Directional Signal Question

[houdel]

I noticed an oddity with my directional signals the other day. In order to get it registered, I needed to have a LEO do a vehicle equipment check. He was doing the inspection, checking the front lights & directional signals with the engine running, signals were working fine. He moved to the rear and I decided to turn the engine off so I could hear him. So I turned the accessory switch off, pulled out the engine stop and turned the accessory switch back on again.

The LEO asked for the left directional signal, I turned the signal lever down and nothing happened! No left signal, no right signal, no indicator light flashing. Flipped the lever up and down, wiggled the harness connector, nothing!

LEO asked for brake lights. I pressed on the brakes, stop lights came on, and the directional signals started working again! Passed my inspection OK, but this has me wondering -- Is this normal practice that the directional signals won't work after turning the accessory switch on until AFTER the stop lights are activated, or is this something that needs fixing?

 

[SixBuy]

Lee,
Just a guess but I'd take a look at the light switch. You didn't say if it was in Service Drive or Stop Light but those are the only two positions that power is supplied to the Turn signals. Could be the engine vibrations were enough to keep the switch contacts touching... And you're asking if something is NORMAL on a deuce ??? LOL !
A clue would be whether the voltmeter or fuel gauge were registering when the accessory switch was on and the turn signals in-op. Probably won't happen again until the officer says make it work!
Good luck

 

[houdel]

I solved my problem, it was apparently a bad ground to the steering column. My directional signal switch is fastened to the column with a big radiator hose clamp. I disconnected the wiring harness, removed the switch, wire brushed the grounding contacts on the underside of the switch and the column where the switch is mounted, reinstalled the switch and harness and everything worked properly.

Then just for good measure I took it all apart again and lightly coated the bottom of the switch and the column where the switch is mounted with copper filled anti sieze compound. I also put a small amount of the compound on a cotton swab ("Q-tip") and lightly coated each of the connector pins in the wiring harness, being carefull to not slop any on the base where the connector pins are attached, to prevent any possible electrical shorts.

I figure the anti sieze compound will prevent any further corrosion of the surfaces, plus the copper filling should insure better electrical conductivity. I use the same copper filled anti sieze compound on all my electrical connectors whenever I have a need to take them apart. I use a cotton swab to apply a thin coat of the compound to the inside of the female connector, coating both the pin and the inside of the rubber sleeve. It make the connector a lot easier to disassemble in the future and should insure a 100% reliable electrical connection.

I had a similar problem with my oil pressure guage, it was acting erractically and reading much lower than my mechanical guage. I removed the guage from the IP, cleaned all the grounding contacts and put a light film of the compound on all the contacts and on both electrical connectors to the guage. Now it works perfectly & reads exactly the same oil pressure as the mechanical guage!

Thanks to all who took the time to respond to my post and offer your suggestions!

 

[Elwenil]

Get some dielectric grease. It's a clear non-conductive grease made especially for sealing electrical connections and preventing corrosion.

 

[SixBuy]

A bit pricey, but a product called DeOxit does a good job of cleaning up electrical contacts before you seal them up with grease.

 

[cranetruck]

I like to get to the bottom of things (bottom=ground), no pun intended. Yeah, right..

Here is the wiring diagram for the flasher circuit.

The ground connection on the steering column is only needed for the green light to work. The flasher will work if you hold the control switch in your hand w/o any connection to the steering column at all.

The ground wire from the flasher unit itself is the important one. The flasher circuit is not grounded to case internally, but must have the "C" wire connected to ground.

About making ground connections: Start with clean surfaces. Use toothed washers and tighten to spec torque for the bolt size in question. The metal to metal contact will make what is called a "gas tight" connection and will last for many many years. Crimp connections are examples of this type.

If the surface is painted, make sure you use hardened internal/external toothed washers. They will penetrate the paint for a gas tight connection.
Paint and/or anti corrosive chemicals may be used but only after the connection is made.

Using a hose clamp on a painted surface to make an electrical ground connection can never be good. If the green light is important (I have mine disconnected and use the buzzer instead), run a wire with a ring terminal from one of the screws on the switch assembly to a good ground and terminate it properly.

 

[houdel]

Bjorn - Interesting thought, a turn signal buzzer. After decades of being accustomed to self canceling directions signals, I have been known to drive for a considerable distance with my turn signal still flashing after making a turn.

Which wire did you tap into for your buzzer, and what do you use for the buzzer?

The "radiator hose clamp" ground connection was not my idea, that is the way the truck came from the DRMO.

 

[Boatcarpenter]

Check this link halfway down the page
http://www.mayapplebrandstedt.com/maybrand4.html

 

[cranetruck]

This is probably the easiest way to connect the buzzer.

 

[houdel]

Bjorn - Thanks!