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Dana 60 under a m37?

Capt.Marion

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Can be done. Shame to do it though. Those Dodge axles are tougher than anything. But if your original axles are shot...

EDIT: Screw the 6.2, go for a 4BT. It ain't worth the time to put a 6.2 in an M37.
 
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southdave

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I just got 3 hulls of trucks, missing alot of crap between all three I am 42 and I first saw them when I was 23 figured just build somthing useful out them. Worried it will look alittle goofy with wider axles
 

Capt.Marion

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Yeah, if you got a bunch of bodies and stuff laying around, I'd say go for it... I've seen one with 'em and it didn't look too bad at all. Had a 6AT Cummins stuffed in there too...
 

Eric's hifim37

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For all the work, if you just look'in for the M37 look just fit the body onto another frame and save yourself a bunch of work, I had a person inquire about my truck with a serous offer but I did'nt want to sell then I asked him, 'why this truck" and he said " I love the look of it" he had know idea of what it was like to drive one of these but wanted something he could drive on the freeway with A/C and power everything. I looked into buying a late model cummins powered Dodge W2500 and it would not be to bad to install the M37 body & bed then a M37 look'in bad boy cruiser !

P.S. I was going to mount the radiator under the bed with electric fans so no cooling issues with the diesel, the A/C condenser was going in the grill

Too cool but it costs buckeroos and in this wonderfull economy toys aren't priority right now but I'm sure the build day will come.

Eric..
 

nhdiesel

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Swapping axles is easy enough, so some searches on the web. I've read about lots of M37s getting newer axles. Along with newer axles and more street-friendly gears, you get front disk brakes and better brakes all around. A definite bonus if you plan to drive the truck at all. But for the weight of the truck, unless you happen to already have the axles kicking around, I'd look for a pair of 1-ton axles. Unless, of course, you are talking about that Dana 60 being for the front (in which case it IS a 1-ton axle).

Oh- and I second what Capt. said, I wouldn't make the effort to swap a 6.2 into anything. Underpowered and not exactly a durable motor. A 4bt puts out more torque and is extremely durable. Not to mention it should do at least 25mpg in that truck. This is coming from someone who gets nearly 30 mpg with one in a Durango, and I read about an early Dodge owner who gets over 25 in a Power Wagon. Even for a cheap diesel, I would bypass the 6.2, and look at...well, almost any other diesel.

I would love to find a mostly rust-free M37 (or Civy version) and swap my 4bt and NV-4500 into, along with modern 1-ton axles. I even have the entire drivetrain here, but there is no such thing as a rust-free early Dodge in New England. At least not one that is affordable.

Jim
 
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m376x6

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The stock brakes on an M37 do require more than the usual maintenance to keep them performing satisfactorily. They are undersized and basic in design compared to today's standards. I'm designing a full set of disc brakes for my 4X4 and have been busy on other projects but hope to have them finished by summers end. The stack axles are a real point of controversy among folks. Some folks seem to break an axle just looking at them. Some folks can light up the rear wheels pushing 42 inch 9.00-20 tires with a V8 in the trucks and not break anything. I'm running 11.00-16's on both trucks now. The space between the tires on the 6X6 never would allow 9.00-20's tires so I swapped the 4X4 over to 11.00-16's so both trucks matched. It's somewhat amazing to me what abuse I've done to the axles on my trucks over the years and have never broken an axle. I've destroyed (read exploded) locking hubs, but never broken either axles or driveshafts. I'm building a centered rear end out of a WC and will be putting disc brakes and an air locker in it for the 4X4 later this summer and have a pair of custom hardened rear axle shafts sitting in the shop ready to go in. Lockers are pretty hard on axles and the deal was good at the time so I figured it was good preventative medicine. I agree with the posts that maybe a powered rolling chassis would be best to sit a stripped out body on. A lot less work and modifications to swap everything out to a stock M37 Frame. I read where some guys want to get rid of the stock axles at any cost, even something as stupid as the guy who put Blazer axles under a deuce. The grass is always greener.....
 

nattieleather

Well-known member
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Cleveland, OH
Yes you can put new axles under a M37 but not with out some work. On the front axle you either have to shorten the axle to make it sit on the diff spring pearch or you have to move the front passinger spring out about 2 inches. On the rear it looks like a direct bolt in but it is not you have to move the pearches in about 5/8 of an inch. The advantage of new axles is stronger axles. I've seen guys bust an axle on a M37 trying to move on wet grass. Plus front disk breaks and more rim and tire selection to choose from. Here is a link to my stalled project. I show how I put axles from a M880 under my frame. Good luck with your truck. http://leathernaturally.com/m37project.htm
 

transman

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mildred Pa.
I have a m37 with a completely trashed body but the drivetrain, including the brakes are free and rolling. Be interested in buying some of your extrs sheetmetal or selling this chassis for your project.
 

southdave

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ripley, oh/TDY Lordstown,Oh
My intent, is to use GL procured crap, that I have or someone has laying around. for instance the axle out of M880, engine from a humvee, I got a tranny from 1009 ect.. but after a conversation with a buddy he offered up a frame rusted in half chevy (salt truck) he has at his farm. So I have to check it out, hope the components arn't too bad.
 
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southdave

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ripley, oh/TDY Lordstown,Oh
Update, I decided to go with 3/4 suburban trame it got 3:73 gears , I ll post some picks when I get home. Keep telling myself that I am not going to start anything till gosh darn M1009 is done.. did I mention I hate CUCV's
BTW I have laundry list crap off the top of my head I need:
number is some humvee rims and tires so I can move it about my yard
 

Tanner

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Raleigh, NC
Shame that you didn't keep the stock M37 axles - I've got a nice set of 5 Michelin 11.00x16 XZL tires for sale, already mounted on blasted & painted Budd rims & new tubes/flaps...

'Tanner'
 

southdave

Active member
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ripley, oh/TDY Lordstown,Oh
But 8-bolt rims don't fit a stock M37 axle too well... :D

'Tanner'
Ah.. Dana 60s lol thanks anway I am got some m998 rims when get closr I'll find some 36's or 37s

I decided to keep the old frame and fit the axle to it.

Driveline
turbo, 6.2/6.5- no bt4 to be had..besides I am cursed with cucvs.. and impulse buying from GL.
either a spicer 3053 or sm465 with a ranger gearover drive ( might have too many gear shift there)
dana 203 case

brakes are hydro boost out M 1008
as is the steering box..
 

jollyroger

Member
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Location
Centennial, Colorado
I have to say before you buy the 3/4 ton Suburban axles or any 3/4 ton Chevy axles make sure you are getting a Dana 60 front and not a Dana 44 front axle.

You said you will have a Dana 60 axle. The Dana 60 front Chevy axle only came factory under a 1 ton truck or the 5/4 ton military CUCV pickups.

The rear axle can be a Dana 60 in the 3/4 tons but it is most likely a 14 bolt GM rear end like in the CUCV's if it has full floater axles. If it has c-clip axles in the rear it is most likely the light duty 9 3/4 inch ring gear 14 bolt.
 

Elwenil

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Covington, VA
It was possible to get a front D60 in a GM 3/4 ton truck. It was even possible to get a GM 1 ton with a D44 front axle. Dodge is the same way.
 
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