Dashboard Problems

[jplace1011]

I recently took the dash out of my CUCV M1009. I replaced the circuit board behind the dash, painted the speedometer needle, polished the clear plastic cover, etc.

While I was putting it all back together, the plug that plugs into the back of the dashboard touched a piece of metal and sparked. I checked the fuse panel near the pedals and replaced 2-3 burned out fuses.

I pulled the instrument bezel out and replaced all of the old style bulbs in the dashboard with LED bulbs. I didn’t replace the Gen 1 & 2 bulbs, because those should remain for the circuit. I replaced some, cleaned, and bent all of the sockets before hand.

I cleaned all of the contact points (w/an eraser) on the plug that goes into the back of the dash. I plugged it back in but things aren’t how they should be.

The bulbs that Do light up are: Gen 1 & Gen 2, the turn signal blinkers and the lights that light the dashboard. The Voltage Meter and Climate Control bulbs Do light up. I doubt that matters?

The High Beam Lights will only work if I loosen the bulb, not when I tighten it all the way. This is a problem because it’s too loose and the bulb will easily fall out. The Engine Coolant Temperature Light (that only turns on if the temp goes High not during Strat up right?), Low Coolant Light (is that supposed to turn on during start up?), Brake Light (I tested it by engaging the E Brake), Seat Belt light and buzzer, all don’t turn on.

Am I missing something? Is there a relay or hidden fuses I don’t know about? My buddy Johnny has said it could be the holes where the bulbs and sockets go in can get damaged over time and the connection/contact points go bad.

I appreciate any input or help anyone can offer. I am just so lost and confused at this point.

Thank you! Thank You!


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[Mullaney]

I recently took the dash out of my CUCV M1009. I replaced the circuit board behind the dash, painted the speedometer needle, polished the clear plastic cover, etc.

While I was putting it all back together, the plug that plugs into the back of the dashboard touched a piece of metal and sparked. I checked the fuse panel near the pedals and replaced 2-3 burned out fuses.

I pulled the instrument bezel out and replaced all of the old style bulbs in the dashboard with LED bulbs. I didn’t replace the Gen 1 & 2 bulbs, because those should remain for the circuit. I replaced some, cleaned, and bent all of the sockets before hand.

I cleaned all of the contact points (w/an eraser) on the plug that goes into the back of the dash. I plugged it back in but things aren’t how they should be.

The bulbs that Do light up are: Gen 1 & Gen 2, the turn signal blinkers and the lights that light the dashboard. The Voltage Meter and Climate Control bulbs Do light up. I doubt that matters?

The High Beam Lights will only work if I loosen the bulb, not when I tighten it all the way. This is a problem because it’s too loose and the bulb will easily fall out. The Engine Coolant Temperature Light (that only turns on if the temp goes High not during Strat up right?), Low Coolant Light (is that supposed to turn on during start up?), Brake Light (I tested it by engaging the E Brake), Seat Belt light and buzzer, all don’t turn on.

Am I missing something? Is there a relay or hidden fuses I don’t know about? My buddy Johnny has said it could be the holes where the bulbs and sockets go in can get damaged over time and the connection/contact points go bad.

I appreciate any input or help anyone can offer. I am just so lost and confused at this point.

Thank you! Thank You!


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.
I am hoping that @cucvrus has the answer that you need @jplace1011 .

The cleaning that you did with the eraser in the sockets will definitely clean up the corrosion that happens over the years. Adding a tiny bit anti-oxidation paste in those sockets will keep it clean and under the dash by the emergency brake peddle too.

 

[Barrman]

That flexible printed circuit board needs a little voodoo or black magic mixed in to work correctly.

Make sure all the tabs for the big plug are straight, in their lane and clean.
You wrote you cleaned everything else.
Use a Power Probe or any 12 volt power supply to test every singe circuit and installed light bulb before you put it back in the truck.
LED lights are polarity sensitive. Make sure positive is positive on the bulb.
Once every light works on the bench. Make sure they are tight and test again.
A Power Probe or volt meter can be used to check the contacts on the big plug. ALT lights, gauge power, blinkers, back lights, idiot lights and high beam can all be tested on that plug for voltage. You can even check continuity to the fuel level sender in the tank with an Ohm meter.
If the pins on the plug don’t check out. Go back to the fuse panel and test every single fuse on both tabs.
Once both sides are totally perfect. You get to do a chant, cross your toes and try to plug the plug back in. Make sure it is straight and seats all the way.

 

[jplace1011]

That flexible printed circuit board needs a little voodoo or black magic mixed in to work correctly.

Make sure all the tabs for the big plug are straight, in their lane and clean.
You wrote you cleaned everything else.
Use a Power Probe or any 12 volt power supply to test every singe circuit and installed light bulb before you put it back in the truck.
LED lights are polarity sensitive. Make sure positive is positive on the bulb.
Once every light works on the bench. Make sure they are tight and test again.
A Power Probe or volt meter can be used to check the contacts on the big plug. ALT lights, gauge power, blinkers, back lights, idiot lights and high beam can all be tested on that plug for voltage. You can even check continuity to the fuel level sender in the tank with an Ohm meter.
If the pins on the plug don’t check out. Go back to the fuse panel and test every single fuse on both tabs.
Once both sides are totally perfect. You get to do a chant, cross your toes and try to plug the plug back in. Make sure it is straight and seats all the way.

Hey Man! Thanks for the info, I’ll try your suggestions. Rick do you have any ideas/suggestions?

I’ll report back!


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[jplace1011]

Hey Man! Thanks for the info, I’ll try your suggestions. ROCKNUS is actually Johnny who I mentioned before. Small world huh?

I’ll report back!


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You said make sure positive is positive on the bulb. I feel silly, but how do I check that exactly?


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[jplace1011]

You said make sure positive is positive on the bulb. I feel silly, but how do I check that exactly?


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I was able to find a Used Insteument Bezel. I think it’s safe to say mine is on its way out the door. I’ve had to Gorilla Glue it more than once and those holes for the sockets seem to be worn out. I’ll report back once I’ve got the used bezel and if things still don’t work I’ll test the wiring, etc. Who knows trying to just swap out the bulbs could open a bigger box of issues?


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[Barrman]

There is a single ground path for the entire gauge cluster. All the rest are positive paths. If you are putting power to a circuit and the light isn't lighting. Verify voltage at the light contact and reverse the light bulb and try again.

 

[jplace1011]

There is a single ground path for the entire gauge cluster. All the rest are positive paths. If you are putting power to a circuit and the light isn't lighting. Verify voltage at the light contact and reverse the light bulb and try again.

Ahh, ok will do. Thanks for the heads up. I’m still learning!


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[jplace1011]

There is a single ground path for the entire gauge cluster. All the rest are positive paths. If you are putting power to a circuit and the light isn't lighting. Verify voltage at the light contact and reverse the light bulb and try again.

You were right about turning the bulbs. I got many to work after removing them and turning them 180 degrees and reinserting. The Seatbelt light now turns on (still no sound not sure why), the Brake Light works and so does the Low Coolant Light.

That High Beam light is being a real pain. It only works if you twist it partially, not when it’s twisted all the way. I may end up taping it in place.

I’ll keep at it and report back. Thank you for the heads up.


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[Barrman]

Very carefully pry the little contacts on the plastic bulb holder out just a hair.

 

[jplace1011]

Very carefully pry the little contacts on the plastic bulb holder out just a hair.

Good idea. I pried the contacts and it is better. It doesn’t lock, but almost. I’ll try a little more prying, if it doesn’t work I’ll tape it in place. I’ll report back.


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[jplace1011]

I recently took the dash out of my CUCV M1009. I replaced the circuit board behind the dash, painted the speedometer needle, polished the clear plastic cover, etc.

While I was putting it all back together, the plug that plugs into the back of the dashboard touched a piece of metal and sparked. I checked the fuse panel near the pedals and replaced 2-3 burned out fuses.

I pulled the instrument bezel out and replaced all of the old style bulbs in the dashboard with LED bulbs. I didn’t replace the Gen 1 & 2 bulbs, because those should remain for the circuit. I replaced some, cleaned, and bent all of the sockets before hand.

I cleaned all of the contact points (w/an eraser) on the plug that goes into the back of the dash. I plugged it back in but things aren’t how they should be.

The bulbs that Do light up are: Gen 1 & Gen 2, the turn signal blinkers and the lights that light the dashboard. The Voltage Meter and Climate Control bulbs Do light up. I doubt that matters?

The High Beam Lights will only work if I loosen the bulb, not when I tighten it all the way. This is a problem because it’s too loose and the bulb will easily fall out. The Engine Coolant Temperature Light (that only turns on if the temp goes High not during Strat up right?), Low Coolant Light (is that supposed to turn on during start up?), Brake Light (I tested it by engaging the E Brake), Seat Belt light and buzzer, all don’t turn on.

Am I missing something? Is there a relay or hidden fuses I don’t know about? My buddy Johnny has said it could be the holes where the bulbs and sockets go in can get damaged over time and the connection/contact points go bad.

I appreciate any input or help anyone can offer. I am just so lost and confused at this point.

Thank you! Thank You!


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The 4 Wheel Drive Light is the only one that won’t turn on. I changed the bulb twice, put a new socket in and it still wouldn’t work.

I took a look underneath at the Transfer Case itself, looking for a sensor. Sure enough I found it, with 2 wires attached to it. It all looks fairly new. There’s a spot in one of the wires where it’s been crimped. I ended up finding damage to both wires. Places where the insulation is missing. I’m thinking this may be damage caused from heat. The wires are way too long and dangling too, that doesn’t help.

One of the two plugs looks like it may be rusted. This may have been a result of driving on wet roads and from the oil leaks I’ve had.

I cleaned all the wires and checked for any more damaged spots in the wire, nothing.

Tomorrow I’ll disconnect the batteries and clean the plugs. I’ll also file the rusted side just a tad. I have some electronics cleaning spray that I’ll hit the plugs with. I’ll cut the wires where they’re damaged, then crimp them back together and cover them with shrink wrap. I’ll wrap it all up tightly with electrical tape.

Is there anything I might be missing in all of this? I’ve been using process of elimination. Has anyone had a similar problem?


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[jplace1011]

The 4 Wheel Drive Light is the only one that won’t turn on. I changed the bulb twice, put a new socket in and it still wouldn’t work.

I took a look underneath at the Transfer Case itself, looking for a sensor. Sure enough I found it, with 2 wires attached to it. It all looks fairly new. There’s a spot in one of the wires where it’s been crimped. I ended up finding damage to both wires. Places where the insulation is missing. I’m thinking this may be damage caused from heat. The wires are way too long and dangling too, that doesn’t help.

One of the two plugs looks like it may be rusted. This may have been a result of driving on wet roads and from the oil leaks I’ve had.

I cleaned all the wires and checked for any more damaged spots in the wire, nothing.

Tomorrow I’ll disconnect the batteries and clean the plugs. I’ll also file the rusted side just a tad. I have some electronics cleaning spray that I’ll hit the plugs with. I’ll cut the wires where they’re damaged, then crimp them back together and cover them with shrink wrap. I’ll wrap it all up tightly with electrical tape.

Is there anything I might be missing in all of this? I’ve been using process of elimination. Has anyone had a similar problem?


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The 4 Wheel Drive Light finally lights up. I ended up replacing the Sensor and the Plug with American made Standard Parts brand from O’Reily’s. I wrapped it all up in good electrical tape and hung it up with a zip tie to prevent any damage over time from heat from the transmission, etc.

I also discovered the Water in Fuel Light kept flashing On and Off, especially when I started moving, stopped and while turning. Well the wires to the sensor were damaged and covered in tape. There was also a crappy version of a crimped wire there already (pics below). I cut, crimped and taped them up and it seems to have stopped turning On and Off.

Now I have to see if I can put it all back together. I’m waiting for a broken plastic tab piece, for the plastic instruments bezel, to cure after I gorilla glued it.


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