
948
113
Location
Paris KY
I used Cadillac El Dorado calipers with emergency brakes on the rear. Stops on a dime going forward or backward even when wet. I threw my sway bar away to clear the crossover steering. Never had any problem.
 

Attachments

478
10
18
Location
Tucson AZ
Do you guys have any pointers on how to remove the existing spring perches on the 14b and how to choose location for the new ones?

Heres a pic of how I moved it into the carport to work on it.

IMG_5145.jpg
 

microjeep

In Memorial
In Memorial
850
466
63
Location
blairsville ga.
Steering bolts right up, no issues. You do need the D60F ubolt spring plates, the 10 bolt stuff won't swap over.



I think I have a set of these that Recovry said he didn't need, If that's true you can have them for shipping if you need them
 

Chaski

Active member
684
55
28
Location
Burney/CA
Pretty sure the answer is no. Parking brake cables have different part numbers on Rock Auto for the 14 bolt and 10 bolt axles.
 
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