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deuce hub flip

knx873

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If you were going to cut and weld the rims like the 12" example could you use the other side of the rim you cut and not the ring side to get rid of the split rim idea? Would a tire shop be able to install the new tires?
 

rdixiemiller

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I wouldn't want to try that. You have to use a tube and flap in a tube type tire. It would be a real bear getting them in. Also, tubeless wheels have a "drop center" in the middle of the wheel rim where the tire bead drops in when getting the other 1/2 of the bead over the rim. If you've ever changed a tire out at home with a set of tire spoons you will know what I am talking about.
Bottom line? I don't think it is practical to try what you are talking about.
 

BFR

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Gerhard, wouldn't you have to remove the center from a standard deuce rim and put it back together with the dish opposite from stock in order to build this wheel?


Would it be worth it to do the dish flip and build this wheel?

You would end up with wheels that resemble stock and all the rings woulod be on the inside on a singled deuce.
 

rizzo

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I don't think that this one would work. I would guess the tire would still be too close to the drag link, even though having a wider rim would move the tread out a little. maybe
 

gringeltaube

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sermis said:
OK on the modified 12" rim, will 16.00 20's work and clear the front. 3-4" lift with 3" body lift.
That's what Hot Rod Deuce lifted his to run 16.00s. Let's ask him about dimensions of his custom wheels. I guess they are only 10" wide.
 

gringeltaube

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BFR said:
Gerhard, wouldn't you have to remove the center from a standard deuce rim and put it back together with the dish opposite from stock in order to build this wheel?
Yes. It is not so difficult with the older style riveted wheels. A friend of mine did it to run 14.00s. With the track width increased 7 1/2" it looks OK at the rear but at front they stick to far out, at least for my taste.

Would it be worth it to do the dish flip and build this wheel?
I don't think so. That would leave you with only 4 1/4" backspace!

You would end up with wheels that resemble stock and all the rings woulod be on the inside on a singled deuce
Nope, the left side of the drawings (where the backspace is measured) is the inner side.
 

gringeltaube

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rizzo said:
I thought the 1600's and the 15.5/80 R20's used a 10inch wide rim
Correct, but those tires sure are wide enough for 12". A few examples: IFA W50: 16-20 tires on 20x13 rims. UNIMOG: 14.5R20 or 365/80R20 on 20x11" or 20x12", 405/70R20 on 20x12" or 20x13".
 

gringeltaube

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rizzo said:
I don't think that this one would work. I would guess the tire would still be too close to the drag link, even though having a wider rim would move the tread out a little. maybe
The tread centerline moves out exactly 2 1/4".
 

m.walker

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So why not get some dayton ? wheels with no centers , cut off the bead and weld it to where the bead ring goes on the stock deuce wheel and end up with as wide a rim as you want !
 

houdel

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gringeltaube said:
rizzo said:
I don't think that this one would work. I would guess the tire would still be too close to the drag link, even though having a wider rim would move the tread out a little. maybe
The tread centerline moves out exactly 2 1/4".
Gerhard - Would 15:50s on a 10" rim with stock M35 backspace clear the drag link? Or would you still have to reduce the backspace to clear the drag link?
 

sermis

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I am running 15.5's on the front with stock rim. I added the 3" to the outside of the rim. No rubbing issues yet but I have not put it in a bind off road.
 

gringeltaube

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houdel said:
... would 15:50s on a 10" rim with stock M35 backspace clear the drag link? Or would you still have to reduce the backspace to clear the drag link?
They will rub if left spring bottoms out while steering hard to the right.
The drawing intends to show a comparison of tires/wheels and the relative position of the drag link at normal suspension height. The critical distance is reduced to less than 1 inch.
One option to avoid interference would be adjusting the stop screw of the RH steering knuckle.
 

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