Deuce help!!!

[jluv1185]

As you know i just got a deuce. I was planning on driving it to an event tomorrow, so i figured i'd take it out for one last test run today. Everything went great. When i got back we were doing a lil touch up paint on the front rims and thats when the surprise happened...The passenger side hub was sooo hot after only a 10 min run, it boiled the paint! I called lilbob for help, and in a few min he was there. We took everything apart repacked the bearings, and adjusted the brakes perfectly. Which werent dragging but ever so slightly. Got her back together, drove it for another 10 min and tada! The SAME THING! HOT! Can anyone give me any advise on this please. I made a promise to bring my truck for a good cause and would like to keep that promise.

Thank you,
Justin

 

[ARYankee]

If the bearings were in good shape and all lubed up, I would say it's a brake dragging. It may not be fully disengaging after you use it. I'm sure someone with more expertise will chime in.

 

[63sierra10]

I agree, check the brakes for return. It may be weak springs. Also check the bearing preload again.

 

[jluv1185]

I agree, check the brakes for return. It may be weak springs. Also check the bearing preload again.

With just the hub on i applied the brakes, and let off. It grabbed and let go as it should.

 

[hoop]

Brakes.

 

[jimm1009]

As bad as this sounds there is a grease formulated for brakes components.
No not the shoes but the pivot points and friction areas of the adjusting cams, etc.
It is important to have these all cleaned and lubricated as well as having reliable retraction springs.
You probably know this but I thought I should pass it along anyway;
Freshly packed bearings should be torqued down with the hub is rotating each time torque wrench is applied to the nuts. Initial torque of inside nut is 50 ft. lbs. (600 in. lbs.) while spinning hub, back off 1/4 turn (90 degrees rotation of socket). Tabbed washer goes on and then outer nut is 150 ft. obs. (1800 in. lbs.) If you don';t back off 1/4 turn there is enough slop in the threads on the spindle and adjusting nuts that you will tighten up quite a bit when torquing the outer nut. Ref. TM9-2320-361-20 paper page 9-11.
lilbob knows the brake routine but I'll quote that too. TM 9-2320-361-20 paper page 8-22 & -23. .010 gap at top two checks of 11 & 1 o'clock and .020 gap at the bottom two positions of 7 & 5 o'clock. I do this with the wheels off so that I can "feel" it a little better.
If you can't get good springs perhaps allow a slightly larger gap for this one time event.
Pivot points on the brakes is key as if they are sticky the brakes will still not work right.
I would suggest pulling the pivot bolts completely out and cleaning them as well as the holes in the shoes. I used brake component grease here is a very small amount and it does help. Lube bolts before reinstalling and washers too. This can help overall performance quite a bit. Upper attaching hardware can be lubed spareingly as well. "Friction is only needed where the shoes hit the drum" is what an extremely experienced mechanic told me 40 years ago.
Post for more help and offer l'bob a beer for me.
jimm1009 in Lafayette area.

 

[AceHigh]

Also if you go for a short drive you can tell if it is the outer part of the drum heating up or the inner (hub) area. I would go for a short trip checking every little bit and see what is heating. After a few stops if the brakes release properly the drum will be the same as the others, hub cool.

Keep checking as you go and you will quickly find where the problem is.

 

[jluv1185]

Also if you go for a short drive you can tell if it is the outer part of the drum heating up or the inner (hub) area. I would go for a short trip checking every little bit and see what is heating. After a few stops if the brakes release properly the drum will be the same as the others, hub cool.

Keep checking as you go and you will quickly find where the problem is.

Its definatly the outer, if you stick your finger between the rim and the hub from the outside it will burn you.

 

[WillWagner]

The axle isn't engaged is it?

 

[jimm1009]

AceHigh, without hijacking, what is the point of outer versues inner?
Is this an attempt to see if inner or outer bearing is failing or is this a sign of another problem?
Trying to learn as I go too.
jimm1009

 

[WillWagner]

Jim, both should run about the same temp. If one is hotter than the other, there is an issue somewhere. It is just a matter of finding it.
When did you promise the truck? I'd just slam a set of bearings in it.

 

[jimm1009]

Does anyone know if he is fixed and going?
Inquiring minds (and almost neigbors) need to know.
I'm only 90 miles away.
jimm1009

 

[AceHigh]

AceHigh, without hijacking, what is the point of outer versues inner?
Is this an attempt to see if inner or outer bearing is failing or is this a sign of another problem?
Trying to learn as I go too.
jimm1009

Sorry, bad communications! I am referring to outer brake drum vs inner hub area, to see if it is dragging brakes vs. bearing problem.

 

[Oilleaker1]

If the bearings and races were fine, then it's probably the shoes not releasing after a while. Either the wheel cylinder is gummed and sticking or the brake line flex hose is collapsing and not letting fluid back. Drive it until it's getting hot, jack it up and see if it turns by hand or is tight. My two cents from the school of hard knocks! John

 

[jimm1009]

I just talked to Justin and he is rolling for now on a temporary fix and will make permanent repairs when he returns and time allows.
He is showing his "O.D. Green" off to some older Vets and that is really good stuff! They are having a blast and our Vets deserve no less than the very best we can give them. God bless'em all!

jimm1009

 

[jluv1185]

The axle isn't engaged is it?

No it isn't.

 

[jluv1185]

I just talked to Justin and he is rolling for now on a temporary fix and will make permanent repairs when he returns and time allows.
He is showing his "O.D. Green" off to some older Vets and that is really good stuff! They are having a blast and our Vets deserve no less than the very best we can give them. God bless'em all!

jimm1009

Thanks for all the help guys! Also thank you jimm1009 for calling and checking on me. Its nice to know how great you guys are when a fellow member is in a bind!

Ok here is the skinny...the left front brake was locking up. I went to the autoparts store and bought a brass union and plug that fit onto the hard line. I capped it off drove it around and booyah! Problem solved! So this means i was down 1 front brake. I just took it easy stayed far back off of everyone and she worked great. She even stopped better than i thought she would. I made it to the museum, showed her off, met a few wonderful people, and had a great time! I took it easy on the way home and just got back a few minutes ago. So now im in the market for the soft line, and might as well get the hard one too. Im going to save my invention in the tool box...just in case.

Thanks again!
Justin

 

[davidkroberts]

glad you figured out what it was. Do you have the union sizes and plug size handy for when i need one and do a search here? Im sure its in the manuals somewhere but they are harder to find specifics in sometimes than it is to find an honest politician.

Was figuring it was a brake nothing else really does things like that if it isnt a bearing issue.

 

[jluv1185]

glad you figured out what it was. Do you have the union sizes and plug size handy for when i need one and do a search here? Im sure its in the manuals somewhere but they are harder to find specifics in sometimes than it is to find an honest politician.

Was figuring it was a brake nothing else really does things like that if it isnt a bearing issue.

Thanks, 1/4'' brass inverted flare fitting (union), 3/16''-1/4'' brass female to male inv flare adapter, and a 3/16'' brass pipe plug inv flare. All fine thread! Bought it all at orielys autoparts, in the brake section. (The brake hard line is a 1/4'' male, also fine thread)

P.s. i only bought the adapter cause they didnt have a 1/4'' plug...

 

[frodobaggins]

Thanks, 1/4'' brass inverted flare fitting (union), 3/16''-1/4'' brass female to male inv flare adapter, and a 3/16'' brass pipe plug inv flare. All fine thread! Bought it all at orielys autoparts, in the brake section. (The brake hard line is a 1/4'' male, also fine thread)

P.s. i only bought the adapter cause they didnt have a 1/4'' plug...

When you can, post pics